Splitting Axe Geometry Discussion and Database

[bengriswold]

Initially this post was meant as a response in another thread about Tom Clark splitting axes http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1459706-Tom-Clark-wood-splitter-and-innovator/page2 and technique but It seemed I was starting a new topic so I am doing that instead here:

Twisting technique aside (which i use when appropriate) I am fairly obsessed with splitting geometry and technique both with mauls and axes. Here I will talk about Splitting axes specifically. After lots of research I have also found, like peg, and Benjamin (fortytwoblades) alluded to(other post), that the thicker poll area is key to an effective splitting AXE.

This is a picture of my Stihl PA 20 splittling hatchet. While this little STIHL axe (oxhead, aka ochsenkopf) is about 3lbs with a 20" handle, (i use it on a high stump) it splits more effectively Than my other 3 3.5, 4 and it even competes with my 5 lb axes depending on the wood. The reason I believe is due to 3 main things: Thickness of the axe as measured in the above photo , short bit, and slightly concave cheeks.

So my question for you Axejunkies is this: I would love it if you guys would measure the thickest section of your favorite splitting axes (no mauls) (as viewed above) and post them here. If you can include brand name and head weight all the more better. I don't know if this information has been cataloged or if it is ever even advertised. I believe it is one of the more important measurements to consider when purchasing an axe for splitting but its rarely easily accessible. I buy lots of used axes at antique stores, flea markets, ebay.. partly because I am a Junkie and partly because I feel I am doing this unofficial research. What I have found is that most 3 to 5lb axe's I are not more 1.25" thick at their widest point. Do any of you know old styles or makers that have thicker width in this area? I almost bought a True Temper rafting pattern (5lb head) and I wish i would have now as my Plumb rafting axe is not as thick as the true temper which as I recall the seller said was 1-5/8" across the widest part of the eye/poll area. My plumb 5lb rafter is less than this (not at home to measure but i will later) Peg - I actually bought my Plumb on ebay partly because of you enthusiasm about it. I share your sentiments and approach to splitting and appreciate your insights. I really like it but i don't love it so I am wondering if you could provide some dimensions specifically thickest part of the cheeks as viewed from above and how long your axe is from center of cutting edge to the poll.

Another thing that I've found to also improve the effectiveness is a shorter length in the bit; an example being with older heavily used axes that have clearly lost an inch or more of the bit length. I believe the reason that this improves splitting is that essentially it steepens the angle of wedge shape- which allows the prying of the widest part of the axe to take place sooner. Also, the thickness of any axe increases as you move back from the cutting edge allowing a wider bevel (than you might normally put on a thinner edge) that can more smoothly transition to the cheeks. I first heard this "old worn down bit theory from Peter Vido and I have noticed my axes with overly long bits( both my 5lbers) do not perform as well for splitting as I believe they could with some of these modifications.

The last point i will make is Concave Cheeks. While I am not overly fond of the fiskars simply because of the look and feel, the x series splitters do have all the the above geometry considerations integrated into their axes. From what i understand, a slightly concave grind for a few inches through the cheek area reduces the drag after the initial splitting path has been started. While i don't have any experience with with very distinct phantom bevels i imagine the principle of less drag applies here as well.

I will reiterate again What i hope this thread can become:
1. A Catalog of axe head thickness measurements with pictures (hopefully) for the betterment of our splitting arsenal and more informed purchases
2. A discussion about Splitting geometry focused on splitting axes and others personal experience and "research"

 

[Woodcraft]

My opinion is the added thickness of a splitting axe should be in the cheeks before the poll. The same reason why those old axes with an inch of bit gone to the file work so well. There are examples of this to be found.

 

[Square_peg]

I don't think a long bit causes any problem.

 

[bengriswold]

My opinion is the added thickness of a splitting axe should be in the cheeks before the poll. The same reason why those old axes with an inch of bit gone to the file work so well. There are examples of this to be found.

I agree. Some manufacturers have the widest part at or around where the eye begins, some just after with a slight taper towards the poll and others (fiskars for example) just before. With my rafting axe, the thickest part is in the poll. With a tough grained wood and a long bit the axe loses to much momentum before the thick part can effectively separate the wood. Where Fiskars really got it right is that really sharp taper from the edge to the widest part of the cheeks in front of the eye. I think there is a lot to be learned from that geometry despite me not personally loving them I think they are well designed and work well for certain tasks. Like Tom Clark said "I just really love wood" and that includes wood in my handles.

Plumb 5lb rafting

Plumb vs Stihl profile

 

[bengriswold]

I don't think a long bit causes any problem.

Maybe its my technique I still have a lot to learn - I split a 3 cords of sweet gum and Red Pine this summer so that stuff had me questioning my sanity and my splitting ability. Furthermore the twist technique along with that rafting axe didn't seem to work on this really stringy type wood. The only thing that was working was wedges to quarter, brute force with a maul or heavy splitting axe, precision following direction of the grain, and a hatchet to cut through the stringy mess when everything was apart but still together. For a month i literally thought to myself "I've lost all my splitting skills because I am getting older"

I guess your method of twisting is really not taking into account the poll actually entering the "split" and forcing the wood apart since your relying on a levering action and less on the shape of the wedge. Now I am feeling glad you didn't agree with me cause it forced me to clarify my experience being specific to axe blows that follow all the way through the split due to "impossible, un-lever-able grain. "

 

[garry3]

My opinion is the added thickness of a splitting axe should be in the cheeks before the poll. The same reason why those old axes with an inch of bit gone to the file work so well. There are examples of this to be found.

