Southard Tolk 2nd version

Joined
Nov 19, 2014
Messages
2,633
Hi all,

I’ve just got my Tolk in the mail. Wow!


Specifications (in my measurement)
Overall length: 8.8"
Blade length: 3.7" (3.6" cutting edge)
Handle length: 5.13"
Blade thickness: 0.134"
Weight: 4.3 oz
Blade material: CTS-XHP
Handle material: Ti
Lock: Frame lock​

Tolk_size.JPG

Tolk1.JPG

Tolk1-2.JPG


Being 5” when closed, it felt quite big as compared to my EDC ZT 0770CF at the first look. But with the relatively small weight/size ratio and the thinness, the knife feels lighter.


Tolk2.JPG

Tolk2-2.JPG


The overall fit and finish are great. No complaints at all. Dead on centering, no blade play, perfect lockup, and hydraulic-like operation.


Tolk3.JPG

Tolk_GB.JPG


I can only compare it with production knives like Spyderco Gayle Bradley, as not owning other midtechs or customs, and think the finish is above all and the action is much much smoother than those.


Tolk-grind.JPG


The blade itself looks great. I like the blade shape and the finish a lot. Very nice pair of stonewash and satin finish. The edge didn’t come very sharp, but I don’t mind it and will sharpen the knife over the weekend. I will see how the CTS-XHP edge develops as compared to M390 and M4 and holds.


Tolk5.JPG


The flipper works perfect. Reliable operation from any positions. I am not sure about the thumbstuds. But it might be just that I am not used to it.


Tolk6.JPG


The detent ball holds the blade well. Mine is not too stiff nor soft, just right. Though, I realized that it could accidentally open when the flipper knob is pushed against the pocket liner. I almost stabbed my palm.


Tolk7.JPG


Speaking of pocket, the clip is fine. It works. I feel that I will be wanting to replace it in the future if possible, with a deep carry clip.


Overall, I really like the knife so far. I will post some updates as I sharpen the knife and actually cut things.


Miso
 
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I've done the first round of sharpening on EdgePro Apex from #120 to #2,000 polish tape. My initial concern was the thumbstuds, but they didn't interfere the operation.

Tolk-EdgePro.JPG




The initial edge angle was about 21 DPS, and I took it down to 15 DPS. The bevel is still pretty narrow, indicating the very thin ground of the blade.
It sliced a tomato quite nicely.

Tolk-Tomato.JPG



Although the blade of Tolk is thicker than that of ZT0770CF (3.5 mm vs 3 mm), they cut the tomato equally good.

I think I would need a few more rounds of sharpening to pull out the full potential of the blade, so I will keep cutting things with it for a while.



Miso
 
If mine is any indicator, the thumbstuds work great for opening - use the shape to guide you, both in terms of placement & direction of pressure.
 
If mine is any indicator, the thumbstuds work great for opening - use the shape to guide you, both in terms of placement & direction of pressure.


hhmoore,

Thanks for the suggestion. As you wrote on another thread, I also have to break the detent holding and then fully open the blade with the thumbstuds.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1317455-Opinions-on-the-Tolk?p=15296651#post15296651


To break the detent, I even have to push both of the thumbstuds. Maybe the detent on mine is too stiff. But it may also be just me because this is the only knife I have with thumbstuds.



Miso
 
You have to push BOTH thumbstuds? Does it hurt your finger when using the flipper?

I have noticed that if I don't utilize the "notch" in the stud, I tend to apply pressure in the wrong direction; and realize it when the knife doesn't open properly. A slight variance makes a huge difference. It could be circumstance that my thumbstud is aligned just so. Alternatively, yours could be just a little off - try adjusting the direction in which you apply pressure. (Obviously, the usual warning to make sure you aren't putting pressure on the lockbar applies). Maybe a little lube is in order?

My comment about breaking the detent, then opening the blade, was in reference to a slow controlled opening. If I'm not trying to open the blade slowly, it's a fluid movement; and the blade flies open the way it does when using the flipper.

Enjoy your Tolk!
 
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You have to push BOTH thumbstuds? Does it hurt your finger when using the flipper?

I have noticed that if I don't utilize the "notch" in the stud, I tend to apply pressure in the wrong direction; and realize it when the knife doesn't open properly. A slight variance makes a huge difference. It could be circumstance that my thumbstud is aligned just so. Alternatively, yours could be just a little off - try adjusting the direction in which you apply pressure. (Obviously, the usual warning to make sure you aren't putting pressure on the lockbar applies). Maybe a little lube is in order?

