The kiln takes about 45 mins to stabilise at 1060degC.
Once at temperature the stainless foil package is inserted and timing of the soak cycle is started once the temp is back up at 1060degC, soak time for 4mm thick blade is 12mins.
After 12 mins the envelope is removed with pliers and the blade dipped into the quench oil to get the blade temp down to 600degC within 2 mins for the martensitising to take place. Normally I get the blade to the oil within 4 seconds since the process is well rehearsed and tools ready.
When the blade hits the oil is goes into vapor blanket stage, the oil is boiled into gas around the blade so does not come into contact with the blade, it is important to agitate the oil by raising and lifting the blade. Then, the second the oil stop vaporising around the blade the blade must be kept perfectly still else unnecessary warping will take place. The cue is when you stop hearing boiling bubbles. This takes about 6 seconds depending on blade thickness.
When the blade is out of the oil and you're just able to touch it by bare hand it is checked for warping on a marble slab then gently tapped with a rubber mallet on a wooden block to straighten it. If you wait longer than 5mins the steel will be so hard it will shatter if you try to correct a warp.
From here the blades go to the deep freezer to chill to -20degC. During this time the kiln is cooled down to 175degC for the tempering process, then the blades go in for 2 hours in this case of 14C28n Sandvik. I'm going for a hardness of 60HRC. For 58HRC it will be 225degC for 2 hours and for 56HRC 350degC for two hours.
The blades are now hardened and tempered, all black/grey again so now the final grind can start:
Final grind done, blades all shiny again:
With the final grinding done I started wondering just how tough this new Sandvik steel is. I opted for a rather hard blade at 60HRC, especially for the size of the blades. Puma go as low as 56HRC on their broad bladed knives, remember, the larger the knife the more leverage you have and the harder the steel the more brittle it is. Then I recall Miles telling of a chef's knife he dropped and it broke in two! Now since one of these knives is for Miles I decided to do the chop test to put my mind at ease. I took a 7mm piece of scrap round bar from old burglar proofing and a heavy hammer and marked the spot where I'm about to abuse the blade so I'll know where to look for damage. I proceeded to hammer away at the blade spine with the rod on my cute little anvil:
After the first blow the blade was more than halfway through the 7mm round bar, the blade did not shatter and the cutting edge did not chip:tanks:
Two more blows severed the rod and I checked the blade for damage....NONE, not where the hammer struck nor at the cutting edge, all I could see was a smear of mild steel on the cutting edge.
..and not as much as a dent or mark on the spine where the hammer struck:
I will with confidence split a marrow bone or chop a branch off a tree with this 14C28n chef's knife and at 60HRC it's going to keep a keen edge for a while and more

Miles can also shorten table legs in his kitchen if he wishes.
So next up is the sandblasting, stay tuned...
There is a series of tests on youtube on AEB-L ground very thin.
[video=youtube;057CNdALWCA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=057CNdALWCA[/video]
Here is testing of AEB-L in larger blades.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1155729-AEB-L-and-toughness-in-larger-blades
No, but it's perceived value is.
Very good point. Taking into the account the "ruggedly dependable and highly functional" part of their design 14C28N seems an ideal choice. Especially if you take into consideration of what E. Emerson always says (Paraphrasing) A broken knife is not a knife any more, a dull one is still a knife. 14C28N can offer good hardness, thoughness, corrosion resistance and ease of maintenance. My opinion is that they went with the right steel choice for their intended use.