Spiders........How to

Joined
Jul 23, 1999
Messages
1,409
A couple of folks have asked how, so I'll do my best to explain it in words........
The blade is composed of four seperate bars.
Three bars of "jellyroll" damascus. Each of these bars consist of 14 layers, rolled up just like a jellyroll pastry.
The fourth bar is "radial" pattern, made by welding up a 25 layer billet, cutting it across the layers lengthwise, then rewelding it in a four way (sorta looks like a bowtie before welding.) Once all the bars are done, I reduced each to 1/2" squares X approx. 12" long. The four square bars were placed together with 15N20 layers between each bar, sort of like an + with a bar in each corner. This arrangement was welded into a 1" square bar, annealed, and the cut 2/3 of the way through on opposing sides for the length of the billet. Once this is done, all that remains is to fold the billet open at each of the cuts (very carefully, the steel will tear an the base of the cut(s) if forced). Then gently flatten the whole thing out, anneal, and then go to grinding a blade.
There.......I knew it would be clear as mud without pictures!
smile.gif

It's a lot eaiser than it sounds, just takes a lot of time and materials.
http://www.mtn-webtech.com/~caffrey

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Ed Caffrey
"The Montana Bladesmith"


 
Ed, I figgered out the jellyroll last summer, they are fun to make, but ya kinda lost me on the radial pattern, did you resquare the bar with a diagonal pattern before welding? Type a lil' s l o w e r this time my brain don't work too fast this late in the day!
Thanks..... Mike
 
Uh, that is some very impressive work, Ed. You should be very proud. Have you made enough of this pattern to try some cutting tests? I am curious..I don't think i have seen any one address the issue of function of the mosaic type damascus. I guess it all depends on the extreme edge structure. How's the lateral strength of this type of stuff? I do not mean to suggest any negative implications here of this sort of work. I remain your humbleness.
 
Strenght of the mosaic if done correctly will be as good as carbon steel, Last month we were down at Tim Foster's digs in ElDorado Ar. and made several billets, two of which were made into knives and then tested to distruction. They performed as well as any carbon steel.

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old pete
 
I have not done extensive tests on this particular pattern. However, everything that leaves my shop must pass my cutting tests, or else it doesn't leave. I use 1/2" hemp to test. It's really simple, if the finished blade will cut at least 40 cuts off the rope,and still have the capability to grab my arm hair, AND pass the brass rod test, then it gets to go to a new home. Otherwise, it becomes an orphan. This is one of the reasons I use 1084/15N20 for most of my damascus. 15N20 is basically 1075 with a 3.5% nickel content. So what I'm doing is merging two carbon steels, therefore everything is hardenable (and much more predictable in the heat treating process), the 3.5% nickel is just an added benifit that gives the mixture a brilliant contrast. Many of the other Mosaics that I have produced have been tested to destruction, with results as Pete specified. Over the years I have found that a blade that passes the brass rod test will routinely pass all of the ABS test too. I have come to trust the brass rod test, and tout it as a good indicator of a blade's performance characteristics.
http://www.mtn-webtech.com/~caffrey

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Ed Caffrey
"The Montana Bladesmith"


 
Ed, I appreciate the information. Like some, I am mostly a look, see, and do person. I kinda got the general drift. It took me two weeks to figure out how Don Fogg made the feather damascus that was on the cover of Blade on time. E-mailed him to confirm and made a wrong turn on the last fold. Got a different looking random that time. I have a couple of hammer-ins scheduled this year so I may be able to get a few classes in on the mosiac. Thanks again for the info.

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Ray Kirk
www.tah-usa.net/raker
 
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