My comment about breaking the detent, then opening the blade, was in reference to a slow controlled opening. If I'm not trying to open the blade slowly, it's a fluid movement; and the blade flies open the way it does when using the flipper.

Enjoy your Tolk!


I had to use BOTH. But no. The flipper opening is really effortless.

After reading your comment, I played around with the thumbstud and tried to push it to slightly different directions.
I can now break the detent with just one thumbstud. It is sore a bit. I still cannot make the blade fly to the end with it......

Thanks!


Miso
 
"Though, I realized that it could accidentally open when the flipper knob is pushed against the pocket liner. I almost stabbed my palm. "

Keeping that blade in tip-up position and pushing the clip "down" until it bottoms out on the lower seam of your pocket...will ensure that that you do NOT cut your palm with an accidental blade opening... The blade is safely "held" in position by the pocket. This is my EDC; the Southard AVO...

 
"Though, I realized that it could accidentally open when the flipper knob is pushed against the pocket liner. I almost stabbed my palm. "

Keeping that blade in tip-up position and pushing the clip "down" until it bottoms out on the lower seam of your pocket...will ensure that that you do NOT cut your palm with an accidental blade opening... The blade is safely "held" in position by the pocket. This is my EDC; the Southard AVO...



Right. I guess I need to change my habit.
I wish Brad Southard makes some Avo again.


Miso
 
I have sharpened the knife a couple of times now and am happy with the edge.

Tolk_stone.JPG



In my subjective comparison, M390 takes the keenest and aggressive polished edge with ZDP-189 as the close second and CPM-M4 behind them.
The CTS-XHP steels on Tolk feels more like CPM-M4. It takes a keen edge but not as aggressive as the other two.
I will see how the edge holds over time.


Miso
 
The list weight of Tolk is 4.7 oz (133 g). But mine weighs only 4.3 oz (123 g). I thought my scale is off, but it did spit out the right weight for Manix LW (82 g). So, it was a pleasant surprise.

Tolk_weight.JPG




Miso
 
hhmoore,

Assuming that you too have the 2nd version of Tolk, I guess this is the result of the improved design, which has not been reflected in the Southard web site? But then, Brad speaks of the new CF Tolk in his Instagram and mentions that the CF version is 1.02 oz lighter than the Ti version, that means the Ti version is still 4.7 oz.
I am a bit confused.



Miso
 
Mine is the first version. I don't normally weigh knives; but I was doing a comparison of a handful of knives for somebody.
Whether there was some change between the runs that resulted in the difficulty you are experiencing with the thumbstud(s), or it can be attributed to the differences in individual knives, I couldn't say...but I'm quite thankful I got the one I did - if I had to choose, I would much rather sacrifice some flipping performance for functional thumbstuds. My XM18 has a weak detent - I can flip it without some wrist assist most of the time; but I really don't bother unless I'm bored, or experimenting. (I've considered grinding the flippers off a couple knives because they get in the way when I open the knife with the thumbstuds...and the whole reason I chose the Tolk over the Avo was that the Avo is a dedicated flipper.)
 
Mine is the first version. I don't normally weigh knives; but I was doing a comparison of a handful of knives for somebody.
Whether there was some change between the runs that resulted in the difficulty you are experiencing with the thumbstud(s), or it can be attributed to the differences in individual knives, I couldn't say...but I'm quite thankful I got the one I did - if I had to choose, I would much rather sacrifice some flipping performance for functional thumbstuds. My XM18 has a weak detent - I can flip it without some wrist assist most of the time; but I really don't bother unless I'm bored, or experimenting. (I've considered grinding the flippers off a couple knives because they get in the way when I open the knife with the thumbstuds...and the whole reason I chose the Tolk over the Avo was that the Avo is a dedicated flipper.)


Since Tolk is "semi-custom", I guess the variability is larger than that for production knives.
Thanks to your advice, I am now able to at least break the detent with just one thumbstud. It is a good option to slowly open the blade.



Miso
 
I tried to further reduce the edge angle with EgdePro from 15 DPS to 13 DPS, but the thumbstuds got on the way.

Tolk_Thumbstud.JPG



The best I could get was about 13.5 DPS.

Tolk_shallow.JPG



Miso
 
Here's a side view of my Tolk, to show the orientation of the thumbstud. The shape made it natural to put my thumb where the red circle is, and apply pressure into the stud toward its center
 
mikejr
hhmoore

Thank you for the advice!
I was able to flip it open using the thumbstuds with a wrist flick, for the first time!


Miso
 
I'd be surprised if you need the wrist flick, once you get used to it. As mentioned earlier, mine deploys as well - if not faster - with the thumbstuds.
 
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