Some observations on buying a new car (FWIW, long)

fracmeister

Petroleum Engineer
Joined
May 26, 1999
Messages
1,686
Some observations on buying a new car. For what it is worth.

First, my bias when trying to buy a Lexus LS430, Mercedes S430, S500 or BMW 745 was to buy a 2004 or 2005 with less than about 25000 miles in excellent shape. When I went over it and over it I wound up buying a new Lexus – and from my local dealer!

I used a variety of internet resources checking the going prices of late model, lightly used vehicles and found ebay motors to be as dynamic a marketplace as you could want. I bid on over 50 cars, typically bidding 95-100% of the Kelley Blue Book “excellent” condition wholesale price, the Kelley Blue Book Trade-In Value
(see http://www.kbb.com/kb/ki.dll/ke.kb.sp?kbb&&&usedCars;slp ).

My observation was that truly first rate cars don’t sell that low on ebay and in fact sell above the Kelley Blue Book Trade-In Value. The best cars sold pretty close to the Kelley Blue Book Private Party Value and (for the very lowest mileage cars from the most reputable dealers) somewhere between the Private Party and the Kelley Blue Book Suggested Retail Value. They never seemed to sell as high as this latter price.

The discount on the very nicest cars from the new price I thought I could get wound up being no more than about $0.50 per mile. I wanted something closer to $1.00 per mile, but decided to see how low I could get the “new” price. Then I discovered www.fleetrates.com (and I imagine there are many others out there). Basically, for the $29.95 joining fee you can buy a lot of cars at “dealer’s invoice.” In my case, that meant a Lexus listing for $63,284 could be had for $55,409. Then I would have to pay shipping from California to Texas. The purchase would be directly from a dealer in Southern California. The fleetrates guys (very helpful on the phone) all claimed this would be no more than 600$ going through them. Of course I’d have to register it here, get it inspected here, etc. Texas was going to get 6.25% of the purchase price no matter what.

My Lexus dealer provides free maintenance for the first 25,000 miles and I would probably do most of it at the dealer even if I bought the car elsewhere. I made up a spreadsheet, starting at $55,409, adding shipping, the 29.95 fleetrates cost, and 75% of the first two years’s maintenance (after confirming with a separate dealer that they didn’t do the free maintenance for cars purchased elsewhere). My salesman gulped a little, but said he’d do what he could.

He made left one offer on the phone that was 1600$ higher than my net price. Then he said that all the cars he had also had pinstripes, tinted windows (which I wanted), and the 3M invisi-shield product. I sort of liked the pinstripe but not much and my own research on the “clear bra” invisishield says it is pretty good but not worth the 750 $ retail. These three items retailed (on the sticker) for 1650$ but I nnew they were all very high margin dealer add-ons. But truly first rate tinting on a car like this might well run 4-500$, so I was astonished when he offered to match the fleetrates delivered net price + 600$ for the three options. Conclusion: I recommend going to fleetrates.com for a new car. If you want to go to a local dealer let them try and match their offer + shipping.

At the end of the day, I bought a new car for less than I saw some cars on ebay (with identical equipment) go for on ebay that were used and had 3000-10000 miles on them. Amazing.
 
One item that's always in a buyer's favor is having cash in hand. And never trade a vehicle. After buying literally dozens of cars for various folks that's the best advice I could offer. I don't finance vehicles. I sell my used car myself. I don't buy used since I keep a (personal) vehicle for ten years.

Knowing the real dealer cost including holdbacks and manufacturers rebates, not the invoice so many expound, is very enlightening. I don't mind any dealer making a fair profit, just not more than I feel is acceptable. I usually call each dealer with specifics and get an out the door price, the lowest is the one I visit. If they won't give me a price over the phone, I go elsewhere. Be willing to walk away.
 
JB in SC said:
One item that's always in a buyer's favor is having cash in hand. And never trade a vehicle. After buying literally dozens of cars for various folks that's the best advice I could offer. I don't finance vehicles. I sell my used car myself. I don't buy used since I keep a (personal) vehicle for ten years.

Knowing the real dealer cost including holdbacks and manufacturers rebates, not the invoice so many expound, is very enlightening. I don't mind any dealer making a fair profit, just not more than I feel is acceptable. I usually call each dealer with specifics and get an out the door price, the lowest is the one I visit. If they won't give me a price over the phone, I go elsewhere. Be willing to walk away.

