OhioApexing
Sharpener
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2018
- Messages
- 235
Withdrawn: went with an Edge Pro!
Last edited:
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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Recommendation? Some KME accessories questions...
- Thread starter OhioApexing
- Start date
The Burgh
Basic Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2015
- Messages
- 501
Have had and extensively used my KME for 4 years. Can't be happier!
Go for:
Go for:
- KME Standard system with the diamond hones (140-1500 grit)
- Base/stand
- Angle cube/sharpies/jeweler's loupe/band-aids (lol)
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2018
- Messages
- 4,458
Get the pen jaws. They are very handy for thinner blades (edge to spine) and sometimes for lower angles on other blades. Very nice to have when you need them.
Next I would of course have a marker, I prefer red as it is easier to see than black and I like a battery-powered lighted loupe in the 20x range.
Next a roll of hockey (or similar fabric) tape. This can be very nice for thin full flat grind blades. People overstate how badly it is needed but there are times when it is. The key to avoiding it as much as possible is to pinch real hard on the corners of the jaws touching the thinnest part of the blade (typically the point end) and cranking down on the knob. Try that a few times you'll likely securely clamp 90% of what you feed it.
Then I would get two strops and the 4um and 1um emulsions.
Next would be either the black or translucent Arkansas stones. For edges that are not high-vanadium, I typically stop on the 600 diamond (unless I use the ceramics cuz my kit is so old that's what it came with) and the Arkansas stone makes for a nice edge. You'll need some honing oil or you can go the dishsoap/water route. Also, you'll need to make a tiny adjustment to the angle if I remember right. No biggy.
Then I would go on one of the big fastener sights and purchase new knobs for the clamp and stone holder. I can't for the life of me remember the thread sizes but if you search YouTube for a guy named Dean O he has a video about customizing his KME (or just call the KME shop). I have larger diameter knob on the clamp and bulb type knob on the carrier. World of difference!!!
Then it would be the 50 grit diamond Beast. I don't own one and haven't had a need for one yet, but if you get it, know that it is extremely aggressive and will likely leave a rough scratch pattern.
From here, it will be about your needs and preferences. I don't bother with an angle cube. I've sharpened a ton of knives on the KME and never needed it. I do have an angle app on my phone and it works fine for checking but I came to realize, that as long as I found the factory bevel with the marker, then I could adjust however I wanted as long I did both sides the same. Never have had an issue. To each their own there of course.
If you're a re-curve guy, then the jeweler's rod might be a higher priority for you. Or, if you are going to use a variety of stones, then perhaps the compensator moves up your list. Heck, even after I got the diamonds, I used the ceramic stones on a lot of my "softer" knives because there's no need to put undo wear on the much more expensive diamonds. There a little slower and messier but super cheap. Just depended on my mood.
I love the KME but there is no way I could recommend the Chosera stones. For one, they are gonna be messy and dripping everywhere. For two, they are just too small, IMHO, for that kind of high-refinement. For the cost, I would have to recommend waiting and learning bench stones at some point.
I don't know enough about their lapping films but seems pretty pricey for chasing edges that won't last.
Getting polished edges is not difficult. The key is proper refinement between stones. Again, diamonds can be quite aggressive so you might consider the ceramics if you have enough steels to make it viable. Otherwise, and as always with diamond stones, LIGHT pressure. Like no pressure. Just the weight of the carrier and keep the stone moving. I also spritz mine with Windex. You might be surprised at how reflective even a not so refined edge is when 90 degrees to a flat surface. Close examination might reveal it is less than a mirror for sure but it can certainly look impressive so that will be up to you to decide.
I don't bother chasing hair-whittling edges, gave that up long ago, but if you do your part, the KME should get you there with just the strops, like down to .1um. Again, no firsthand experience there but I can't think why that wouldn't work.
