-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
specific questions on dimensions of AK.
- Thread starter charels
- Start date
i was just wondering, cause i have a 16.5" chiruwa AK, and i use it ALOT. my primary bevel is exactly 5/8"(measuring width of bevel, NOT blade thickness). i want to know the starting width of the primary bevel when it was in new condition so that i may determine exactly how much of this blade has been used. if mine has been used for 1.5 years and the bevel is at 5/8", has it seen alot of use compared to some of your guys blades?... thanks.
btw, my khuck is a blem 16.5" chiruwa ak. it is a hair over 9/16" thick. POB at one inch in front of the cho. it shaves hair effortlessly, and i could make those little curly ribbons from slicing paper. i'm sure it is sharp enough to push cut paper, but it can't because of the thickness of the blade relative to the paper. i think sher made it, but i will never know because there are only markings of the HI symbol. no kami markings, hence its purchase as a blem. i love it though. btw does anyone have any khucks in comparable/comprable(don't know which one) length that meets or exceeds this spine thickness? i'd like to mention that the fullering on the blade coordinated with my own handle modifications resulted in bringing back the POB towards the cho significantly so that it feels alot lighter in the hands, but i can still power chop. plus, with the more neutral feel, i can choke up on my handle, and my AK turns into the best 2lb fighter you've ever seen.
btw, my khuck is a blem 16.5" chiruwa ak. it is a hair over 9/16" thick. POB at one inch in front of the cho. it shaves hair effortlessly, and i could make those little curly ribbons from slicing paper. i'm sure it is sharp enough to push cut paper, but it can't because of the thickness of the blade relative to the paper. i think sher made it, but i will never know because there are only markings of the HI symbol. no kami markings, hence its purchase as a blem. i love it though. btw does anyone have any khucks in comparable/comprable(don't know which one) length that meets or exceeds this spine thickness? i'd like to mention that the fullering on the blade coordinated with my own handle modifications resulted in bringing back the POB towards the cho significantly so that it feels alot lighter in the hands, but i can still power chop. plus, with the more neutral feel, i can choke up on my handle, and my AK turns into the best 2lb fighter you've ever seen.
- Joined
- Mar 5, 1999
- Messages
- 34,096
Thanks for good input, charels.
I've said I hate to put specs up, knowing that it is an absolute necessity, because different kamis have different ideas about how a certain model should be made and these ideas reflect in the final product. Each kami makes a different version of the same knife and even the same kami varies from one run to another. Sher, for example, made his AKs almost a pound heavier than his brother and both had the same knifemaking teacher -- their dad. Same with Bura and Nara. Bura makes sohpisticated khukuris fit for a king. His older brother, Nara, makes down and dirty khukuris for his neighbors and once in a very great while, for us.
All this makes my specs a sham so I don't have a decent answer for you.
------------------
Blessings from the computer shack in Reno.
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Himalayan Imports Archives (33,000 + posts)
I've said I hate to put specs up, knowing that it is an absolute necessity, because different kamis have different ideas about how a certain model should be made and these ideas reflect in the final product. Each kami makes a different version of the same knife and even the same kami varies from one run to another. Sher, for example, made his AKs almost a pound heavier than his brother and both had the same knifemaking teacher -- their dad. Same with Bura and Nara. Bura makes sohpisticated khukuris fit for a king. His older brother, Nara, makes down and dirty khukuris for his neighbors and once in a very great while, for us.
All this makes my specs a sham so I don't have a decent answer for you.
------------------
Blessings from the computer shack in Reno.
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Himalayan Imports Archives (33,000 + posts)
- Joined
- Mar 5, 1999
- Messages
- 34,096
Not much help is it, charels. But this is what makes these khukuris what they are -- no two are exactly alike and there's something nice about that.
------------------
Blessings from the computer shack in Reno.
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Himalayan Imports Archives (33,000 + posts)
------------------
Blessings from the computer shack in Reno.
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Himalayan Imports Archives (33,000 + posts)
- Joined
- May 18, 1999
- Messages
- 15,395
:
You got that right Bro!!!
I find it really strange that two of the same model that looks exactly alike can be so different yet similar in the way they each handle.
