some questions on common sharpening options

J

jwblack911

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Dec 15, 2011
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i own a lanskey deluxe sharpener. it is the model with 60,100,200,600,1000 grit stones i believe. i have difficulties sharpening cpm154, and s30v with this system, i have to attempt to sharpen my d2 sr-1a because of its rhc. and before i either buy a sharpmarker with diamond stone, or more diamond stones for the lanskey sharpener i had a few questions.

disclaimer- im not looking to whittle hair, when my knife will shave the hair off your arm thats plenty sharp for me. even if it takes a little force.

with my sharpener i do 5 passes each side with each stone using soft pressure, i oil the stones and usually sharpen my edc to 25 degrees.

are there any techniques im missing for sharping the more advanced steels?
how about a recurve ?
most of my knives that need to be sharpened mose are receives. and how about high hardness d2 folders?
is there a learning curve (no pun intended) with sharpening a recurve with the lansky? is it easier with a sharpmaker?


any advice or input would be appreciated
 
s30v and 154 need a little more umph behind them. My rule, if it holds a great edge, it take a little more work putting it there. I would have no reservation in using diamond stones on these steels, at least in the early stages of setting the bevel.

DD
 
Counting strokes never works, grind until both bevel planes meet and form a burr. Once the burr has formed use light pressure and it will reduce its size to nothing or very close. All stones after are for refinement of the established grind pattern. Finish to the grit you like best.

Remember, if its not sharp from the start then it will not be sharp in the end.

Recurves are not easily done on a guided system because changing the distance from the bevel to the point of angle adjustment changes the angle being ground at the bevel.
 
A supplementary diamond hone in Coarse/XC would be a big help for you, especially for S30V & D2. The Lansky hones can be purchased individually as needed, and they're not very expensive (maybe $15 for a diamond hone). Use the diamond hone for the first step, to shape the bevel and establish a burr. The other 'standard' hones in your kit should work well enough in the finishing stages.

A recurve can be sharpened with the Lansky. Just be careful to use very light pressure, as the edges only of the hones will be in contact most of the time, and therefore will exert more pressure on small areas of the blade edge.
 
thanks for the tips guys, i will be sharping my knives later on after work. i will employ your tips and try to get pictures of the result.

is there any guided system to sharpen a recurve ? i do not have an inexpensive knife to try my technique on before i try it on a 0200
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
.A recurve can be sharpened with the Lansky. Just be careful to use very light pressure, as the edges only of the hones will be in contact most of the time, and therefore will exert more pressure on small areas of the blade edge.
Click to expand...

+1 The Lansky's narrow stones are great for recurves.

I just wouldn't use the diamond stones.
 
grizzled gizzard said:
+1 The Lansky's narrow stones are great for recurves.

I just wouldn't use the diamond stones.
Click to expand...

For what it's worth, I re-bevelled a ZT-0350 (S30V w/recurve) using my 'Deluxe' kit like the OP's, with a supplementary diamond hone (medium). It'll get the job done, albeit with some patience. ;)
 
Well... Thank all of you for the advice, it was just what I was looking for. This morning before work I re sharpened my spyderco salt, sr-1a, zt 0200, and a 6 inch fixed blade and wow! I knew I could get a knife sharp enough lol. But now after sharping them to a 25 and a 20 degree on the salt Im shocked how I wasn't abler to get these results before. Finally I can not hesitate to buy a knife because of the bevel or the steel type.

Thanks for the help it made all the difference. I will post a picture of the before and after when I get to a computer
 
For what its worth I believe the Lionsteel SR1 is a convex edge so take care when sharpening/reprofiling not to get the "facetted" look.
 
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