I actually hammered one down and couldn't get him to my desired price once before. He knew I was paying cash. Then he said "I'll do it if you finance it and hold the paper for three months." he personally got some cash on finance deals (which were very attractive at the time and no pre-payment penalty) as long as they didn;t prepay within 3 months. It really didn't help the daler but did help the salesman. Go figure.
 
Hi JB in SC-

What is your technique to convince a dealer to give you a competitive vehicle price over the telephone before meeting you? If you tell them you won't visit without a starting price they really haven't "lost" anything...since you're just an anonymous voice on the other side of a telephone.

My experience is that most dealerships will tell you that they don't provide prices over the telephone but will be glad to outline everything in person. If you call ten dealerships and and nine refuse to answer while one gives you a price...are you really getting the lowest price by visiting that single dealership who started the business over the telephone?

~ Blue Jays ~
 
Dealers don't like dealing with cash buyers since there is a potential for less profit (financing), but being able to walk away is power. End of model year (like now) is always a better time to buy.

I don't have much trouble getting a decent deal, I can be very patient. We are lucky here, $300 max sales tax on cars. Saves a bunch of money.
 
I don;t think JB's approach would work for the LExus/BMW/Mercedes etc dealers as well in Texas at least. You can't expect them to just give you the bottom line over the phone. They all pay the same for the cars and while some have more overhead that doesn't always translate into higher prices... it really can be a volume based issue anyway. A dealer with a huge amd thriving repair facility can offset a whole bunch of overhead.

No, I think having a hard, cash offer well below the numbers the dealers are talking gives them a solid target. They hit it you buy there. Miss it, then thsnks for the Diet Coke but I am going to www.fleetrates.com thak you very much
 
Blue Jays,

I've had good luck with local dealers giving me an out the door price and found that most times a dealer will give me a reasonable price over the phone. Most know me personally and I don't get the runaround (I've bought more than a few cars for my company). They know when I call that I am going to buy from someone within 24 hours. I know the dealer cost before calling, so feel that I get a good deal. They don't have to waste time with me, get a sure sale and make a profit.

What's not to like :)

JB
 
Enjoy your new car! :D
I had a very similar experience about 2 months ago. Had to make a choice between BMW 320D, Volvo V50 and Toyota Avensis (all of them 2 liter diesel engine station-wagon).
After trying them all it summed up like this:
BMW has the best engine, 150hp and lots of torque, perfect driving position, lousy space in the back, lousy equipment (manual rear windows, come on...) and could be had for about 22.000 Euro under 10k miles from Germany. Forget about buying it new, price tag in France was 33.000 Euro after all the discounts...
Volvo V50 has the most comfy seats, got equiment, the cutest design, but noisy engine (it's the Peugeot 136hp diesel). About 25.000 Euro new from german dealer after paying VAT and shipping. About 22.000 Euro 1 year old and 10k miles.
Toyota Avensis has a good engine, at 116hp not as powerful as the BMW or Volvo but still lots of torque, the finish and equipment about the same level as Volvo, the space in front or back an order of magnitude better. It costed about 22.500 Euro cheapest price on the net (about 26.000 Euro retail in France including the options I wanted). About 20.000 Euro 1 year old with 10k miles.
I went to my local Toyota dealer. He made me an offer which was in-between the internet price and the retail. I said no, he asked what he should do to convince me to buy it. I told him the internet price. He said he can't match it but made a final offer, the internet price + 200 Euro. I bought it.
Knowing the best price you can get for a given car sure helps you get good prices from dealers. Always do your homework about prices before going to the local dealers.
 
You guys sure seem to do a lot of work just to buy a car. When my wife wants a new car, she does the research and calls me when it's time to sign the papers and pay. When I want a new car, I tell her what I want, she does the research and calls me when it's time to sign the papers and pay.
 
About new cars:

Does anyone know which makes and models now include a black box recorder?

n2s
 
Frank said:
You guys sure seem to do a lot of work just to buy a car. When my wife wants a new car, she does the research and calls me when it's time to sign the papers and pay. When I want a new car, I tell her what I want, she does the research and calls me when it's time to sign the papers and pay.

Next time I need a car I'll do the reserch then call you :D
 
JB in SC said:
Knowing the real dealer cost including holdbacks and manufacturers rebates, not the invoice so many expound, is very enlightening.


How do you find out what this info is? I`d like to have this the next time I go through the torture of vehicle buying.
 
You can buy a report from Consumer Reports with all the above information for $12.00.

