Some firsts from me

Darrin Sanders

Knifemaker
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I had these scraps left over and decided to make my first Kiridashis. They also have my first try at a forced patina and my first cord wrap. Blades are .050" 52100 @ RC 61. Approx. 4&5/32" long & 7/8" wide. Let me know what you guys think, good or bad.
 

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Thanks guys, I haven't ground the edge yet but I'm thinking full chisel. They oughta be scary sharp that way.
 
Maybe some of the people who are more familiar with Japanese knives can tell you what they are traditionally used for. I was gonna sell them for a few bucks but after I chisel ground them and sharpened them I found they cut leather like a laser. So I'm gonna keep em for that.
 
They were originally used for trimming Bonsai trees I believe. I have one and it is amazing for cutting things like leather. You can really keep a straight line with them and they get stupidly sharp.
Those look fantastic.
 
They get treated a lot like we would treat a pocket folder in the west. Those little day to day knife tasks that don't call for a big blade. As already pointed out, they're also VERY good at tasks where you need a lot of precise control and not a ton of leverage.

They look nice, I prefer them simple and slightly longer like these rather than the odd shaped and really short ones you see regularly.
 
Thanks for the compliment Mack & Remy. Remy, I made these from scrap just playing around, hence the short length. I can see where another inch or so would make them easier to use. I think I"m gonna make a few more. What length and width do you find works best?
 
They were originally use by Japanese carpenters for marking straight lines before a saw cut. Also for making clean cuts on flower stems to promote longer life. Like Remy said they became the basic EDC utility knife. I have several around the shop, used most on 10 oz. leather.
 
Darrin, these are about where I like. Just long enough to not be fingertip only, but not so long you end up with a full hand. I figure, if my fingertips are by the edge and there's something actually in my hand it's good. If it's all fingertip I feel like I'm going to lose control of it all the time.
 
Alright! Those look super good Darrin. The Japanese bug bites hard doesn't it?

I make mine about an inch wide and about 5 or 6 or so inches oal.

I made one that I absolutely destroyed the etch on, and now it sits in my toolbox. Handiest little knife that I have. It's good to keep some of your own stuff for testing.

Try one with a small secondary edge bevel for strength.
 
Thanks Josh, yes that bug has bitten and its all your fault. :D I'm gonna make 2 or 3 more in that size range when I get a chance. I also see a handle wrapping book or dvd in my future. Do you have any suggestions?
 
I have Kirby Lambert's handle wrapping DVD, and it's pretty decent. I don't do things the way he does them, and absolutely cannot recommend the titebond glue he uses for the handles. I just don't see how he gets it to work. It's a foamy nightmare.

I get flat nylon cord from knifekits.com. Some guys are getting big spools of hiking boot lace from shoelace places. You can also search for cotton Ito cord in tons of colors. Sword restoration places have it. You want a foot of cord per inch of handle.

As far as the epoxy for the handles, nothing beats West System's 105 Resin and 207 hardener. Works well on paracord and any other fabric, hemp, and leather cord too. The epoxy makes some colors alot darker, so be aware and maybe test some out before committing to a handle.

Mix 3 parts epoxy to 1 part hardener and just brush it on with a small disposable paint or acid/flux brush. Prop it up and let it dry a full two days. If you try to do your kydex work when the handle is even the slightest bit tacky/soft, it'll be a disaster.


Check out some youtube videos on tsukamaki. Here's a helpful diagram too. (nevermind the paper triangles etc. I'm no traditionalist.) Just takes some patience and practice.

katamak1.jpg
 
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You can do this with some heavy shoelaces too. One should be long enough to do a kiridashi. I'm trying some with some skateboard "grip" tape underneath. Looks pretty cool. I'd say a regular two part epoxy thinned out a little with acetone would be just fine. I just always had the west system.

I was thinking about trying to make a video on how I do things. You'll get it. And soon you'll be wrapping every oblong object you can get your hands on...lol
 
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