Some Input Please Re: Heat Treating

[Lindey]

Hey there all,
For kicks I recently took apart a cheap S&W karambit I have and began to remove the urban camo finish. I mirror polished the blade and after doing the same to one of the handle slabs I've decided to bead blast the slabs to add a little contrast. The blade steel is 420 surgical stainless according to the blade, what i was wondering is if it would be worthwile to send it away and have it re-heat treated? I was careful not to change the temper while refinishing it so it hasn't changed from the company treat, but I thought another company might be able to do it better. Also, any other suggestions on how to "Pmp" this thing would be welcome. Take it east.

-Lindey

 

[mete]

It's a cheap steel to begin with so reheat treating won't make it any better.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Lindey, there are many versions of 420 stainless, they vary mainly in the carbon content and it ranges quite a bit and thus so does the performance. Phil Wilson works with a higher carbon version of 420 stainless in some of his blades you might want to drop him an email and check about availability and cost.

I doubt that S&W is running it at optimal hardness, generally most stainless are underhardened due to low soak temperatures, air cooling and no cold treatments. The blade could also likely benefit from getting reground. Putting that money into that level of knife is a bit of a question mark but it doesn't hurt to enquire about it.

-Cliff

 

[Lindey]

Thanks for the info Cliff, I don't plan on making this thing anything spectacular, just thought it would be a good hobby project while on the job hunt. It's fun to play with but also not expensive so if i mess it up its no bother. I found a supply company that said they could do the heat treat for about $8 plus shipping so i thought it might be worth it. Anyway, take it easy.

-Lindey

 

[Bill DeShivs]

www.texasknife.com can heat treat the blade. I have often been tempted to have a 420 blade optimized. I do know that this steel, or very similar, has been the defacto standard stainless in production knives for many years. Some of the better German knives have held an edge suprisingly well. I'd say try it!
Bill

 

[wwells20]

My Boker Subcom Folder in 420J2 holds an inpressive edge. I was very impressed.:thumbup:

 

[Cliff Stamp]

I have often been tempted to have a 420 blade optimized.

On a low end with the carbon content at its minimum it isn't even usually measured on the Rockwell C scale it is so soft, on the upper end some claim hardness up to 58 HRC, so there is quite a range of performance available for that steel depending on the exact composition and the hardness. It is usually held in low regard as the most common experience with it is on really low end knives. If you soaked it fairly hot, 2050 F, with an aggressive quench and cold treatment, and tempered it low, 325 F, it should react very differently than the standard fare. Using a similar method Roman Landes promotes 440A as a very high quality knife steel, and runs it about 60 HRC which is far harder than it is commonly hardened. A lot of people just write off those steels and never look into more optimal hardening.

-Cliff