Sorry guys...another sharpening question

[sfs08]

So I just got a delica4, in vg-10 steel, and needless to say, I am quite the beginner with sharpening!

Let me begin by saying that all I have is a lansky system, and I can't afford a sharpmaker so please don't recommend that.

I have a coarse stone, a medium ston, and a fine stone.

I've been able to put hair-popping edges on my sak's, as well as my 110.

When I tried to sharpen it, I just dulled, literally dulled the delica 4!

I worked both sides with a coarse stone til I got a burr, then worked it with the fine stone until the burr was removed, which I always did with the other knives.

ANd it got dulled!!

All I can do is buy diamond stones, so with that in mind please try to help me!

Thanks!


And I sharpened it with the 20* slots, as I cannot use the 17*.

 

[ghostrider]

In a way, it almost makes sense that your going to dull somewhat wither the Lansky system because it sharpens at a less acute angle than the Sharpmaker. One of the drawbacks of the Lansky. Spydercos are sharpened at the factory at 30 degrees. I know that when I put my Crossbill PE in the Lansky at the 17-degree slot it turned out to be only 20 degrees when I lined it up with my Sharpmaker (and I clamped the knife with the edge as far away from the clamp as possible to get the best angle). In theory (and probably in reality also) you’re probably sharpening your knife at around 46-50 degrees. That makes for a duller knife.

That doesn’t mean you can’t get the knife screaming sharp on the Lansky. I did sharpen my Crossbill PE on it and it got extremely sharp. Once I removed the bur, I gradually reduced the number of strokes per side before changing sides. I’d do say five strokes on one side, and then switch sides and do five on the other (I started with 20). I’d gradually work this down until I was only doing one stroke per side, then I’d start applying less pressure on each stroke until it was just the weight of the hone providing pressure on the edge.

Another thing to keep in mind. I don’t know if other’s Lansky systems are like this, but I noticed that the angle slots on my clamp are not even all the way across. IOW, the opposite ends of the slot are level, but there is a hump in between them. You may want to check yours to see if it is like this. When sharpening, I make sure the rod stays only to one corner of the slot in order to keep a consistent angle.

Hope this helps.

 

[mnblade]

So I just got a delica4, in vg-10 steel, and ... When I tried to sharpen it, I just dulled, literally dulled the delica 4!

If you just got the knife, why were you trying to sharpen it? I mean, Spyderco factory edges are extremely good. Had you really dulled the knife already? Also, if you're having trouble with it, or if you've gotten the edge to a "point of no return," you're best bet might be to send it back to Golden for factory sharpening. YMMV.

 

[sfs08]

If you just got the knife, why were you trying to sharpen it? I mean, Spyderco factory edges are extremely good. Had you really dulled the knife already? Also, if you're having trouble with it, or if you've gotten the edge to a "point of no return," you're best bet might be to send it back to Golden for factory sharpening. YMMV.

I had worked it hard and had dulled it.

Anybody think the diamond hones would work better?

 

[ghostrider]

I had worked it hard and had dulled it.

Anybody think the diamond hones would work better?

the diamond hones will take off more material at a faster rate. If there is some reason that you can't use the 17* slots then it's understood, but if you can use them your better off.

TBH, if your actually are doing the bur method correctly, then there shouldn't be a problem. If it's still dull, then it could be an indicator that your haven't completely raised the bur, or removed it. I suggest you try the magic marker trick.