Something curious about the Impinda pivot

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Jul 27, 2022
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I took my Impinda apart last night just for kicks, and found something odd, which I hope someone here can shed some light on. Like you'd expect, there's a threaded bushing and a matching screw. The odd thing is - only one of those parts accepts a hex wrench, and it's the bushing, not the screw. Further odd, in my view, is that the head of the screw is cut with a lip, ostensibly in order to lock the part in place so it doesn't rotate when the assembly is tensioned. This seems totally backward to me; normally you'd want the female part stationary so you were free to tension the male part, so you'd put that little lip/detente on the bushing, not the screw, and you'd put your hex-head on the screw, so you could tighten it.

The assembled pivot. This side, which I'd expect to be the bushing, is actually the screw.
1qzGfr7.jpg

This part is the bushing, which must be installed before the screw in order to hold the knife together.
aaFyQFj.jpg


Bushing takes hex, and can rotate freely, no lip/detente to keep it locked in place as you tighten the assembly.
hBwL394.jpg


Screw has that lip on it, which you can see corresponds to a machined matching lip inside the countersink around the pivot.
0WIfFAu.jpg


Here's the bushing (installed first) and the screw/lip ready to be put in place, but why is this - the moving part - the one that's machined to not move? Again, the only hex-head fits into the bushing, not the screw. So you have to manually start the threads on the screw, then start twisting the bushing on the other side with a wrench in order to tighten the pivot - which means you can't assure the lips are matching up, because you can't see them or adjust them to fit. The only possible thing I could think of was that it had something to do with being able to adjust your preferred tension on the pivot point, but even that's a stretch. Any ideas? Am I just projecting my own desire for superior engineering onto an object that doesn't really need it?
RJlzQNb.jpg
 
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It sounds like you're going about it backwards.

I would start the threads and then locate the pivot pin in it's spot and hold in place with finger pressure & then tighten the opposite side.
 
I assemble mine with the pivot shoved all the way in and then thread the front section in about 50% and then slide the assembled towards the back while pinching the knife (a spring clamp may be useful here) and then seat the keyed feature and thread the rest in on the backside.

I use blue locktite as I was having issues with my pivot continuously loosening within a a handful opening and closing motions. Once I set the pivot tension to where the blade is about 1/8" from closing that it sucks it self down into the knife and then leave it for 24hrs for the locktite to cure. I haven't had any issues since then and its been 2-3 months since I've serviced it.

Also, I would advise against anything but the CRK grease as this knife (from my trial and error) it doesn't seem to like anything else.

Matt
 
I assemble mine with the pivot shoved all the way in and then thread the front section in about 50% and then slide the assembled towards the back while pinching the knife (a spring clamp may be useful here) and then seat the keyed feature and thread the rest in on the backside.

I use blue locktite as I was having issues with my pivot continuously loosening within a a handful opening and closing motions. Once I set the pivot tension to where the blade is about 1/8" from closing that it sucks it self down into the knife and then leave it for 24hrs for the locktite to cure. I haven't had any issues since then and its been 2-3 months since I've serviced it.

Also, I would advise against anything but the CRK grease as this knife (from my trial and error) it doesn't seem to like anything else.

Matt
I fumbled my way to much the same procedure, minus the loc-tite, but I'm truly curious if that method is a stop-gap, or if its actually optimal for some reason. The screw being captured to prevent it gradually backing itself out seems logical, but the steps to get there don't. At any rate, it's a great knife, and the first one I've really enjoyed using in a long time. -R
 
I fumbled my way to much the same procedure, minus the loc-tite, but I'm truly curious if that method is a stop-gap, or if its actually optimal for some reason. The screw being captured to prevent it gradually backing itself out seems logical, but the steps to get there don't. At any rate, it's a great knife, and the first one I've really enjoyed using in a long time. -R

I Think problem is the pivot has free reign to rotate so the keyed end essentially will hold it self and the pivot will just continue to rotate out.
 
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