Spearpoint, Spyderco, would make?

gull wing

gull wing

Joined
May 4, 2002
Messages
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Could you please find a reason to make spearpoint.

I like my Para's, Calypso's, Natives's, but:
There are times when I must have a knife with a more rounded tip. I don't like to mess up my nice pointy Spydercos for this kind of work. Right now I am forced to use a Benchmade, Buck, etc.

I really would like to have a Spyderco with a "spear" type point. Now I do have a Ti Salsa, but it's too small for hard work. The Manix is better, but still a little too slim at the point for rough work. The Stretch looks almost right, but I am not fond of steel handles.

Please note, I am not hard on knives (broke only one tip), so it does not have to be a brute (Strider).

Thanks
 
gull wing

To tell you the truth, your conditions (e.g. "a more rounded tip") and the knives you discount confuse me. If the Manix is "too slim for rough work" I don't know a Spyderco to recommend that would be a more sturdy spearpoint. The only other suggestions I could make is that you consider the Lil' Temp or ATR. Maybe one of these will meet your needs.

David
 
I just recently have come into 2 Spydercos that would qualify as "spear points". They are the Tim Zowada C-56 and the Centofante II C-50. I really love the versatility of "Spear Point" blades during the work day. The Zowada in particular is really mobile in all types of work. I want another Zowada and another Centofante II if anyone knows where they are available I would appreciate knowing. :)
 
I'm baffled, too. Basically, you want a Native with 30% more metal at the tip?

John
 
I like my Spydercos, I have not "discounted" any knife. Perhaps I have not presented my case well enough.

Maybe, a mind picture would help.
The following blade shapes are more like what I am thinking of:
Kabar Bob Dozier folding hunter.
Doug Ritter Grip.
The Paul knife.
These blade shapes would be acceptable.
 
I see, you want a blunt tip! Well, Spyderco doesn't like to make blunt tips, thank God!

I had a Ka-Bar Dozier for a short while recently and I got rid of it just because the tip was way too blunt.

If you are worried about breaking the tip, just use your spyderco until the tip breaks and then re-grind it. It will have more metal near the tip just like you want. I am not being scarcastic, that is what I did with my work knife. If it never breaks, then you don't have to worry about it. If it does break, then you re-grind until you have a stronger point.
 
I have re-ground knife blades before, but I will not purposely misuse a knife.

Spyderco is my favorite knife co. They make a variety of knives, so there is something for everyone. I don't think asking "please" make a spear point is too much.
 
That's just it; they *do* make a spear point (Native).

It just ain't blunt.

John
 
The knives I described in my 2nd post do not have a blunt point. Blunt is not my choice of words.
I am too old to get into an argument, over a minor point, but I don't want to be placed into the category of being unreasonable.
 
Gull Wing,

I think I've got an idea of what you're saying.

You're looking at something that carries more of the knife's width forward towards the point, without tapering like the Native or Centofante. I'm gonna use my own word for that -- "bull nose." My mind's vision is something like a Ritter RSK Mk1. Though not a spearpoint -- it demonstrates how much wider the blade is towards the end, and that the belly turns upward quickly.
 
You might want to check out the grey FRN Goddard, probably closest to the tip style you're looking for in an easily available Spyderco. If you want to consider a "retired" model, the Peter Herbst might also work for you, but may be more difficult to locate. Going back to current production models, the Schempp Persian, although not a spearpoint, might satisfy your preference for a tightly radiused "belly". Finally, if you really do like the Stretch, there's always the option of ripping out the kraton and slapping a pair of thin carbon fiber scales on it (or having someone do it for you).
 
Thank you Deacon, you helped me.
You have an enviable collection of Spydercos. I see the Herbst you speak of, nice.
I also see your Stretch with the canvis Mycarta insert, also nice. I could like the Stretch, but must get past the steel handles. I bought steel Spydies back in the 80's and they were heavy and bit into my hands at the edges.
How heavy are the Stretch's? Does the insert lighten them? How thick is the insert? How does it feel in the hand? I like the idea of changing inserts I may look into it.
 
Hi Gull Wing, thanks for the kind words. The Stretch weighs about 4.5 ounces, don't think swapping the kraton for micarta changed that by much, if anything. The micarta protruded about 3/64" above the surface when I first got it back. Thought that was a bit thick, so I started playing with the sandpaper, it's down to about 1/64" now, and feels really good to me. But, if I were ever to have another one done, I'd save some weight by having the landing pads for the clip drilled out completely, and a couple more fair size holes drilled in the insert cavity before the scales were installed. That "might" get the finished product down under 4 ounces, especially if CF were used instead of micarta. Although I really do like the way the canvas micarta, sanded with 220 grit, feels. Smooth, but slightly "fuzzy" when dry, more like stiff leather than plastic, and it sticks to my hand real nice when wet.
 
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