Soldering Guard?

Joined
Aug 31, 1999
Messages
716
I need some tips for soldering a Mike Norris stainless damascus guard to a 1095M blade. I have low temp solder and flux. Where should I start heating? Any tricks to keeping the heat from moving up the blade? Any tips for keeping the blade and guard from undue clean up? Do I need to etch the gaurd before I solder it? Can I etch it some after soldering?

Its a nice piece so far and I hate to ruin it on this step. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Thanks George and Dave. Dave, I read Bruce's tutorial and that's pretty much the way it has worked for me on past projects. On my current project I have the damascus guard that would seem to limit the amount of refinishing I could do. Also the guard is a stainless mix and I don't know if this will complicate the job. I addition, the blade has a nice double temper line that I want to preserve.

Any other tips? Anyone.
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Andrew, I can dig it. Out of general compulsiveness I've always used a heat sink paste called Thermo Sink or something like that I get from TKS. There's a caveat on the tube to the effect not to leave it on your metal too long, so you may not want to risk your temper line.

But I suggested it because in a conversation with Cory McAlpin, he described his method of soldering, and here's how I remember it. Cory, slap me if I get it wrong!

Set the blade in your vice tip up (getting the guard to stay in position is left to your ingenuity), and heat from the *top* while adding solder from underneath... (Yes, this is contrary to every other suggestion, but Cory does things like that and they always turn out just fine, which I'm sure you've seen.) Since the solder will travel toward the heat, it'll wick right into your joint and you won't have all the over solder.

That's the theory, and I've seen Cory's results and will stand by em. Personally, soldering has been so traumatic for me it's easier on my psyche to just make a solderless joint.
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Before I turned chicken I did it pretty much like Bruce, only I had a terrycloth rag ready, and wiped the extra solder off the blade and guard while it was still molten. Then it was a snap (relatively speaking) to buff the remaining thin film off with my Dremel and its red compound.

Dave
 
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