I did that this month and ended up getting a very reasonable deal on a Toyota Tundra Double Cab. The sales guys go into fits when you know the wholesale price with the dealer holdbacks and incentives.
There are other sites that have the info as well but typically not all the info in one place.

Consumer Reports Car Info

Here is another source

CNN Money Autos


KS
 
There are a lot of web places that can provide you with invoice and what dealers actually pay for additional options. It is harder to know what hold backs and incentives they have. Some are volume related and unlikely to show up in consumer reports. If fleetrates.com has it available I have not seen lower prices anywhere. Try them all...

The torture....I know what you mean. But this last round was actualy fun because I was headed to such a cool car.

BTW, I sold my 1996 Saturn with 112k miles on it today for less than what I paid for a Jerry Corbit auto.

The Corbit remains mechanically perfect. Of course that Saturn would be in a lot better shape if I had parked it in the garage instead of letting the kids drive it for 3 of the last 10 years........ :eek:
 
I also use Consumer Reports, invoice pricing means very little these days. A car buyer needs to know the actual dealer cost, national and regional dealer hold backs, and rebates. It does give one a good starting point for negotiating.

Knowledge is power.

The sales folk do hate it though :)
 
Invoice prices used to be the holy grail but, the auto industry has evolved to negate the power that once held.

Real dealer cost and all the hold backs and incentives is what you want to know no matter what they call it.

With all the "factory employee" pricing going on right now, expect that pricing system to evolve to make that meaningless too.

Car buying really isn't any fun for me these days. The strong arm sales tactics, the failure to listen to what I am saying, etc.....
 
Sid Post,

I certainly understand your frustration. I am sure many buyers feel the same when going to a dealership these days (like having a root canal).

In days gone by, in smaller towns, there was usually only one dealer per badge. Now, there are literally dozens within easy driving distance. Makes it far easier to take your business elsewhere. It should be to the consumer's advantage, but many aren't prepared ahead of time and buy with their hearts instead of their heads. I try to take the emotion out of a car purchase (buying homes is worse), but many folks can't do it.

Of course the industry is changing and informed consumers will change with the new tactics.

There are still millions of customers that aren't prepared and pay the price for not doing the homework. The dealerships love those people. Car buying is fun for me, my daughter says I get a kick out of making sales people squirm.

Best,
JB
 
JB in SC said:
Sid Post,

I certainly understand your frustration. I am sure many buyers feel the same when going to a dealership these days (like having a root canal).

You understand my point exactly. The premium makes aren't generally that bad but, the big "3" and the cheap foreign makes are very bad. I do my homework but, I might as well be talking to concrete wall. No, I did not ask for a Maroon color with an Automatic. Yes, I know the automatic is only $1200 more and easier to use in grid lock....... :grumpy:

In days gone by, in smaller towns, there was usually only one dealer per badge. Now, there are literally dozens within easy driving distance. Makes it far easier to take your business elsewhere. It should be to the consumer's advantage, but many aren't prepared ahead of time and buy with their hearts instead of their heads. I try to take the emotion out of a car purchase (buying homes is worse), but many folks can't do it.

Emotional car buying is a different topic and I'll avoid it at this time. My sister certainly doesn't though. ;)

There is some truth to what you say about having options but, that also has an effect on service. In times past, I could do almost all the work myself. Then things got more complex and I took my car to the local shop. Now, there are so many specialized pieces of equipment and odd parts, that you can be held hostage with service. I've been down that road with Volkswagen being especially bad.

There were some advantages to the small town dealer when your kids went to school with their kids and you both sat in church together one pew away.

Of course the industry is changing and informed consumers will change with the new tactics.

There are still millions of customers that aren't prepared and pay the price for not doing the homework. The dealerships love those people. Car buying is fun for me, my daughter says I get a kick out of making sales people squirm.

Best,
JB

The is an art to the deal that some people like, even enjoy. That does not include me or a great percentage of the people at large.
 
I use a local shop run by a former service manager that has certified mechanics that do all the work (which isn't much) on my cars. I only use the dealership for warranty work. I've used his shop for my last three company cars (10 years) and not had a problem that his staff couldn't resolve. I've also only had two warranty issues in that same period.

There was an element of trust in local dealerships that no longer exists. My first car was a GM product sold to me by a dealership that was a horse and buggy company before the advent of the automobile, you just don't run into those anymore.

I would never buy another VW, after a rather unpleasant experience in the early 80's..... Live and learn :)
 
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