Spinning Hinderer XM-18 Handle Screws

traumkommode

traumkommode

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So, I have a 3.5" Vintage Series XM-18, and the female ends of all three handle screws are spinning. The pivot was fairly well drenched in Loctite, but fortunately the spanner bit on the other side takes care of that. Not so with the single sided handle screws...

I have tried pressing a rubber band over the head of the female side, still spins. I have tried putting a drop of super glue on the edge of the female end head at the handle, and that didn't work. Just spun right through that, too. Any suggestions? I've called Hinderer but they don't like to answer the phone...

Thanks!
 
Try to slightly tighten then loosen the screws. Repeat with incremental more tightening force then try loosening. If not successful after a few cycles, stop as you might reach a point of damaging the screw or female fastener. Good luck...
 
Do you need to remove these screws?
Do you have replacements for these female components?

There are a few ways to loosen handle screws but most ways require permanent modification.
 
Had to send back to Hinderer. The previous owner had loctited them and denied doing it, and Hinderer had to drill them out and replace the liner and the hardware. Wasn't cheap, I wasn't happy about it.
 
incaorchid said:
Do you need to remove these screws?
Do you have replacements for these female components?

There are a few ways to loosen handle screws but most ways require permanent modification.
Click to expand...

traumkommode said:
So, I have a 3.5" Vintage Series XM-18, and the female ends of all three handle screws are spinning. The pivot was fairly well drenched in Loctite, but fortunately the spanner bit on the other side takes care of that. Not so with the single sided handle screws...

I have tried pressing a rubber band over the head of the female side, still spins. I have tried putting a drop of super glue on the edge of the female end head at the handle, and that didn't work. Just spun right through that, too. Any suggestions? I've called Hinderer but they don't like to answer the phone...

Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
Late to the party but I just dealt with the same situation. I was planning on drilling them out and had new hardware in my dlt cart but came up with one final attempt that worked perfectly.

5 minute gorilla brand clear epoxy. I mixed up a batch and covered the flat, female side of the hardware and overlapped the epoxy onto the frame of the lock side approx. 1/16". Patiently let it set up for 24hrs and with a quick twist of the torx, they came out easily. Left the screw inside the female side and pressed through the frame to separate the epoxy from the frame and then peeled the epoxy from the flat head of the female part of the hardware. Easy peasy with no damage at all. Can't find the slightest sign this "fix" even took place.

Can't say this will work for everyone, but it just saved me. Hope it helps someone.
 
I'm going to give Drand1020's method a try. I locktited the things solid using traumkommode's method.
 
I hope it works as well for you as it did for me. Don't be afraid to add plenty of overlap. It all pops off easily when dry. Just be sure to let it set up and dry completely.
 
ColdDesert said:
I'm going to give Drand1020's method a try. I locktited the things solid using traumkommode's method.
Click to expand...

What I have done several times on used knives that came like this, is the following, in particular if not all 3 screws but only one or 2 turn through:

Take out the Pivot and the screws that you can remove. Then, with your finger push the liner away from the lock-side. That way you put friction on the scale nuts. Torquing like this is easier when there are fewer screws to get out.

Roland.
 
Drand1020 said:
I hope it works as well for you as it did for me. Don't be afraid to add plenty of overlap. It all pops off easily when dry. Just be sure to let it set up and dry completely.
Click to expand...
I tried it, it worked like a charm. I was careful not to get epoxy on my scale. Note I don’t have any coating like battle blue or stonewash bronze on mine. The hardest part is waiting the 24 hours!
 
I am surprised that Hinderer actually worked on a knife with this problem. Their website is pretty clear that it is your problem to deal with. I get nervous buying used ones that might have this situation. This thread is helpful if you do have that problem.

I wish Hinderer made the female ends like the half track with the ability to use an allen wrench or driver.
 
As a last-ditch effort, you can use a Dremel with a cut off wheel and cut a slot in the nut to use a flat head screwdriver to hold it. Then buy new hardware. At least the hardware is pretty easy to get.
 
Glenn Goodlett said:
As a last-ditch effort, you can use a Dremel with a cut off wheel and cut a slot in the nut to use a flat head screwdriver to hold it. Then buy new hardware. At least the hardware is pretty easy to get.
Click to expand...
isnt the hardware on the hinderers counter sunk fully below the scales? i thought the 3 torx to the back would be easy to mess up a scale if you even used a dremel, but i guess they do have smaller cut off wheels or you could grind a wheel down, but i still think the diameter is too large for a small torx.
 
311climber said:
isnt the hardware on the hinderers counter sunk fully below the scales? i thought the 3 torx to the back would be easy to mess up a scale if you even used a dremel, but i guess they do have smaller cut off wheels or you could grind a wheel down, but i still think the diameter is too large for a small torx.
Click to expand...
Use the super thin and fragile brown cut off wheels. With diagonal cutters, cut the wheel down to like 0.25 inch diameter and increase the speed to max and go at it. Also use the right sized screw driver to fit the situation.
 
Glenn Goodlett said:
Use the super thin and fragile brown cut off wheels. With diagonal cutters, cut the wheel down to like 0.25 inch diameter and increase the speed to max and go at it. Also use the right sized screw driver to fit the situation.
Click to expand...
the super shitty brown ones that break all the time? im pretty sure the head of the shaft that holds the wheel is 1/8 to 3/16 inches in diameter. thats the bit itself. so just to clarify you can bring that blade down to 1/16 of an inch on each side of the bit to create a 1/4 inch overall wheel diameter? that sounds impossible, do you have any photos of this? ive used alot of both the crappy ones and the composite wheels and dont see how one can get it to that size. ill measure one of my hinderer folders this weekend but im pretty sure 1/4 is too big for the back torx, but not 100 percent
 
I agree that it is less than ideal. I have done it, but not on a Hinderer.

Only other idea that comes to mind is to center punch it then get a small hole started and try to get a screw extractor started in it. I have not had good luck with small screw extractors though.
 
Drand1020 said:
Late to the party but I just dealt with the same situation. I was planning on drilling them out and had new hardware in my dlt cart but came up with one final attempt that worked perfectly.

5 minute gorilla brand clear epoxy. I mixed up a batch and covered the flat, female side of the hardware and overlapped the epoxy onto the frame of the lock side approx. 1/16". Patiently let it set up for 24hrs and with a quick twist of the torx, they came out easily. Left the screw inside the female side and pressed through the frame to separate the epoxy from the frame and then peeled the epoxy from the flat head of the female part of the hardware. Easy peasy with no damage at all. Can't find the slightest sign this "fix" even took place.

Can't say this will work for everyone, but it just saved me. Hope it helps someone.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the info. Was hoping to find some potential solutions. Will be giving this a try.
 
Wedging something hard in between the scales while loosening the screws won't work?
 
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