some comments on edge retention (hardness / wear resistance and angle)

Cliff Stamp

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In the middle of doing some work on cardboard with the small Sebenza vs a few other knives I saw a few interesting aspects of performance, most of which I knew about, most of which Alvin and Miked talked about on rec.knives. So I made some effort to quantify them in a little detail and ended updoing a fairly large volume of work.

First was angle and edge retention, I compared the small Sebenza to a Meadowlark with the edges at 5 degrees and cut some cardboard, repeating the cutting several times. It was impossible to say which knife had better edge retention because I was hand honing the edges and the angle was having a massive influence.

At low angles it was very difficult to get clean edges, under mag the edge was breaking apart revealing large chips (0.1 mm were visible in some sections). In use the edges also further developed large chips and the edge rippled grossly, enough to see by eye. Which one tended to do best was which one had the higher honing angle basically and it could make a many to one difference.

I then cut the edges at 15 degrees on the Sharpmaker, microbevel, and did push cuts and the edge rippling was much less evident, this makes sense given the larger angle and the blades cut far more cardboard (several times over). However when the edges were increased to 20 degrees the lifetime of the edge was worse, so there is a "sweet spot" in regards to angle.

I think this can be explained by noting that at lower edge angles the cutting ablity is higher and the slicing aggression inherently higher for a couple of reasons. As you go really low the strength is reduced too far and the edge just bends/ripples too much and the edge retention is really low, but as you increase it too high you lose too much cutting ability and slicing aggression and you can't cut very much material either.

It would be interesting to compare a few stock blades with a range of angles, say 5,10,15,20, on both push cutting and slicing because if the above presupposition holds true, there should be a difference in how they respond to the angles in regards to edge retention.

I then compared slicing cardboard vs push cuts and the edge retention was very different. On push cuts the small Sebenza and the Meadowlark were pretty much identical, and there was no advantage to the much more expensive S30V blade, on slicing however the Sebenza was significantly ahead. This can be argued for based on carbide / wear. I also compared the Sebenza to two different Temperances, multiple times for each one and found the same thing.

What would be interesting would be to compare the small Sebenza to both harder blades with less wear resistance as well as softer blades with more wear resistance and thus see how much of an effect each one makes. I have some blades to check some of these things and will look at them as time allows.

As a side note, the Sebenza with a high relief grind is one of the easiest knives I have to sharpen. The deep hollow grinds allows the primary edge to be reset very easily and the steel doesn't burr heavily. I would also like to compare this to S30V at a few more HRC points and see the difference in regards to the above points (angles, push/slice edge retention).

Note in regards to generality, slicing cardboard tends to hold well to slicing most materials, and push cutting cardboard tends to hold well for push cutting most materials, thus trials ran slicing ropes or whittling wood tend to agree with the above loose laws of behavior, performance seems to be critically influenced by the nature of the cutting more so than the media, assuming you can of course do that type of cutting on the media, you can't for example actually slice wood to any degree with a knife.

However going directly from cardboard to ropes on a slice is a bit complicated in regards to grits because slicing ropes tends to benefit pretty straightforwardly on decreasing grit but in cardboard it is more complicated because even on heavy slicies there is some push cutting so again there is a sweet spot in regards to finish.

-Cliff
 
I wonder if Buck was on to something when they switched their edge profile to 26-30 degrees total included angle? All I know is the ones I have with that profile cut well and are easy to sharpen, despite being S30V and BG-42, which Buck tends to run a little harder than some other makers.
 
A while ago I sharpened my Kershaw Boa down to the primary grind.
The edge dented on hair.
S60V does not make a good razor at 55-57RC.
Afterwards I reset to a steeper angle and it works fine, but I'm very disappointed that it wasn't stable at that shallow an angle. I am now a firm believer in the benefits of high RC steel.
 
Cliff, you've got mail. I finished up some cutting with a D2 knife that I evidently thinned out too much and took some pretty good divots out of the edge. I can't post pictures here, but I sent you one. I think I found the lower limit on D2, I wish I knew what the hardness was on it.... :D
 
Don M said:
I wonder if Buck was on to something when they switched their edge profile to 26-30 degrees total included angle? All I know is the ones I have with that profile cut well and are easy to sharpen, despite being S30V and BG-42, which Buck tends to run a little harder than some other makers.