My GRS's are the ones particularlly in mind.
Still gotta get me a Baby GRS.
Hey Ol'Jim do you think that's a sign of HIKV!!!
I'm beginnng to think that you may be right and that I am immune as well.
Yvsa, going back to his other delusions and worlds of wonder, seeking yet more meds.
You got that right Bro!!!
I find it really strange that two of the same model that looks exactly alike can be so different yet similar in the way they each handle.
My GRS's are the ones particularlly in mind.
Still gotta get me a Baby GRS.
Hey Ol'Jim do you think that's a sign of HIKV!!!
I'm beginnng to think that you may be right and that I am immune as well.
Yvsa, going back to his other delusions and worlds of wonder, seeking yet more meds.
excuse me, but i have to ask you something Yvsa. if i had a rough sketch of a knife, and the required specifications to build it, how much would it cost to commission you to build a wood model out of the pics and specs for me? i'm asking you, because of the wood model you built for the YCS. if the YCS is such a great knife, then the wood one had to have been superb. if you can't, could you please provide some info?
1. what type of wood blanks do you use
2. where do you get the wood blanks
3. what are the basic tools required to make a decent wood model
thank you for your time.
charels
1. what type of wood blanks do you use
2. where do you get the wood blanks
3. what are the basic tools required to make a decent wood model
thank you for your time.
charels
- Joined
- Mar 5, 1999
- Messages
- 34,096
Yvsa is the master model maker.
------------------
Blessings from the computer shack in Reno.
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Himalayan Imports Archives (33,000 + posts)
------------------
Blessings from the computer shack in Reno.
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Himalayan Imports Archives (33,000 + posts)
- Joined
- May 18, 1999
- Messages
- 15,395
:
Thanks for your kind words Charels, but you give me way to much credit.
I would volunteer to do it for you, but I have enough problems it seems trying to get things done that I've said I would like the HI Tomahawk and new HI Bowie. But it's probably for the best right now until Gelbu gets some more master kamis hired to take up the slack in Birghorka. I know how much hell it is too try and work with a skeleton crew just to get standard production out.
Anyway, the model for the YCS was made from a piece of plywood with the layers cut off where needed and other pieces glued on in the handle area to make it thick enough. ( I have some thin solid core plywood to do this with.)
Plywood really tests a knife's edge due to all the glue between layers.
Or you can use a nice piece of straight grained white pine that's easy to carve. That's what I started with, but the blade warped on me and I started over, still have the 1st incompleted one too.
As far as tools go you really don't need anything special, it just may take a bit more time with all hand tools.
I have a Dremel with a flex shaft and a Ryobi without. And the 2"X 72" Grizz grinder makes things go more quickly as well.
The 1st step is to draw a really accurate depiction of what you have in mind. I like to use heavy artists paper or card stock for that. Make the drawing as detailed as possible so you won't forget to transfer everything to the wood.
Then cut it out accurately and trace around the pattern on your wood.
If you're using straight grained white pine make the blade run in the same direction as the grain to insure strength. Cross grained is more apt to break.
Then cut around the lines. While you're at it cut any thin pieces needed to thicken the handle area if needed and glue them in place.
Build all your thick areas before starting to carve.
You can use a knife very carefully to remove the larger areas that's not going to be part of the knife.
When you have it pretty well roughed down then you can go to rasps and files for the final shapeing.
Then use sandpaper to finish it up.
The model doesn't need to be absolutely smooth and perfect as the kamis will do that in the steel.
After you have it finished to your specs refer to your original drawing and using a pen carefully draw in the details where needed.
( Paint it 1st if you want, but it's not needed, although I did paint the YCS model)
I cut out small diamonds of paper and pasted them onto the handle of the YCS model for the inlay and then used a pen to mark the horn inlay dots in the bone.
I also cut paper circles for the
Yin Yang Symbols and drew the dark side in with a pen and then glued them on where I wanted them.
Since I had the YCS painted to represent steel and wood I used model car paint to depict the copper and brass inlay in the Sword of Shiva.
On the AK Bowie model I actually cut the heads off roofing nails and drilled small holes in the handle to push them (with glue) in representing the rivets to hold the scales on.