Just remember, speed comes from experience. Set reasonable goals to start and be honest with yourself about your results and techniques. APEX!!! Don't cheat or fib what you're seeing on the apex. Get it right from heel to tip on the lowest stone and every stone thereafter. Don't do weird clamping or any of those things some people will tell you. Even with a precision system, extreme edges will have a learning curve and gear/steel trials. Start with attaining sharp knives and developing solid technique and then go from there.
Anyways, long ramble and sorry if I strayed off.
Next I would of course have a marker, I prefer red as it is easier to see than black and I like a battery-powered lighted loupe in the 20x range.
Next a roll of hockey (or similar fabric) tape. This can be very nice for thin full flat grind blades. People overstate how badly it is needed but there are times when it is. The key to avoiding it as much as possible is to pinch real hard on the corners of the jaws touching the thinnest part of the blade (typically the point end) and cranking down on the knob. Try that a few times you'll likely securely clamp 90% of what you feed it.
Then I would get two strops and the 4um and 1um emulsions.
Next would be either the black or translucent Arkansas stones. For edges that are not high-vanadium, I typically stop on the 600 diamond (unless I use the ceramics cuz my kit is so old that's what it came with) and the Arkansas stone makes for a nice edge. You'll need some honing oil or you can go the dishsoap/water route. Also, you'll need to make a tiny adjustment to the angle if I remember right. No biggy.
Then I would go on one of the big fastener sights and purchase new knobs for the clamp and stone holder. I can't for the life of me remember the thread sizes but if you search YouTube for a guy named Dean O he has a video about customizing his KME (or just call the KME shop). I have larger diameter knob on the clamp and bulb type knob on the carrier. World of difference!!!
Then it would be the 50 grit diamond Beast. I don't own one and haven't had a need for one yet, but if you get it, know that it is extremely aggressive and will likely leave a rough scratch pattern.
From here, it will be about your needs and preferences. I don't bother with an angle cube. I've sharpened a ton of knives on the KME and never needed it. I do have an angle app on my phone and it works fine for checking but I came to realize, that as long as I found the factory bevel with the marker, then I could adjust however I wanted as long I did both sides the same. Never have had an issue. To each their own there of course.
If you're a re-curve guy, then the jeweler's rod might be a higher priority for you. Or, if you are going to use a variety of stones, then perhaps the compensator moves up your list. Heck, even after I got the diamonds, I used the ceramic stones on a lot of my "softer" knives because there's no need to put undo wear on the much more expensive diamonds. There a little slower and messier but super cheap. Just depended on my mood.
I love the KME but there is no way I could recommend the Chosera stones. For one, they are gonna be messy and dripping everywhere. For two, they are just too small, IMHO, for that kind of high-refinement. For the cost, I would have to recommend waiting and learning bench stones at some point.
I don't know enough about their lapping films but seems pretty pricey for chasing edges that won't last.
Getting polished edges is not difficult. The key is proper refinement between stones. Again, diamonds can be quite aggressive so you might consider the ceramics if you have enough steels to make it viable. Otherwise, and as always with diamond stones, LIGHT pressure. Like no pressure. Just the weight of the carrier and keep the stone moving. I also spritz mine with Windex. You might be surprised at how reflective even a not so refined edge is when 90 degrees to a flat surface. Close examination might reveal it is less than a mirror for sure but it can certainly look impressive so that will be up to you to decide.
I don't bother chasing hair-whittling edges, gave that up long ago, but if you do your part, the KME should get you there with just the strops, like down to .1um. Again, no firsthand experience there but I can't think why that wouldn't work.
Just remember, speed comes from experience. Set reasonable goals to start and be honest with yourself about your results and techniques. APEX!!! Don't cheat or fib what you're seeing on the apex. Get it right from heel to tip on the lowest stone and every stone thereafter. Don't do weird clamping or any of those things some people will tell you. Even with a precision system, extreme edges will have a learning curve and gear/steel trials. Start with attaining sharp knives and developing solid technique and then go from there.
Anyways, long ramble and sorry if I strayed off.