- Joined
- Jul 23, 1999
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- 1,409
A couple of folks have asked how, so I'll do my best to explain it in words........
The blade is composed of four seperate bars.
Three bars of "jellyroll" damascus. Each of these bars consist of 14 layers, rolled up just like a jellyroll pastry.
The fourth bar is "radial" pattern, made by welding up a 25 layer billet, cutting it across the layers lengthwise, then rewelding it in a four way (sorta looks like a bowtie before welding.) Once all the bars are done, I reduced each to 1/2" squares X approx. 12" long. The four square bars were placed together with 15N20 layers between each bar, sort of like an + with a bar in each corner. This arrangement was welded into a 1" square bar, annealed, and the cut 2/3 of the way through on opposing sides for the length of the billet. Once this is done, all that remains is to fold the billet open at each of the cuts (very carefully, the steel will tear an the base of the cut(s) if forced). Then gently flatten the whole thing out, anneal, and then go to grinding a blade.
There.......I knew it would be clear as mud without pictures!
It's a lot eaiser than it sounds, just takes a lot of time and materials.
http://www.mtn-webtech.com/~caffrey
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Ed Caffrey
"The Montana Bladesmith"
The blade is composed of four seperate bars.
Three bars of "jellyroll" damascus. Each of these bars consist of 14 layers, rolled up just like a jellyroll pastry.
The fourth bar is "radial" pattern, made by welding up a 25 layer billet, cutting it across the layers lengthwise, then rewelding it in a four way (sorta looks like a bowtie before welding.) Once all the bars are done, I reduced each to 1/2" squares X approx. 12" long. The four square bars were placed together with 15N20 layers between each bar, sort of like an + with a bar in each corner. This arrangement was welded into a 1" square bar, annealed, and the cut 2/3 of the way through on opposing sides for the length of the billet. Once this is done, all that remains is to fold the billet open at each of the cuts (very carefully, the steel will tear an the base of the cut(s) if forced). Then gently flatten the whole thing out, anneal, and then go to grinding a blade.
There.......I knew it would be clear as mud without pictures!

It's a lot eaiser than it sounds, just takes a lot of time and materials.
http://www.mtn-webtech.com/~caffrey
------------------
Ed Caffrey
"The Montana Bladesmith"