I have a worn out Ideal Ridge pattern that may have been a boys axe. I hung it on hatchet handle on a whim. It is a rather impressive kindling hatchet. Maybe a dedicated splitting hatchet could keep up with it, but I am not at all sure.

 

[Square_peg]

I guess your method of twisting is really not taking into account the poll actually entering the "split" and forcing the wood apart since your relying on a levering action and less on the shape of the wedge. Now I am feeling glad you didn't agree with me cause it forced me to clarify my experience being specific to axe blows that follow all the way through the split due to "impossible, un-lever-able grain. "

I use my Plumb both ways, as a simple wedge and as a 'twist' splitter. Depends on how the wood is splitting.

I can relate to what you're talking about when splitting wood with a coarse intertwined grain. The stuff is murder to split. Wedges with a concave bevel make the initial splits in those rounds. I also use hatchets to cut connecting wood. Some people would give up on this wood. But it burns so wonderfully. I try everything. Wedges, mauls, axes. I've found very little that a maul will split that my Plumb wont. But it does happen.

And to keep on topic for the post, L-R:
Warren 1.55" (all measurement taken inside any mushrooming)
3.5 lb. Woodslasher - didn't measure
Walters 1.525"
Plumb 1.525"

 

[bengriswold]

I have a worn out Ideal Ridge pattern that may have been a boys axe. I hung it on hatchet handle on a whim. It is a rather impressive kindling hatchet. Maybe a dedicated splitting hatchet could keep up with it, but I am not at all sure.

That's cool Garry. Snap a pic if you get a chance. I have a Northern King that I hung on a hatchet handle- similar story-and its an excellent kindling splitter too.

I use my Plumb both ways, as a simple wedge and as a 'twist' splitter. Depends on how the wood is splitting.

I can relate to what you're talking about when splitting wood with a coarse intertwined grain. The stuff is murder to split. Wedges with a concave bevel make the initial splits in those rounds. I also use hatchets to cut connecting wood. Some people would give up on this wood. But it burns so wonderfully. I try everything. Wedges, mauls, axes. I've found very little that a maul will split that my Plumb wont. But it does happen.

And to keep on topic for the post, L-R:
Warren 1.55" (all measurement taken inside any mushrooming)
3.5 lb. Woodslasher - didn't measure
Walters 1.525"
Plumb 1.525"

Peg, you've inspired me to work on my twist split technique and now I am beginning to understand why the shape of that axe (plumb) is more useful for that. Thanks for measurements and your right most people would give up on that type of wood. I try everything too -partly because I am stubborn, partly because it was "it was free and within wheelbarrow distance". I try to remember there are valuable things I am learning when suffering through something as terrible as sweetgum. I am twice as fast at than i was a year ago and the best part of all was when I got some straight grained alder- I started to feel like He-Man those rounds were flying so far.

 

[300Six]

That's cool Garry. Snap a pic if you get a chance. I have a Northern King that I hung on a hatchet handle- similar story-and its an excellent kindling splitter too.



Peg, you've inspired me to work on my twist split technique and now I am beginning to understand why the shape of that axe (plumb) is more useful for that. Thanks for measurements and your right most people would give up on that type of wood. I try everything too -partly because I am stubborn, partly because it was "it was free and within wheelbarrow distance". I try to remember there are valuable things I am learning when suffering through something as terrible as sweetgum. I am twice as fast at than i was a year ago and the best part of all was when I got some straight grained alder- I started to feel like He-Man those rounds were flying so far.

We all need a confidence booster every now and again! Clear Black/White/Green Ash is another wood that seems to want to spring apart just as the axe strikes. As you become older it becomes more frustrating to seemingly accomplish nothing on gnarly wood except build up a big sweat. Reducing the length of ugly-looking rounds from 16" to 12" makes a huge difference!

 

[garry3]

That's cool Garry. Snap a pic if you get a chance. I have a Northern King that I hung on a hatchet handle- similar story-and its an excellent kindling splitter too.



Peg, you've inspired me to work on my twist split technique and now I am beginning to understand why the shape of that axe (plumb) is more useful for that. Thanks for measurements and your right most people would give up on that type of wood. I try everything too -partly because I am stubborn, partly because it was "it was free and within wheelbarrow distance". I try to remember there are valuable things I am learning when suffering through something as terrible as sweetgum. I am twice as fast at than i was a year ago and the best part of all was when I got some straight grained alder- I started to feel like He-Man those rounds were flying so far.

I am having trouble posting pictures but it is this pattern. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1098051-Hatchet-restoration
Mine only has about an inch of blade left before the bevels. It doesn't get stuck either.