Solid VS Serrated Contact wheel?

  • Thread starter Thread starter -
  • Start date Start date

Uncle Sam came thru! I am getting ready to buy my first grinder and not sure what the difference between the solid & serrated wheels are? What is a good size wheel?

I am also in the drawing stages of making a working knife for everyday tough use. What is a good point design, grind, steel type? I plan to try and keep this knife as affordable as possible for working stiffs like myself!
You guys gotta know alot more than I do
biggrin.gif
 
Get a smooth faced wheel. I used a serrated wheel for three years and once I got my smoothy, I don't know how I got along without it. The serrated vibrates something fierce. I bought and 8" and 10" wheel. I use the 10 most often. I think it's best for fixed blades. Take care! Michael

------------------
http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel


Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!

[This message has been edited by L6STEEL (edited 03-06-2000).]
 
I suggest at least a 10 inch wheel, then maybe a very small wheel for finishing grips and such.

If you only have one contact wheel I'd get a serrated one. I don't have any problem with vibration. AndI agree with Tom Mayo that a serrated is better for rough grinding and profile work and the smooth wheel is better for finish grinding.

------------------
Totally new website!
www.wilkins-knives.com
 
I prefer the serrated wheel. I grind most blades after heat treating and they just stay cooler. You can generate quite a bit of heat with finer belts and a smooth wheel.

I use 8" and 10", depending on the blade design.

For the other questions - drop or clip point, deep hollow grind on a 10" wheel, and for a beginner, 440C, or 1095. No use wasting any of that expensive stuff for awhile.
 
Plenty has been said about contact wheels, all of it seems sound.

About your knife design.
IMHO, for a rough working knife I would recommend a drop point or a straight false edge (as opposed to the upward curve of the clip point) with a convex edge ground almost to the back of the blade. Kit's recommendations of 440 or 1095 are great, I would add 01. A tough, inexpensive and very forgiving steel.
 
Hey, why didn't you guys rell me serrated was better before I spent all this money on two smoothies???
biggrin.gif
Oh well, next time I'll know.
http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel

------------------


Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
 
Sounds like a good quality Serrated wheel is the way to go. Any particular brand or style better than another? V groove sounds like the one to get anybody know where I can get one?
On the working knife I want to have Paul Bos do the heat treating so I need an air hardening steel that holds a good edge and is field sharpenable!
Thanks for the help keep the ideas coming
biggrin.gif

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top