Speaking of 1095

Mark Williams

Mark Williams

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I made an all purpose camp/tackle box knife for a good friend a year and a half ago out of some 1095 from Admiral steel. This was just a stock removal blade.
He came by the house for a sharpening and I was very happy to see the knife again. It's like seeing a good friend after a long separation.
He has used it hard for various chopping tasks while camping and has used it for chopping the heads of countless frozen minhaiden. I noticed a couple of dings on the spine. he said they were using it for a hammer on a boat motor that was giving the trouble.
The great thing is that it was still very sharp with no chips or rolled edges. I just basically stropped it a few strokes and good as new:)It was rusty but it has seen it's fair share of salt water.
I wish I could say the same for the 1084 I ordered. I've been quenching in oil and have not been able to get the edge as hard as I would expect it to get. Should I switch to water? This is bugging me.
 
You don't say if you are quenching in warm oil or not. If not, heat it to about 125 degrees before quenching.

I would not go to water. There is a good possibility of cracking the blade during quenching.
 
I've been heating the oil to 140 degrees.If somebody wants I'll send em a piece and they can try it out. Might just be crap steel:(

Mark
 
Mark,

Send me about 4 1/2 inches of the 1084. That will give me about six samples to work with. Email me. BTW, do you cryo. If not, I won't on all of them.

What is your HT procedure for 1084, times and temps ?

RL
 
Why thanks Roger, I'll e-mail. I'm forging the 1084 if that makes a differance. I normalize 3 times going by a magnet. I've tried the tripple quench, well make that double quench several times with this stuff and It would always crack on me. I was probably forging too close to finish on those. Maybe. I ve just been taking up to non-mag and quenching in a mixture of... machine-gun oil,lard, paraffin and bee's wax with a dollup of sesame oil for smell.The file skates but bites slightly. It passes the brass rod test. I forged one blade down to less than 1/8" and edge quenched. It had a beautiful line with three distinct zones.It's strange but on a thin edge I can actually put dents into the edge with my thumbnail. Maybe im just expecting topo much from 1084. I'll definately send you some.

Mark
 
We'll figure it out. Make it 4.75 inches long. I forgot to account for the bandsaw blade width.

RL
 
Duh

Three times at 400 for 1.5 hrs by my oven btw. My brains not working well at the moment. I've got a screaming tooth ache.

mark
 
I do both my 1084 & 1095 edge quenched at approx. 150 degrees, three times. I know some folks say multiple quenches on 10xx series steel is a waste but, I firmly disagree. Then I temper the 1084 at 395 degrees and 1095 at closer to 350-375 degrees for 2 hrs., three times. I also wait a day between each quench and each temper but, not between the last quench and first temper. It goes right in the oven after the last quench. After the last temper I let the blades cool to room temp and then stick them in the kitchen freezer over night. This is what works for me.
 
hey Mark try putting goody powders on the tooth that hurts and let it dissolve as much as you can before you drink anything to wash it down, works great for me that way, you will be surprised how quick it makes the tooth quit hurting. :D
 
Why are you using oil? All the things you are describing sounds like either the quench is too slow or your not hot enough. Using oil is slower than water. I cant understand the love for oil and 10 series steel. O1 I can understand or 5160. Water works great and is safe. I do suggest leaving the edge a little thick but other than that no problems.
 
Mark,

I'd like to HT the 1084 both in the forge and in my oven. Your descriptions sounds as if you use no HT oven. I'd like to do it both ways so my results would better suit your available resources and to also benefit myself and perhaps others here that use an oven.

If you have enough to spare, double the steel length I previously asked for.

RL
 
I guess that there is a good argument for when the virtues; or lack of, the brass rod test comes in. It's too subjective on how much the edge should deflect to be a good indicator of a good heat treatment. Maybe I'm just an impatient dumbass that needs to either slow down or do this for real. Pain talking.

Mark
 
I think the best thing you can do is make a rough blade, dont spend alot of time on the cosmetics, ht it and brake it. Observe the grain pattern. This in combination with a deflection test and a file test. A combination of a series of examinations will tell you what is going on. Assuming your hardening the edge only you will see a nice zone of heat treated steel and not. If there isnt much of a zone than my guess its not hot enough or your quench isnt fast enough. I am 100% sure if you bring it crit. and quench in water it will get full hard. That will tell you right there if the steel is workable or not.
 
Can do Roger!

Thanks Hurl,

I think i'll play with the water quench tonight. Hot water or room temp?

Mark
 
I use water that is room temp. Dip the blade point first and dont move while cooling. It is very important that the blade is evenly heated. If not it will warp depending on what side was heated more than the other. I am speaking of even heat on the left side and right side. I use my forge for big stuff but for hunting blades I use a rosebud.
 
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