soldering!?!

I'm having trouble soldering my brass tangs on.I Read through some of the forums on soldering. It's possible to get it to hot? How do you tell when the material is hot enough to let the solder flow? I'm soldering on to a high carbon steel, power hacksaw blades. Will that make a difference? I'm fairly sure the surface is clean, I use a "stay clean" flux. Should I use something else? I'm also using an oxy assist on my butane torch. Well any help here will be muchly appreciated.

Thanks Dave


 
Joined
Oct 4, 1999
Messages
551
David,

Make sure that both pieces are clean before you apply flux. Wash them in a degreaser (I've heard Dawn dishwashing detergent works good)and try not to get the salt and oil from your hands back onto the metal.

If you are using brass for tangs it might be better to braze them onto the steel.
You might ought to try welding mild steel on for the tang. This could be a lot stronger than brass.

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If a man can keep alert and imaginative, an error is a possibility, a chance at something new; to him, wandering and wondering are a part of the same process. He is most mistaken, most in error, whenever he quits exploring.

William Least Heat Moon
 
I know you weren't looking for questions, but I was wondering what kind of a knife you were making? Did you have to reharden the blades so they're not so springy and the backs aren't so soft?

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Fix it right the first time, use Baling Wire !
 
do you mean brass guard-rather than brass tang as you have it written..???? yes you can get it too hot...you want to slowly heat it until it gets to the point where the solder melts and begins to flow well..i use a pointed 3/32" ss rod to move it around...in the crack at the juncture...and keep fluxing any spot where the solder doesnt want to stick....when it starts flowing take the heat away until it stops flowing and then slowly and evenly reheat.. the solder will also flow towards the heat.. it isnt easy and takes plenty of practice.. i know several VERY WELL KNOWN knifemakers who never could get it right and you will never see a soldered guard on one of their knives....only pinned ones...

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
i like your idea with the stainless rod. i have a tungsten electrod that would suit the job perfectly. i use metal bond epoxy and pins for bolsters, but i always solder guards. it does take alot of practice, but you'll get it.
 
I'm one of the makers Tom is talking about, but not one of the well known ones!! I realy have no trouble soldering, I just prefer an exact fit and pins!
When I do solder, for me, NOTHING beats Tinemens Liquid Flux. I use a sharpened piece of pin stock like Tom mentioned. I dip the "Pin" in the flux and the solder will flow anywhere you wipe the flux. I use a low temp silver solder available from Shefields here in FL.
Once the solder bigins to flow, take the heat away, the blade and guard should stay hot long enough to flow the solder completly with one heating.
I must have built about 1000 slot car frames from brass material as a kid, all silver soldered together..... Using liquid flux!
Neil

EDIT: I'm not saying to do it different than Tom said above! This is what works best for me!!!


[This message has been edited by Dr.Lathe (edited 28 November 1999).]
 
Gentlemen, thank you all very much. Yes I was talking about the guard and not the "tang". Must be suffering from dain bramage. I also use a machinist scribe to move the solder around. And liquid flux and cleaner. I'm gonna have to pay more attention to the heat I think. Sure do enjoy this forum. Any time I'm in doubt I find the answers here among the masters and wise ones. Now it's back to the shop to try out my new found wisdom.
Matt, no I dont reharden the knives because I don't heat them enough to soften them. ( I think/hope). I'm using old power hacksaw blades. Haven't graduated to stainless yet. Besides I get the blades for free. I've tested them on a Rockwell hardness tester, and they come out about
65-68 on the RC. scale. I make mostley skinners, camp, and hunters. If you would like to see some I would be glad to send some pics to you.Just need an e-mail address.
Thanks again to all, and Bladeforum.
Dave


[This message has been edited by David Gladden (edited 28 November 1999).]
 
Yes, you can overheat it, and that's what usually happens when the joint isn't clean enough -- it won't flow so you heat it up a little more and it still won't flow so you try more heat, and then the flux starts burning. My old shop teacher could smell burning flux from across the shop and he'd be there giving you heck before you could get your goggles off. It didn't pay to tell him, "I cleaned it," either; that would set him right off.... I used to laugh and say, "Well, I thought I cleaned it," and start cleaning it again. That was the only way to get him off your case.
smile.gif


He was right, too. You think you cleaned the heck out of that joint but if the solder won't flow, you just have to clean more heck out of it -- then it'll work. If the joint is tightly fitted (silver solder won't bridge a gap at all, it's gotta be tight) and it really is clean -- not just "good enough;" when you think it's "good enough" it usually isn't -- but when it's tight and clean there's nothing easier than silver soldering; you just touch the torch to the joint and it flows all over, wherever you put the flame the solder follows and you have a perfect joint in seconds. All the work is in the preparation.

First I degrease the joint with solvent and then I hit it with the emory cloth until it's just as bright and shiny as can be, and then hit it with the solvent again. Emory cloth that you've been using on metal that might have been a little oily can transfer enough oil to the joint to prevent the solder from flowing. Touching the joint can get it oily from your skin even if you just washed your hands. Touching the emory cloth and then rubbing the joint with it can do it. You can't be too fanatic about cleanliness when you're silver soldering. Like my old shop teacher used to say (actually, he used to yell), "NEVER tell me 'I cleaned it'!"

-Cougar Allen :{)
 
Couger,
After reading your letter maybe I need to pay more attention to your shop teacher and clean it again, and one more time to make sure it's as clean as he would want it. "I thought I cleaned it good enough".... but maybe not.

Thanks Dave
 
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