Yeah it makes a huge difference in regards to cutting ability, edge retention and ease of sharpening. Buck had CATRA results which showed the benefits of the lower angles. Spyderco also runs fairly thin and acute edges and their knives see the same benefits.

Essentially you get optimal performance at the angle and thickness which just barely have the necessary durability, for the typical work that most people do this is much lower than most stock angles. If you put in some time and work on technique and how to cut you can reduce it further.

Lately I have been using some really thin, acute and hard edged knives to do some cutting which I thought would have been impossible, thick plastics, medium gauge metals (food cans) and so sorth. The downside is that you have to be willing to grossly damage the knives to figure these things out.

sodak said:
I finished up some cutting with a D2 knife that I evidently thinned out too much and took some pretty good divots out of the edge.

Thank's for the shot, it should take a lot harder cutting that what you did to crack D2 like that, unless you were cutting a lot of knots and the edge was cracking in them. Can you talk to anyone at Queen?

Joshua J. said:
S60V does not make a good razor at 55-57RC.

That is underhardened for that type of alloy, not enough strength for the wear resistance to quote Carl, but even that should be able to cut hair. The edge simply not forming clean at low angles, it may be tearing out / breaking up. Many times you can solve this problem with the addition of a tiny (not visible micro bevel).

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp wrote: "Many times you can solve this problem with the addition of a tiny (not visible micro bevel)."

I wonder if an acute angle used on the secondary (transition) bevel and finished with a more conventional final edge (micro) bevel at about 20-25deg per side (ie: total inclusive angle about 45deg) is more likely the optimum edge angles?

This way the final edge (micro) bevel is not too acute to be damaged easily yet the secondary bevel at about 15deg/side is still the optimum angle for cutting through material?

What do you think?

--
Vincent

http://UnknownVT2005.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net/
 
That seems to be the way that many people end up heading towards. It gives a massive increase in durability and radically influences of ease of sharpening with only a slight decrease in cutting ability in general. Interesting thread on this issue :

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=305456

I didn't think the bevels made nearly as much difference as Dave noted they can in certain situations. Depends on the steel as well, you need fairly hard steels to take really low angles, the soft and coarse ones just fall apart, they can make nice pseudo-saws though.

For example if I am using a low end steel like the softer stainless for slicing, I will grind them right down to nothing and not worry about a microbevel as you will just wear it right off anyway and cut with the primary edge so you need that really acute.

You take even the 420 blades and grind the edge right down to ~5 degrees and you can slice cut carpet for a long time. Useless for finish work on hardwoods and such, but decent enough as a rough saw.

-Cliff
 
Thanks KeithAM. Because I had it so thin (around 15 deg total, thin for me...), it was very easy to put a secondary bevel on the blade. About 5 minutes on my large DMT coarse (blue) benchstone. Took out almost all of the damage, and back to good cutting. This secondary bevel hasn't chipped yet doing the same cutting. I owe Cliff another picture as soon as I get the film developed and scanner working.
 
sodak said:
This secondary bevel hasn't chipped yet doing the same cutting.

What is the new angle? Unless you are monsterously strong, and can for example just take the knife and slice through 1" hardwood dowels in one pass, the knife should not have chipped. I am going to check locally a WalMart for similar wood this weekend.

Joshua J. said:
How hard does it need to be?

The harder the better, you keep seeing improvement as the strength of the steel improves. You also want a very fine grain, I have had some steels which I could not even form fine edges upon, as they just broke apart when the angles went low.

-Cliff
 
Right at the secondary bevel shoulder, I'm measuring between 0.007 and 0.010 inches thick. As best as I can measure from the edge back to the shoulder (width), it's about 0.015 inches on my caliper. That second measurement could be off by 50%, it's hard to hold the calipers that steady. Also, I'm holding the calibers above the knife on the second measurement, so if you are think of a right triangle, I would be measuring the long (90 deg) side, not the hypotenuse.

The housewares/fireplace supplies at Walmart is where their pitch pine sticks are, and a really good deal! I'll try to get the other pics done this weekend. I've got pictures of the wood and the new bevel of the knife, the "after" pictures, if you will.

And I forgot to add, I'm only average size and strength...
 
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