Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
The H1 from Fallkniven is promoted as a hunting knife, but it makes a solid wood working knife. While the stock is very thick it has a high convex grind which tapers to pretty much a micro-bevel of a secondary edge. It cuts very well, close enough to the Mora 2000 that I would consider it in the same class for most woods. I am in the process of building a fairly large lean-to now and decided to make it more permanent so I am actually lashing some of it together. I usually use spruce roots, just split :
I have braided the splits, more for recreation though than strength :
though it is useful on weaker materials like grasses :
and on smaller roots. I lashed the knife to a stick after carving it to shape :
It works much better then for light vegetation just having much better reach and speed :
That wrap won't hold on woods though, even alders will break it readily. A heavier wrap done on very fresh roots will hold though. The H1 also works well as a splitter, and allows techniques like this :
Which takes off a thick wedge much faster than something like the Mora 2000 which has to work up to the thick slabs. You can just pound the H1 in and just crack off the wood. You have to be careful though hitting it because the handle doesn't respond to impacts well on the rubber parts and if there is a knot in the baton you can rip the kraton readily and it gets abraded rapidly if it comes into forceful contact with the wood you are trying to split. Moving on past precut rounds, the same strength allows it to dig and pry in deadfall rapidly and basically shred the wood for tinder, food, or insulation :
It isn't just a brute tool though, as noted the cutting ability is really high, it asily splits the wedges into fine shingles and pencil strips and then makes shavings as desired :
Felling and sectioning larger woods can be done but I would really prefer a longer blade. Even on small saplings you are essentially comparing seconds to minutes running it against the Wildlife hatchet for example :
This is an interesting type of blade grind because it has a lot of strength due to the thick stock but cuts well and sharpens easily as the grind is taken very close to the edge. Note Fallkniven recommends batoning the point into wood for felling rather than the blade which I have always found to be really inefficient.
Ref :
http://www.fallkniven.com/h1.htm
-Cliff
I have braided the splits, more for recreation though than strength :
though it is useful on weaker materials like grasses :
and on smaller roots. I lashed the knife to a stick after carving it to shape :
It works much better then for light vegetation just having much better reach and speed :
That wrap won't hold on woods though, even alders will break it readily. A heavier wrap done on very fresh roots will hold though. The H1 also works well as a splitter, and allows techniques like this :
Which takes off a thick wedge much faster than something like the Mora 2000 which has to work up to the thick slabs. You can just pound the H1 in and just crack off the wood. You have to be careful though hitting it because the handle doesn't respond to impacts well on the rubber parts and if there is a knot in the baton you can rip the kraton readily and it gets abraded rapidly if it comes into forceful contact with the wood you are trying to split. Moving on past precut rounds, the same strength allows it to dig and pry in deadfall rapidly and basically shred the wood for tinder, food, or insulation :
It isn't just a brute tool though, as noted the cutting ability is really high, it asily splits the wedges into fine shingles and pencil strips and then makes shavings as desired :
Felling and sectioning larger woods can be done but I would really prefer a longer blade. Even on small saplings you are essentially comparing seconds to minutes running it against the Wildlife hatchet for example :
This is an interesting type of blade grind because it has a lot of strength due to the thick stock but cuts well and sharpens easily as the grind is taken very close to the edge. Note Fallkniven recommends batoning the point into wood for felling rather than the blade which I have always found to be really inefficient.
Ref :
http://www.fallkniven.com/h1.htm
-Cliff
