Something I'd like to ask about Moras and batoning

W

Waldamir

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Jun 30, 2012
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I like my carbon robust a lot but have always felt like it was lacking since it's not full tang. So my question is Has anyone ever broken The handle of a Mora batoning? I would expect to see it on the 1/4 tang, Thin blade models but I would think there is enough plastic and rubber holding a 3/4 tang, 3.2mm blade in place.

Also when I say batoning I mean reasonable batoning for the blade size. Not cutting down a 200 year old oak tree :D

Thanks everyone stay sharp

PS- Pictures welcomed
 
I will say that it will handle it fine, just be reasonable about wood choice. It will eventually crack but that may be a very long time from now.

GL mj
 
From a design point a view:
Beating a stick tang knife on the blade (batoning) will inevitable create some sort of catastrophic failure, either breaking the handle or shearing the tang

A month ago, a very high quality stick tang knife sheared in my hand when tapping it thru as thin pencil sized wood
An hour before I had lightly battoned it thru some 2" old dry knotty pine

Yes, very knowladgable folk say they have beaten the snot out of their Mora....
But I am faced with failure by design.
How long will it take? I do not know
But when it does it will be just when I do not want it to happens, like an stress situation, when I am hitting the knife just a little bit too hard

So I have choosen not to baton whole rounds with a stick tang knives
Only to baton where there is basically only hand pressure needed
And use full tang for 'real' batoning
 
I'd say that if you have to really whack on it to get it through, it's probably too tough for the mora. if you have small stuff that splits easy than it probably won't be an issue.

You can also carve a wood wedge and split firewood with that if need be.
 
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I would definatly not do it in survival situation or any long trip where it couldn't be replaced, I mean stuff breaks, even full tang knifes. My buddy had the BG ultimate survival knife and used it for a while until it broke. But I watched a test video on that same knife the guy took it out of the box and the tip snapped off within seconds of the test beginning. Obviously that knife it crappier but my point is something can break at any given time or never break at all. If you have a mora you could carv stakes or a wooden wedge and baton that way rather than risk breaking your knife. If the knife can be replaced easily or your not really concerned without having one or a time moras are so cheap that it's not a big deal if you break your mora. But when out backpacking or spending a few days in the woods I wouldn't risk breaking my only knife. I'd just carve a wedge and maybe some stakes, maybe use the mora to make the initial chop, but not beat it with a stick.
 
I went backpacking with my friend once and hr brought along this new guy I had never met before. We were getting our fire pit set.up and I was battoning my bk9 through some fairly stout logs, I also had a Mora companion with me the thin one not the robust version. He saw me with all my knives and gear and asked if he could try a knife so I tossed him to companion thinking hell just check it out, I turned away then turned.back and he was bashing my Mora through a huge thick log. I'm watching in shock and awe but not stopping him cuz oi wanted to see how far he could push it, needless to say it didn't snap, crack, chip, or receive any damage whatsoever. Strong knife yes, lucky it didn't snap yes again.
 
bigghoss said:
I'd say that if you have to really whack on it to get it through, it's probably too tough for the mora. if you have small stuff that splits easy than it probably won't be an issue.

You can also carve a wood wedge and split firewood with that if need be.
Click to expand...

I agree. When I use mine to baton it's used to get a small bit of kindling so I can get the fire going. Anything beyond that and I'd use wedges. Knowing how to read the wood is also important. I think most knives break because people try to force the knife through twisted grain and knots or by batoning large pieces through the middle. All that said I usually have 2 knives on me when out. I don't think it'll break but stuff happens and a backup is a good idea IMO.

If you're really worried about it you can always carve feather sticks. It's a lot less stressful on the knife.
 
I'm a die hard mora fan... I've battoned them plenty with no ill effects.. That being said I keep things to a sensible diameter. Like alil wider than a broom handle.. anything thicker is axe work.
 
I've seen people be pretty rough on Moras when battoning. It might not be smart, but they can take it.
 
Just my own thought on testing equipment. Obviously this only applies to reltively inexpensive equipment.

I will buy and try a thing, Mora, SAK, Fiskars hatchet... and If I like it, I will use it hard- not a test to destruction but I will definitely lean on it hard. If it holds up, I will buy a second one and put it in my kit gear of reserve tools. Some call it Bug Out Gear. I will continue to use the one I bought and tested. I do not want to rely on a bit of gear that I have pushed near its limits for an "urgency/emergency" as I cannot be sure that I have not induced stress fractures that might soon show up. But the models materials/design have been proven in the testing.

Again- this works only for relatively inexpensive gear.

Personally, I have batonned Moras and I mean the thin 9.00 ones. Like others, careful of grain and size and I have been impressed- have not broken one in sensible use.

Bill
 
Most folks bust knives by batoning wrong. If you keep the handle higher than the tip of the blade your Mora will do just fine.
 
I've batoned a fair bit with my moras, and nothing broke or came loose. As long as you don't try and break something that's too big for the blade, you shouldn't have any issue.
 
Thank you all. I'm trying to find a system that I can learn with and I've been going back between Large knife for everything, small knife full tang knife and a folding saw, hatchet, folding saw, mora (Even though the last time I used a hatchet it went straight into my knee but that's a story on it's own) I like to keep things as lite and as simple as possible. I may take out my robust and put it through hell and If it survives I'll buy a second one since they're so inexpensive
 
Hey bud if your just starting out.. I;d say stick with your mora.. pickup a good special grade machete for like 12 or 20 bucks
Like a tram bolo or 12 inch Ontario camp..(Baryonyx knife company does a nice job with these, and is great with answering any questions) between those you got heavy and light work done... Throw in a sak camper for 20 bucks and you got a quality blade set up for somewhere in the range of 50 bucks.
I've been doing bush craft and survival stuff for a while.. I'm hard on my tools... I primarily use a a mora companion, and a fiskars x7 hatchet, my edc is a sak huntsman... none of them are classy or sexy to look at. but they are tools. and they do there job fantastically at a great price... That being said I would be just as comfortable in my area with a machete in lieu of the fiskars.. Good luck.
 
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