Source for O1

Devilnut

Devilnut

Joined
Aug 4, 2003
Messages
246
Hi guys,
I am going to make my first knife(ves). I have heat treated a couple of knives recently and I am going to make a couple for my girlfriend's Dad and Grandpa as gifts. I read Mr. Engnath's site about steels and heat treating and it is simple and easy to understand. These are probably going to be ugly as hell but they will be mine. I am looking to do both of these in O-1, 3/16thx1.25" or thereabouts and I am looking for a good source as the sites I am finding online are pretty expensive. I appreciate your help and welcome any tips you guys might have.
Thanks.
 
What Dan said. I have gotten O1 from them and am completely satisfied. In fact what ever steel they sell I will not hesitate on. I have also gotten D2 and am happy with it. I have two steels of experience with them, O1 and D2. I will be back with them.

RL
 
Yep, that's who I use and they're about to get some more of my money. Fastest shipping I've ever experienced from anyone.
 
I haven't tried those guys but I probably will seing these guys endorse them.
I have bought from McMaster Carr, and was very impressed. Cost about 1/3 of what I've been paying for it locally, shipping was $4. I ordered on a friday and it came on the following monday :D
 
Matt this is hard to believe but when I order from Tool and Die in the morning the steel is on my porch the next afternoon. It just blows me away and has made me utterly loyal to them. That plus I get exactly what I order and they have about every dimension of steel you could dream of.
 
I really appreciate the link Daniel. I ordered some 3/16"x2"x18" I think that will be enough to make a knife or two if I am lucky. I have a question about quenching. I read on the tool and die page that O-1 is an oil quenching steel. Is that a firm requirement? If I quench in hot salt water is that going to ruin the blade? Is there a better method than just immersing the blade in the quenching solution? I realize that with my non-existent level of expertise that these are going to be rough, but I need the practice before I try to make a blade as a gift. I am really glad that there is a forum where I get to interact with REAL knifemakers, I hope that I am able to become as proficient as you gentlemen are, rather than making ugly sharpened steel. I have to say though, there is just SOMETHING about a blade that you have a part in making. I appreciate the advice guys,
Rad
 
awesome... i now have somewhere that i can buy 1/2"-1"x3"x36" a2 :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

you just dont seen enough 1/2"-3/4" thick super heavy choppers these days.... always wanted to make my own log splitting khukuri, and even from hi its hard to find above 1/2"..... aaaaaaaaah thats gonna rock so hard....
 
Devilnut said:
I really appreciate the link Daniel. I ordered some 3/16"x2"x18" I think that will be enough to make a knife or two if I am lucky. I have a question about quenching. I read on the tool and die page that O-1 is an oil quenching steel. Is that a firm requirement? If I quench in hot salt water is that going to ruin the blade? Is there a better method than just immersing the blade in the quenching solution? I realize that with my non-existent level of expertise that these are going to be rough, but I need the practice before I try to make a blade as a gift. I am really glad that there is a forum where I get to interact with REAL knifemakers, I hope that I am able to become as proficient as you gentlemen are, rather than making ugly sharpened steel. I have to say though, there is just SOMETHING about a blade that you have a part in making. I appreciate the advice guys,
Rad
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if you could do a brine quench on O1 or not. Water is too fast a quench by itself. If you do try a brine quench be sure to read up on how much salt to put in it. I remeber reading something about enough that an egg will float but you'll want to get info on that from someone who knows what they're doing. Personally I quench O1 in motor oil. 10W30 warmed to about 110 degrees has worked very well for me.
 
I would not recommend brine for O-1.Use any oil quench.O-1 is brittle enough to start with.A brine quench would be too severe.A good HT is a must with O-1.Make sure to temper it well - two times at two hours each.If you are sawing out the blade profiles,take the scrap strips and do some practice HTs.Put them in the vise after tempering and snap them off.Look at the breaks (and notice if they broke too easily) to determine if you need a higher temper.
Besides,if her dad's knife breaks,he might go and get his shotgun.
SA
 
I get Starrett brand O-1 from the Acklands catalog, in almost any dimension I like. The usual piece is 1/4" by 2" and its all 18" long pieces, it costs about 25.00 bucks I think. That's Canadian dollars, though. Nice steel, precision ground.
 
Stacy,
Yeah, I'd hate to put a dent in our relationship :D That's a great idea about the scrap!
Matt,
I am going to quench it in oil, all the conventional wisdom that I have read can't be wrong, right?

The steel should be here by Fri. I'll post pics of my progress.
Thanks again gents, and any other suggestions are REALLY welcome.
Rad
 
I can't recommend Tool-and-Die enough. Dave Larsen turned me onto them, and they are one of the BEST companies I deal with as a full-time bladesmith.

It's a little late now, but I would have suggested you buy 1/8" thick stock. 1/8" is PLENTY thick enough for even a very robust knife, but much easier to work if you're just getting started with few tools.

Now to make sure I don't sound contradictory, many of my hunters are 3/16" or so at the guard, but they distally taper to the point.

Let us know what you come up with! :D

-Nick-
 
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