Something good about musk ox horn

[Mark Knapp]

I thought of something good to say about musk ox horn, I mean besides the fact that it is so pretty. Not to mention that it is obtainable in large enough chunks for the biggest knives, and the figure goes all the way through so you can carve a handle out of it in any shape you wish. On walrus ivory, stag and mammoth ivory the best color and texture is right on the outside so you're kind of limited to the shape it comes in. The other thing is that musk ox horn mends so well. If ivory cracks, you are kind of stuck with it, you pretty much have three choices, live with it, replace it or have some creative scrimshaw done to camouflage it. Because of the way musk ox horn cracks and the texture of the material, you can repair it very easily, the crack completely disapears. Here's a Randall that I re-handled a few years ago, I was recently contacted by the third owner of the knife who asked if I could repair some shrinkage and two cracks. I said "hell, I built it, I can repair it, send it over" Of course I don't mean I built the knife, I just put the handles on it. I am sorry I did not think to take some "before" pictures, but you can see it repaired very nicely. I am sure he will be happy. (He only paid the price to send it to me) I'm just trying to give props to one of my very favorite materials that has taken a few lumps lately. Thanks for looking Mark

 

[betzner]

Mark, this is one of my favorite materials. I've not worked with it myself at all, but have owned enough of it. I seem to recall a maker explaining to me once how he would heat the material up just right, causing it to be kinda workable, too.

Bob

 

[John L]

Mark: Could you give us a few tips on working with the material? For example...I have some 3/16" material that is cupped and I plan on using for folder scales if possible. How to reshape to flat material would be a great start. Thanks.

 

[David Stifle]

Mark, is it always green, or does the color vary?

thanks,

Dave

 

[Mark Knapp]

Mark, this is one of my favorite materials. I've not worked with it myself at all, but have owned enough of it. I seem to recall a maker explaining to me once how he would heat the material up just right, causing it to be kinda workable, too.

Bob

John L Mark: Could you give us a few tips on working with the material? For example...I have some 3/16" material that is cupped and I plan on using for folder scales if possible. How to reshape to flat material would be a great start. Thanks.

Here's what I do, put it in a 350 degree oven, check on it frequently, in less than 15 minutes for thin pieces it will get to a point where it becomes maliable, take it out and clamp it between plywood. If you leave it in too long it will start to burn and become brittle. For older pieces that are really dried out you will need to do it in a presure cooker (with water), they can't handle dry heat, they burn up right away. When working the material you can use normal wood working tools, use only sharp tools and abrasives. Excessive heat on the band saw or while you sand it to shape will cause it to warp as you work it. This is true with all horn material but probably more-so with musk ox horn. Work it slow and cool, luke warm is plenty warm.

 

[Mark Knapp]

Mark, is it always green, or does the color vary?

thanks,

Dave

Colors vary but this is typical, I don't see much green in this piece in the hand, it may be looking a little greener on the monitor.

 

[Mark Knapp]

I should have added that too mend the cracks in this piece I just immersed the whole handle in medium viscosity C.A. glue a couple of times and dried it between dippings till the cracks were "healed". Then I sanded everything flush. The whole repair only took a few minutes.

 

[Phillip Dobson]

You have me all excited to get my horn in the mail!

I have a razor that needs a scale.

 

[peterinct]

Has anyone tried using steam to work the horn? I haven't tried it, but i've read where steam was used to make steer horn maleable for working with it.

Some type of steam heating was also used to make wood bendable. Works great for getting minor dings out of pool cues. I have done that

Peter

 

[Mark Knapp]

Has anyone tried using steam to work the horn? I haven't tried it, but i've read where steam was used to make steer horn maleable for working with it.

Some type of steam heating was also used to make wood bendable. Works great for getting minor dings out of pool cues. I have done that

Peter

That's what I mean when I talk about using a presure cooker, it's best to do it dry if you can, because using steam will set back the curing of the material. We would rather keep dry material dry.