I'm fairly new here and am proabley asking a stupid question :jerkit: but then if I don't ask I will never learn except by screwing up again...Soldering 440c stainless blade to nickel guard, can't seem to get what I consider a good joint. I have done several other knives and never failed to get a fair joint but for some reason I've failed twice and don't want to heat again, fear loosing hardening. Done a little reasearch and find cleaning is really important with the 440c. I plan to clean with some Brownells blueing remover (phosphoric acid) before next try. My research says acid base flux is way to go. Any suggestions as to brand or type, etc, or other suggestions?
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Soldering Stainless
- Thread starter Simi2_99
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 28, 1999
- Messages
- 1,563
Eutectic brand solder.....if Koval's is back in business...you can get it from them.
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2002
- Messages
- 12,297
What Greg said :thumbup: K&G finishing supplies as it. It's the only thing that works on stainless for me.
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2002
- Messages
- 2,088
Stainless parts should be tinned prior to assembly. using a silver bearing
solder like Stay Brite, and an acid flux like Koval has/had.The Stay Brite
flux works, but not as well.
The part should be heated slowly, using a propane torch, and the lowest flame you can get by with. Use a 1\16" rod with a drop of solder on the tip
to apply flux and solder when the part is heated enough to melt solder.
When the entire surface to be bonded is coated with solder, remove the heat
and, using an old towel or brush, quickly remove the excess solder. Allow to
cool to room temp (do not cool in water), then wash with clean water.
Once tinned and cleaned, the parts can be assembled under heat.
Additional solder will be needed, but this time use a rosin flux, instead
of acid.
The reason for using rosin flux for final assembly, is that acid flux can
leave minute pockets of flux between guard and tang, and eat it's way
out months or years later. Rosin flux doesn't.
This process takes practice, is time consuming, and works.
solder like Stay Brite, and an acid flux like Koval has/had.The Stay Brite
flux works, but not as well.
The part should be heated slowly, using a propane torch, and the lowest flame you can get by with. Use a 1\16" rod with a drop of solder on the tip
to apply flux and solder when the part is heated enough to melt solder.
When the entire surface to be bonded is coated with solder, remove the heat
and, using an old towel or brush, quickly remove the excess solder. Allow to
cool to room temp (do not cool in water), then wash with clean water.
Once tinned and cleaned, the parts can be assembled under heat.
Additional solder will be needed, but this time use a rosin flux, instead
of acid.
The reason for using rosin flux for final assembly, is that acid flux can
leave minute pockets of flux between guard and tang, and eat it's way
out months or years later. Rosin flux doesn't.
This process takes practice, is time consuming, and works.
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2003
- Messages
- 3,258
I have been able to successfully use staybrite solder and flux on stainless. Typically for me, when I solder a guard it is stainless - to a stainless blade. I just find that a close joint, super-clean surfaces, even slow heat, and drag out the solder joint with an xacto knife works for me. while hot, a damp cloth to pull off any cruddy solder and flux.
Thanks to all for the replies. I'm thinking that the old "cleanliness is next to godliness" is proabley the solution. I had done other stainless alloys with success, and maybe the problem is the 440C to nickel. If additional clean up dosen't work, I will go the extra step and tin as per Russ's suggestion..Again, thanks all......
