Someone Please Classify Stropping Compounds

J

jemelby

Joined
Feb 20, 2005
Messages
280
Checked and double checked... There is no sharpening forum. Too bad. So here goes:

I have always enjoyed the edge I get from stropping a just-sharpened blade. I have used a couple different strops over the years and have gotten quite good at free-hand sharpening in general. I really enjoy the proccess.

One answer that has always eluded me, however, is what the grit/mesh/micron value of various compounds are. I would like to think that they follow a standard coloring convention. Typically, I have seen or used green, white, yellow and red. Mostly, I have used the green supplied by Lee Valley Tools. Almost all of them are an abrasive supended in a wax brick. The real question is not to place an exact "mesh" value to a given color, but classify then from fine to coarse. I would thank anyone to share that knowlege with me.

Also, I have tried various diamond pastes. These generally come with a specific micron value. When used with a super flat piece of plate glass, they are great for lapping planner and chisel blades, but I've never used them very long for knife sharpening.
 
I have used diamond lapping compounds when lapping valve discs and seats. From what my experience has been, I think that Green, yellow, then white are going from course to fine. Sometimes there are different shades of yellow and I don't know how they differ but all of the ones I have used came in a small round twist top container and the compounds were in a past/oil form.

This stuff seems to rub well into a piece of leather and a little goes a long way.

FWIW
Ron
;)
 
I'm sure someone will answer this in detail, but the green compound from Lee Valley is 0.5 micron and I beleive it's a finer grit than the red, black, and white stuff. I have some 0.25 micron diamond paste as well. I use these to strop my straight razors with after honing. With my straight razors I finish on a plain leather hanging strop that is simply treated with animal fat to keep the leather supple so it doesn't dry out and crack.
 
Not all compounds will work on steel, some are non ferrous metal specific. In other words the grit in the compound is not hard enough to cut steel but is hard enough to work on red metals ie copper, brass or aluminum and titanium.
Non ferrous specific compounds are generally red, brown or yellow in colour.

Stropping compounds for knives are usually green or white although one company makes a blue compound which works as well. The finest that I have found is the white.
 
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