Spacers on stacked leather handles - why?

[Ruari]

I was pondering this the other day and have not found anything concrete enough, so I thought I'd ask here.
Is there a specific purpose for the spacers usually found in stacked leather handles?
I have seen these either next to the guard and pommel or incorporated just shy of the guard and pommel (leather either side).
Is there a definitive answer as to why spacers are used?

 

[screened porch]

My definitive guess is that people think spacers liven up the leather to make the handle prettier.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Purely speculating here, so I could be completely off-base...

I hadn't considered it before, beyond purely aesthetic, embellishment-related reasons. But I wonder if the spacers are adjacent to guards/pommels to minimize direct contact and possible corrosion issues between the leather and the metal guards/pommels of brass, etc. I think of this only because of the verdigris issues I've seen on a brass guard on one of my knives, an older Western L48A, having been in contact with the leather sheath. My L48A does have synthetic spacers at each end of the stacked leather handle, BTW.

I think either the tannins in the leather, or the fact that leather can & will hold moisture, are both valid concerns for corrosion in such knives. So, I could see the spacers having a functional purpose aside from any decorative aspects. Again, just speculating. But it's the one thing that makes some sense to me.

 

[Hammer67]

Purely speculating here, so I could be completely off-base...

I hadn't considered it before, beyond purely aesthetic, embellishment-related reasons. But I wonder if the spacers are adjacent to guards/pommels to minimize direct contact and possible corrosion issues between the leather and the metal guards/pommels of brass, etc. I think of this only because of the verdigris issues I've seen on a brass guard on one of my knives (older Western L48A), having been in contact with the leather sheath. My L48A does have synthetic spacers at each end of the stacked leather handle, BTW.

I think either the tannins in the leather, or the fact that leather can & will hold moisture, are both valid concerns for corrosion in such knives. So, I could see the spacers having a functional purpose aside from any decorative aspects. Again, just speculating. But it's the one thing that makes some sense to me.

I've thought the same thing.

 

[afishhunter]

i thought maybe to spread the compression load evenly on the end washers.

 

[Hickory n steel]

I have thought about the corrosion issue, but it doesn't make so much sense when you consider the blades often having been carbon steel.
Why protect a brass guard and not the more important tang of the knife ?


I have many ideas, but thinking further on them always turns up a reason or two that they're not likely suspects.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

I have thought about the corrosion issue, but it doesn't make so much sense when you consider the blades often having been carbon steel.
Why protect a brass guard and not the more important tang of the knife ?


I have many ideas, but thinking further on them always turns up a reason or two that they're not likely suspects.

I had the same thought about the tang of the blade, while examining my Western L48A and pondering the spacers' purpose. Still don't know if any functional purpose is served by the spacers, other than what I'd guessed at earlier.

With that in mind, I also noticed the tang of my knife hasn't had the same issues with corrosion, in contact with the leather, as the brass guard has with its persistent verdigris, even after storing that knife in it's leather sheath for close to 50 years or so. That knife was given to me sometime in the early '70s, IIRC, as a Christmas present from my father.

 

[BrotherJim]

There's spacers and then there's spacers ...
Basically the same knife from Western, L66 and F66, but aesthetically different leather and spacer configuration
Maybe little more than a visual design feature(?)
My guess ... maybe structurally to aid transition stability of the leather from head to handle to guard

 

[Ruari]

Thanks for the replies all, it seems that there is no empirical reason for them. Obsessed with Edges - I think the verdigris may just be from the leather reacting with the brass, I had this on a Kershaw dagger that was stored in its leather sheath.

 

[afishhunter]

There's spacers and then there's spacers ...
Basically the same knife from Western, L66 and F66, but aesthetically different leather and spacer configuration
Maybe little more than a visual design feature(?)
My guess ... maybe structurally to aid transition stability of the leather from head to handle to guard

Isn't the F66 black Fiber and Aluminum washers; no leather?
My late step pop had one in the '67/'68 period, when I met him.

 

[BrotherJim]

Isn't the F66 black Fiber and Aluminum washers; no leather?
My late step pop had one in the '67/'68 period, when I met him.

D'OH ... I think you are right. I did a very quick search and first two hits were knives for sale on another knife forum.
Both ads said alternating aluminum and black fiber discs
EDIT: ... i think i knew that at one time or another and just forgot LOL. Maybe I've forgotten more than I now know

 

[Hickory n steel]

With that in mind, I also noticed the tang of my knife hasn't had the same issues with corrosion, in contact with the leather, as the brass guard has with it's persistent verdigris, even after storing that knife in it's leather sheath for close to 50 years or so

Probably because of the chrome vanadium steel they used at the time , probably lots of extra chromium in it because I know my late 60's +/- f48a just would not rust and doesn't patina easily st all.
Well the edges of the split tang do, but the blade is persistent.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Probably because of the chrome vanadium steel they used at the time , probably lots of extra chromium in it because I know my late 60's +/- f48a just would not rust and doesn't patina easily st all.
Well the edges of the split tang do, but the blade is persistent.

I'd noticed the persistence of the blade's finish years ago. After I'd spent a lot of time thinning the edge profile (the edge was VERY thick), I followed that with a forced patina using a hot vinegar & water mix. The resulting patina was a subtle light grey - not near as black as when I'd used it on other blades (Schrade's 1095 and Case's CV). The original high-chrome finish on the blade was shinier than I preferred, so I was looking just to knock that shine down a bit, which it did. The tang itself has taken all of that 50-year period to acquire a similar light-grey patina - but with no rust at all. Pretty good steel there.