I used a black "Mark-a-lot" to draw the buffalo horn scales, leaveing the wood plain in the center for the exposed tang.
An important thing to remember is that the kamis usually will not make the real knife "Exactly" the same as the model, But they usually get it within 95%-98% and that's not bad at all.
Both the AK Bowie and the YCS came out within these percentages.
And the kamis actually improved on the fuller desgn I had in the model YCS.
The only thing that I would have really liked 100% is the curve in the model's handle. The original handle had about 3/8" more drop, but I do understand why it wasn't done after doing a curved handle myself.
Hope this helps!!!!
And you can do it since it's your vision and you know exactly what's in your mind.
And with all of that.... Exactly what do you have in mind if you don't mind sharing it with us?
------------------
>>>>---Yvsa-G@WebTV.net---->®
"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
Thanks for your kind words Charels, but you give me way to much credit.
I would volunteer to do it for you, but I have enough problems it seems trying to get things done that I've said I would like the HI Tomahawk and new HI Bowie. But it's probably for the best right now until Gelbu gets some more master kamis hired to take up the slack in Birghorka. I know how much hell it is too try and work with a skeleton crew just to get standard production out.
Anyway, the model for the YCS was made from a piece of plywood with the layers cut off where needed and other pieces glued on in the handle area to make it thick enough. ( I have some thin solid core plywood to do this with.)
Plywood really tests a knife's edge due to all the glue between layers.
Or you can use a nice piece of straight grained white pine that's easy to carve. That's what I started with, but the blade warped on me and I started over, still have the 1st incompleted one too.
As far as tools go you really don't need anything special, it just may take a bit more time with all hand tools.
I have a Dremel with a flex shaft and a Ryobi without. And the 2"X 72" Grizz grinder makes things go more quickly as well.
The 1st step is to draw a really accurate depiction of what you have in mind. I like to use heavy artists paper or card stock for that. Make the drawing as detailed as possible so you won't forget to transfer everything to the wood.
Then cut it out accurately and trace around the pattern on your wood.
If you're using straight grained white pine make the blade run in the same direction as the grain to insure strength. Cross grained is more apt to break.
Then cut around the lines. While you're at it cut any thin pieces needed to thicken the handle area if needed and glue them in place.
Build all your thick areas before starting to carve.
You can use a knife very carefully to remove the larger areas that's not going to be part of the knife.
When you have it pretty well roughed down then you can go to rasps and files for the final shapeing.
Then use sandpaper to finish it up.
The model doesn't need to be absolutely smooth and perfect as the kamis will do that in the steel.
After you have it finished to your specs refer to your original drawing and using a pen carefully draw in the details where needed.
( Paint it 1st if you want, but it's not needed, although I did paint the YCS model)
I cut out small diamonds of paper and pasted them onto the handle of the YCS model for the inlay and then used a pen to mark the horn inlay dots in the bone.
I also cut paper circles for the
Yin Yang Symbols and drew the dark side in with a pen and then glued them on where I wanted them.
Since I had the YCS painted to represent steel and wood I used model car paint to depict the copper and brass inlay in the Sword of Shiva.
On the AK Bowie model I actually cut the heads off roofing nails and drilled small holes in the handle to push them (with glue) in representing the rivets to hold the scales on.
I used a black "Mark-a-lot" to draw the buffalo horn scales, leaveing the wood plain in the center for the exposed tang.
An important thing to remember is that the kamis usually will not make the real knife "Exactly" the same as the model, But they usually get it within 95%-98% and that's not bad at all.
Both the AK Bowie and the YCS came out within these percentages.
And the kamis actually improved on the fuller desgn I had in the model YCS.
The only thing that I would have really liked 100% is the curve in the model's handle. The original handle had about 3/8" more drop, but I do understand why it wasn't done after doing a curved handle myself.
Hope this helps!!!!
And you can do it since it's your vision and you know exactly what's in your mind.
And with all of that.... Exactly what do you have in mind if you don't mind sharing it with us?
------------------
>>>>---Yvsa-G@WebTV.net---->®
"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
- Joined
- Mar 5, 1999
- Messages
- 34,096
Thanks for great help, Bro.
