Splitting hair video.

That is ridiculous. What kind of knife is that? It looks quite thick on the spine, but that could just be because it is so close to the camera.
 
Methinks it's a Busse. Which means it's probably 1/4" thick at the spine... and that Vassili's freakin' NUTS.

But I still wish I was that kind of nuts...
 
This is great stuff. I can't get to that point. If I swing it horizontally I can get it to cut the hair in half, but not widdle it like yours. That is truely amazing.:eek:
 
This is Busse Game Wardens .220" thick blades - INFI. Angle I think about 30, at least it was intended to be 30 - you never can say for sure with freehand and slightly convex for same reason. This is 50-40 gram sharpness.

Busse-GameWarner-035.jpg


I had posts about this before. It is DMT diamonds

sharpening-06.jpg


and that Green Rouge followed by 1 micron, 0.3 micron and 0.15 diamond powder on thin leather. However it may start doing this after Green Rouge (which is about $7 at WoodCraft)

sharpening-07.jpg


I think initially I reported this here when I first was able to do this:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=491916

I am not an sharpening expert or professional sharpener, anybody can do this if I can. Trick is thin not glued leather which make contact with edge as gentle as possible, make sure side of the affected edge as parallel as possible to leather, almost not touching edge itself, not biting leather when you move it in opposite direction (as it was wrongly suggested in one manuel). No pressure at all, better miss few times not to touch edge at all then roll it.

Thanks, Vassili.

P.S. I am not calling this stroping but polishing mostly, because it is not 3-5 times but much more - same effort as for sharpening with green rouge it is 50 - 100 times each side, for diamond powder is much less, ecause it will be mostly polished by Green Rouge.
 
I inspected edge under microscope - x100 and x400. This is not a burr, as I expected, because as I sad I am not stropping it with 3-5 moves to straighten burr, but really polish much longer.

I did not try yet formal testing with sharpness measuring but, I expected this sharpness to go away after single cut on wood. At least this was what happen before when I did testing my collection of Buck 110 - for all 420HC, CPM S30V, CPM154 and BG42 sharpness from 70grams jump to 90grams after first cut.

And here I have 40-50grams sharpness.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Vassili,

Nice hair whittling in the second film!

Also I stumbled on your Buck 110 testing on your Russian site. Unfortunately, my Russian is very rusty. Did you also post the 110 testing here on Bladeforums? A link would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Keith
 
I inspected tip of the Jeans GW after I made sheath, using it to cut leather on wood. It is not splitting hair any more near the tip, but continue to split in the middle of the blade. After inspection under microscope - no rolling on the sides or chipping - so again this is not a burr (which does not surprise me after I polished it quite a lot).

KeithAM said:
Vassili,

Nice hair whittling in the second film!

Also I stumbled on your Buck 110 testing on your Russian site. Unfortunately, my Russian is very rusty. Did you also post the 110 testing here on Bladeforums? A link would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Keith
Click to expand...

It was not finished - that time I found that I can not consistently sharpen test knives to needed sharpness and stop testing. Now I learn how to sharpen and need to start that tests, but I am out of steam.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
nozh2002 said:
I inspected edge under microscope - x100 and x400. This is not a burr, as I expected, because as I sad I am not stropping it with 3-5 moves to straighten burr, but really polish much longer.

I did not try yet formal testing with sharpness measuring but, I expected this sharpness to go away after single cut on wood. At least this was what happen before when I did testing my collection of Buck 110 - for all 420HC, CPM S30V, CPM154 and BG42 sharpness from 70grams jump to 90grams after first cut.

And here I have 40-50grams sharpness.

Thanks, Vassili.
Click to expand...
Sharpness testing on INFI after first cut would be interesting, since Buch 420HC is only 58 Rc and all of those other steels have poor edge stability. INFI should have very high edge stability with a thick edge along with 60 Rc, meaning it might do better.

I've heard that the DMT 3 micron doesn't get a blade as sharp as a waterstone at the same grit, what are your experiences?
 
Larrin said:
Sharpness testing on INFI after first cut would be interesting, since Buch 420HC is only 58 Rc and all of those other steels have poor edge stability. INFI should have very high edge stability with a thick edge along with 60 Rc, meaning it might do better.

I've heard that the DMT 3 micron doesn't get a blade as sharp as a waterstone at the same grit, what are your experiences?
Click to expand...

I resharpen Busse to my edge - around 30 degree (15 each side). Busse hold edge better, but I did not do any formal testing yet.

I am not using waterstones, but yes, 3 micron DMT is bit a disappointment, may be little better then Extra Fine DMT, but it is worse then 6 microns Diamond powder on leather or Green Rouge, I am confused I think I may skip it really, but because I have it already - I use it after Extra fine anyway.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
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