Sometimes, the knife just gets duller when the grits go higher...

D

Dogwithrabiez

Joined
Feb 4, 2012
Messages
14
Why is that? Sometimes, I'll have a hair-popping edge at my 1k Naniwa waterstone(after going with the 600 DMT), but once I move to 3k, I've lost that hair popping edge. Other times, I'll be able to get it even sharper on the 3k, then when I move to the 10k, it doesn't even cut paper anymore.

I'm pretty sure I'm maintaining angles pretty consistently, and I'm removing burs on a soft piece of wood between grits. What could be happening, and how do I fix this problem?
 
I have the same problem. I am interested in this. I use the Wicked Edge system and I think it work well, but I am seeing the same problem.
 
Weslhg said:
I have the same problem. I am interested in this. I use the Wicked Edge system and I think it work well, but I am seeing the same problem.
Click to expand...

That's odd, after I strop on my wicked edge its insanely sharp.
 
Going up in grit and getting duller? The blunt answer is user error.

Flatten your stones, keep your angles as close as possible, reexamine your technique, don't sharpen crap steel.

Solutions.

Grab a sharpie, mark the edge, erase the sharpie with the stone, reapply the sharpie, rinse and repeat.

On the wicked edge, okay, guided systems have their own learning curves, apply sharpie and sharpen, make sure you are apexing both sides of the blade.

Strops, be gentle, as the last step of sharpening at high or even medium grits, stropping can make more work, apply sharpie and erase with your strop, it's taken me years to feel confident with strops, probably because for years I didn't have a clue.
 
Dogwithrabiez said:
Why is that? Sometimes, I'll have a hair-popping edge at my 1k Naniwa waterstone(after going with the 600 DMT), but once I move to 3k, I've lost that hair popping edge. Other times, I'll be able to get it even sharper on the 3k, then when I move to the 10k, it doesn't even cut paper anymore.

I'm pretty sure I'm maintaining angles pretty consistently, and I'm removing burs on a soft piece of wood between grits. What could be happening, and how do I fix this problem?
Click to expand...

On many of the "soft" waterstones, you might try finishing with a trailing stroke. They don't work quite the same way as a hard vitreous stone or diamond plate, and a leading stroke will leave a clean edge, but not be as sharp as it could get. Study often and make sure you're working from the shoulder to the apex on each progression. You might be rounding it off a bit on the finishing stones trying to hunt for better feedback. If this is the case, you can diagnose it by observing how long it takes to grind a fresh bevel when you go from the finishing stones back to the 1k.

If you find you have to spend a bit of time getting the scratch pattern consistent from shoulder to apex, you're likely rounding the edge a bit. Either way, once you get much above 1k, many of the polishing grade waterstones will work better with a trailing stroke to finish.

Martin
 
Skimo said:
Going up in grit and getting duller? The blunt answer is user error.

Flatten your stones, keep your angles as close as possible, reexamine your technique, don't sharpen crap steel.

Solutions.

Grab a sharpie, mark the edge, erase the sharpie with the stone, reapply the sharpie, rinse and repeat.

On the wicked edge, okay, guided systems have their own learning curves, apply sharpie and sharpen, make sure you are apexing both sides of the blade.

Strops, be gentle, as the last step of sharpening at high or even medium grits, stropping can make more work, apply sharpie and erase with your strop, it's taken me years to feel confident with strops, probably because for years I didn't have a clue.
Click to expand...

One of the knives is a Benchmade with S30V steel. I will try putting marker on and stropping it off.

Sorry for the post hijack, and thanks for the help.
 
In the past I've had a similar experience with the Spyderco Profile white stone. For those who haven't seen it, it's about 1/2" wide by 8" long and it's cross section has curves on two edges (one top and one bottom on opposite sides). Trying to use this stone, with it's odd shape, and narrow width, as a bench stone, was rather difficult and not very stable, even using it's leather pouch as a base. Several times I made edges worse using that particular stone.

I think the advice above is correct: You have to have fine control over your motions and contact patch on the stone the higher you go. I think it's worse with a very hard stone, like the Spyderco ceramics, but maybe that's just me.

I eventually was able to better my edges with that stone, but it took a while. Later, on larger stones that were stable, it was much easier, though still requires good control.

Brian.
 
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