What kind of solder do you guys use for soldering guards. I have not done a knife with a guard yet but have heard that some guys have had problems with corrossion leaking out later on due to the flux. Does anyone know what I am talking about? Vaquero57
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soldering guards
- Thread starter vaquero57
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 13, 1998
- Messages
- 2,598
The best solder on the market for guards is TIX. They come in small 1/32" x 2.5" sticks, and they make a liquid flux that makes the solder flow very well.
Its melting temp is 235 f. This is relatively low, so its not as much a risk in ruining the temper in your blade etc... It cleans up very well, and stays brite.
You will still have troubles with flux causing corrosion. You must neatralize it, get it all out. What i do after everything is cool to touch is use a slurry of baking soda, rinsing, repeating 4 or 5 times, then i spray with amonia, rinse, then use the baking soda again, then saturate with WD 40.
You can get TIX solder and flux, plus alot of good knifemaking supplies from Uncle Al. His # is 870 642 7643.
Thanks, Matt
------------------
"Never hit a man unless you must, but if you must, knock him down" Teddy Roosevelt.
www.lameyknives.com
Its melting temp is 235 f. This is relatively low, so its not as much a risk in ruining the temper in your blade etc... It cleans up very well, and stays brite.
You will still have troubles with flux causing corrosion. You must neatralize it, get it all out. What i do after everything is cool to touch is use a slurry of baking soda, rinsing, repeating 4 or 5 times, then i spray with amonia, rinse, then use the baking soda again, then saturate with WD 40.
You can get TIX solder and flux, plus alot of good knifemaking supplies from Uncle Al. His # is 870 642 7643.
Thanks, Matt
------------------
"Never hit a man unless you must, but if you must, knock him down" Teddy Roosevelt.
www.lameyknives.com
- Joined
- Nov 13, 1998
- Messages
- 2,598
the flux is corrosive, you must neatralize that effect. this is what the scrubbing with baking soda, then rinse, then amonia, then baking soda etc...
I do it 3 or 4 times, may be overkill, but its worked well so far.
------------------
"Never hit a man unless you must, but if you must, knock him down" Teddy Roosevelt.
www.lameyknives.com
I do it 3 or 4 times, may be overkill, but its worked well so far.
------------------
"Never hit a man unless you must, but if you must, knock him down" Teddy Roosevelt.
www.lameyknives.com
vacquero57, if there's something other left between the guard and the blade than solder you've done something wrong and should start over. If you have flux trapped under the solder in this area you can't neutralize it, because you can't reach it. But chances of having flux trapped in a completely closed, soldered area are very low plus there will be no oxygene allowing corrosion.
Shop tip: use a small chisel made from soft stainless steel to remove excess solder from steel guards, a copper chisel on brass, bronze and nickel silver guards.
Achim
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=575309
Shop tip: use a small chisel made from soft stainless steel to remove excess solder from steel guards, a copper chisel on brass, bronze and nickel silver guards.
Achim
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=575309