------------------
Blessings from the computer shack in Reno.
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Himalayan Imports Archives (33,000 + posts)
------------------
Blessings from the computer shack in Reno.
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Himalayan Imports Archives (33,000 + posts)
thanks for the info Yvsa. the design i am thinking of right now has a special handle configuration that i was thinking about, and i want it to have a fully curving blade. i have a pic that i drew, and i will try to post as soon as possible. thank you again Yvsa.
charels
charels
- Joined
- Mar 5, 1999
- Messages
- 34,096
charels, you need a very accurate model and you must be specific in detail or you are not going to get what you want.
------------------
Blessings from the computer shack in Reno.
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Himalayan Imports Archives (33,000 + posts)
------------------
Blessings from the computer shack in Reno.
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ
Himalayan Imports Archives (33,000 + posts)
- Joined
- May 18, 1999
- Messages
- 15,395
:
You're welcome Charels and Bro.
Glad I can be of help.
And Charels what Uncle Bill is saying about detail is exactly right.
The more that can be carved into or drawn on the model, like the inlay and such, the better off you are and the better the steel prototype.
But don't write on the blade as the kamis will try to duplicate that as well.
(VBESEG)
If the knife needs any specific instructions that can't be put on the model write them on a seperate piece of paper and send it along with the model to Uncle Bill.
He asked me several questions about the YCS model, like what was the inlay to be made of and what the colors meant on the Sword of Shiva, representing the brass and copper inlay there. When you send your model include your phone number so Uncle Bill can call you if needed to clarify something before he sends it to Nepal.
And if he does that then your model has passed the 1st test and approval.
And something that most of us don't think about or know is that the very _First One_ made in steel by the H.I.Kami's from a wood or other material model is actually a _Prototype_ as well.
It has to meet your approval to an extent as well as Uncle Bill's and it has to be "Proofed" to make sure the design is practical and that no adjustments are needed to put the knife in production, if it's to be a production model.
The AK Bowie and the YCS both "Proofed" out well. The AK Bowie production model had some minor changes from the steel prototype I recieved. This was in the handle area in order to make it more comfortable to hang onto as the original had the handle slabs made to square and I rounded them off by hand.
And doing this is FUN!!!!
I believe that H.I. is probably the only knife manufacturer in the world where a person can submit a model to be custom made to their specs for so little cost compared to what you get back in return!!!
H.I.Khukuri's and other bladed products RULE!!!
------------------
>>>>---Yvsa-G@WebTV.net---->®
"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
You're welcome Charels and Bro.
Glad I can be of help.
And Charels what Uncle Bill is saying about detail is exactly right.
The more that can be carved into or drawn on the model, like the inlay and such, the better off you are and the better the steel prototype.
But don't write on the blade as the kamis will try to duplicate that as well.
If the knife needs any specific instructions that can't be put on the model write them on a seperate piece of paper and send it along with the model to Uncle Bill.
He asked me several questions about the YCS model, like what was the inlay to be made of and what the colors meant on the Sword of Shiva, representing the brass and copper inlay there. When you send your model include your phone number so Uncle Bill can call you if needed to clarify something before he sends it to Nepal.
And if he does that then your model has passed the 1st test and approval.
And something that most of us don't think about or know is that the very _First One_ made in steel by the H.I.Kami's from a wood or other material model is actually a _Prototype_ as well.
It has to meet your approval to an extent as well as Uncle Bill's and it has to be "Proofed" to make sure the design is practical and that no adjustments are needed to put the knife in production, if it's to be a production model.
The AK Bowie and the YCS both "Proofed" out well. The AK Bowie production model had some minor changes from the steel prototype I recieved. This was in the handle area in order to make it more comfortable to hang onto as the original had the handle slabs made to square and I rounded them off by hand.
And doing this is FUN!!!!
I believe that H.I. is probably the only knife manufacturer in the world where a person can submit a model to be custom made to their specs for so little cost compared to what you get back in return!!!
H.I.Khukuri's and other bladed products RULE!!!
------------------
>>>>---Yvsa-G@WebTV.net---->®
"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.