spalted scomore

Joined
Aug 19, 2005
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761
Have a William Henry with handle scales of spalted scomore, I just got it in a trade in immaculate condition. However the knife itself is at least three years old and I was wondering about the wood do I need to protect it in some it , if so what do you suggest, I don't know if this would has been stabilized or sealed it has a light sheen but is definitely not enameled. It is a fairly obscure knife model s70s with almost no background information to be found. Any information for care maintenance tips for this my only William Henry would be greatly appreciated.
 
A coat of Danish oil, given a week to dry, followed by a coat of wax would reassure me.
 
tim8557,

From your profile you seem to be a learned man....please enlighten me on the process you used to decode "scomore"........:confused:
 
He probably guessed mis-spelled 'sycamore' - or he gives the same advice for all knife scales.

Then again, maybe not!
 
Not to be too chatty, I'm dyslexic I use a voice input program sometimes do not catch errors. I try contacting William Henry had not heard back yet that hasn't been a long time. The scales are also not quite flush they lift up a little bit on either end. I was considering taking them off and sanding them flat. But given my level of expertise is maybe an extravagantly bad idea. is Dutch oil available at large hardware stores like Lowe's, I work there.
 
Larry S. said:
tim8557,

From your profile you seem to be a learned man....please enlighten me on the process you used to decode "scomore"........:confused:

Geeeez Larry, all I told him to do was check with the maker. Besides, I lost my "Decoder Ring" a number of years ago and thusly became less learned:D
 
Yea you can get dutch oil , anywhere.
If the wood looks fine though , why mess with it , unless you want to for fun.

Ok say the finish (whatever it might be) is uneven or wearing off in spots , I would grab some de-natured alcohol and clean off the rest of the finish (pour a little onto a rag and just rub the wood till its clear of finish) , let that dry.
I dont know how dense spalted sycamore is but I'm assuming it's fairly hard.
Also I'm going to assume dutch oil is about the same as tung oil here.
I use tung oil , i put a dab on my finger and work on the wood so theres a little layer of it , let that soak in if it will , if the wood is thirsty , apply more oil until it wont soak up anymore then wipe off with lint free cloth , make sure to rub off any you get on the bolsters/etc.
Let this dry , some woods take a few days for it to stop feeling sticky or tacky , depending on how hard/dense they are.
When it is good and dry , apply a dab more and rub this in with your finger , polish off with a lint free rag , I find this method to leave a nice shine without looking too glossy and fake , make sure though you dont leave prints , it takes a little practice but it's really not hard to do.
If you can take off the scales (like if they used torx screws) , all the better.

After you use your dutch/tung oil , there's no need for wax.
 
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