Sorry, I know this has been asked hundreds of times.

J

Jake Bauer

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Sep 19, 2007
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I'm sure this has been asked a lot of times, but what is Sandvik 13C26, and Sandvik 14C28N comparable too among more commonly known knife steels?

I used to buy nothing but Kershaw knives, but after they started making them with this newfangled "sandvik" stuff, I've stopped to wait to hear what it's comparable to, and how it performs overall, but I've never heard.

Thanks.
 
Jake,

That's a pretty subjective question, but I'll give you my take on it.

First of all, I don't have any experience yet with the 14C28N Sandvik, since no knives are available with it just yet, but I'll be sure to let you know as soon as they start hittin' the streets.;)

As far as 13C26, I would rate it's edge retention at just a tad under 154CM. It holds an edge pretty well and it's not overly difficult to sharpen. And not only does it sharpen easily, but it sharpens SHARP!! Very easy to get a hair poppin' edge with the 13C26.:thumbup:

In terms of corrosion resistance, from what I understand, it's not quite as good as S30V or VG-10, but in my experience, I have yet to have any problems. If I recall, all of the Sandvik 13C26 Kershaws that I have are done up with the bead blast finish on the blade. I use a Tuf-Cloth every so often to wipe the blades down and I have no issues with rust or corrosion whatsoever.

The 13C26 has been a great performer in my opinion, and the 14C28N is supposed to be an improvement, so I have very high hopes for it as well.

Hope this helps. There is no reason that you shouldn't be buying all of the new Kershaws:D:D

Cheers,
Jon
 
Sandvik steels aren't particularly new, although some of the exact formulations are. Sandvik in Sweden provides a clean iron ore that has been a favorite in Europe for a while. The simple but effective Mora knives have used 12C27 and so have the better French laguioles.

Now these steels are being sold with updated alloys. Both Sandvik and Kershaw have put time and effort in thinking through the best alloys for the particular knives. Actually, the only drawback I ever saw to Kershaw knives was their reluctance to upgrade to more interesting steels. Now they are doing just that. Some of this upgrading may seem experimental, but I bet it's not wildly flailing for an acceptable steel :)
 
Jake, start with post # 12 here. 14C28N is an exclusive for Kershaw that they and Sandvik whipped up. There's some good info from Thomas in that thread.
 
i will try to get my cyclone thread up and running this weekend *school prep has had me running around like crazy*. that should give you a good idea of the durability of 13c26 :D
 
Esav Benyamin said:
Sandvik steels aren't particularly new, although some of the exact formulations are. Sandvik in Sweden provides a clean iron ore that has been a favorite in Europe for a while. The simple but effective Mora knives have used 12C27 and so have the better French laguioles.

Now these steels are being sold with updated alloys. Both Sandvik and Kershaw have put time and effort in thinking through the best alloys for the particular knives. Actually, the only drawback I ever saw to Kershaw knives was their reluctance to upgrade to more interesting steels. Now they are doing just that. Some of this upgrading may seem experimental, but I bet it's not wildly flailing for an acceptable steel :)
Click to expand...

12C27....isn't that the stainless Bark River uses?
 
So is 12C27 as good as,or better than 13C26?If not better or worse,do they have similar qualities?
 
Don't forget, even Ka-bar used the older 12C27 for a while in their Next-Gen line. Ka-bar compared 12C27 to more corrosion resistant 440A/B compromise. 13C26 is considerably more reliable and strong (in my dumb opinion.) 14C28N should be a dream in standard production folders.
 
Remember in assessing steels, that "better" can be a hard term to define. A great large fixed blade steel like 1095 can be a nuisance in a small pocket folder, which doesn't need its hard working abilities but needs more corrosion resistence.

Tell me what you want the blade to do and we can work out which steel has those properties.

Otherwise, get AUS-8 which isn't particularly brittle, doesn't rust readiily, will take a good sharp edge and can be resharpened eeasily. (And needs it. :) )
 
When I say "better" I mean...does it hold an edge well,easy to sharpen/maintain?Is it tough?(but not so tough that it's brittle)If it's like AUS-8 I'm sold.I love that stuff(well at least what SOG & AlMar have done with it)
 
13C26 can take a very good edge, and keep it a while. I've thinned down one of my ENER-G II's to about 25 inclusive, and it will whittle hair. It will also cut you quick and deep, and you don't feel a thing. Don't ask me how I know. :D I used it in the kitchen for a few weeks, and didn't bother with a mineral oil cleaning. It never showed the first sign of rust spots. You could read thru the slices of tomato...

As for sharpening, it's just as easy as 440A or AUS-8 to get a great working edge on it at 40 inclusive.

I'm really looking forward to the 14C28N!
 
SPXTrader said:
I've thinned down one of my ENER-G II's to about 25 inclusive, and it will whittle hair.
Click to expand...

Yes it will. And here's a pic just so you don't think Don Vito is off
his rocker......... ;)

If you've been holding out because of 13C26, you've been missing
out on a great steel.


6dc8.jpg
 
13C26 is a great steel. I have had almost no problems with rust with minimal tuf cloth usage. The edge it can take is great and it is as easy to sharpen as AUS-8 but hold its edge longer (in my experience).

So the idea that 14C28N will be an upgrade... well lets just say it will be a happy day when my OD-1 arrives!
 
Sweet. Thanks guys. I haven't bought a Kershaw in years. I'm thinking I will add some new ones in the near future to my collection.
 
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