Spotted Sirupati!

Ad Astra

Ad Astra

Joined
Jul 30, 2004
Messages
3,833
To my horror, I noticed some blackish spots on my 18” Sirupati... that weren’t there the day before. I think it’s a pre-rust condition on the surface (though I keep the knife oiled). What can I use (safely) in terms of a mild abrasive to restore the mirror finish? I’ve read so many old threads, trying to get caught up, can’t remember if somebody recommended a paste. I’ve only been suffering from HIKV for a couple months, wasn’t going to join the forum till I had 3... finally I do. 20" AK for the boat, 18” Sirupati just because, and a KK for letters.

Living in a marine environment I guess I better get used to rust treatment/removal. The 20” AK is great for use on a boat: I can chop any fouled lines, prop obstructions, etc. quickly with a 2-handed swing. Ditto for poisonous & way-large fish. As far as repelling boarders & pirates, well, I have a fibreglas repair kit too.

I joined the forum to learn, not to speak. I hate being a noob. But if it counts, I have built from scratch both a Roman Gladius w/sheath & Pilum (took all summer). I used to collect Ka-Bars, thinking they were the height of knife evolution, but these HI Khukuris have opened my eyes. Now a Ka-Bar seems like a kitchen knife.

So what are these dark spots? They don’t rub off!
 
welcome.

I jut got black spots on my 10" BDC too.

I am using japanese sword powder and oil to take them off.
I recommend a very very fine abrasive and persistence.
 
Welcome Ad Astra, The 18" Siru is one of my preferred carry blades. In a marine environment especially, I recommend using a Marine Tuf-Cloth to protect your blades. I also use Flitz metal polish. The Flitz may also help remove the spotting and restore the luster. Break Free and Emery compound may also help with light spotting/rust. Also don't store blades in a leather scabbard (HI's leather-covered wood should be OK). Or you could just let it rust like Kevin Costner in Waterworld.
 
Welcome to the Cantina!


If it doesn't come off with a polishing cloth or compound, then it could be serious pitting. Grab some 600 grit sandpaper, or just use a scotch-brite pad with WD40 on it. Scrub that rascal down.

My preferred method is to use a buffing wheel w/compound - but not everybody has one of those.
 
Quick question guys- where do you get your Flitz or Simichrome polish?
I'm running out. I bought it online with a bunch of other stuff, but I'd rather get it locally. Do A.C. Moore and craft shops carry it?
 
My local ACE Hardware store has Flitz and Simichrome most of the time. But I think each store can vary the stock to match locale.
 
I gave up on mirror finish a long time ago. Scrub that puppy down with a green scotchbrite pad and you'll get rid of the black spots and end up with a nice satin finish.

--Josh
 
Mr.BadExample said:
Quick question guys- where do you get your Flitz or Simichrome polish?
Click to expand...
I got mine at a gun & knife show. I've seen it at good gun shops as well. Pretty sure I saw it at Southerland's, a local lumber & hardware supply store. Places like Home Depot etc oughta handle it as well I would think.
That was the Flitz. I have never used the Simichrome but have seen the results of its use. I think they're comparable.

I'm wondering if a good chrome or auto polish might not work as well? There seems to be something in the liquid that cuts tar and road grime as well as a very fine polishing compound.
Since it cuts tar and road grime I would think it would cut tree sap and the other crap we all get on our khuk's.:)
 
I like to use Mother's Mag polish or Mother's Incredible Billet polish. These are easy to find at almost any auto parts store. It works good on steel, and gives an incredible shine on brass bolsters and buttcaps.
 
Yvsa in my experience chrome or auto polish does work, but does not cut as aggressively as flitz or simichrome. Not saying that either cuts that aggresively, but its just a little more work to get the same results.

As for cheap places for simichrome, I got it was either 4 or 6 tubes for something around $10 off of Ebay. Never hurts to check.
 
Yvsa said:
I'm wondering if a good chrome or auto polish might not work as well?
Click to expand...
Yvsa,

On my trip to AR (the first time) we stopped at a big truck stop in TN. In the trucker's supply area they had some cloths, pads and a huge display stand full of polishing compounds....and right in the middle, there it was = white, green and red rouge. Just like you order off the knife supply shops. "Duh....Of course!" I said to myself. :rolleyes: They've got metal they have to polish and clean too!

It was exactly the same thing - even said "matchless" on it. (trade name)


So, yes, I do think at least some of them are interchangable.
 
Any motorcycle shop will have some kind of chrome polish in stock. Any of them will work fine. But, I also prefer the satin finish because it is easier to maintain – at least after it gets a bit of patina from use.
 
try lemmon juice.

I never tried this on a khuk but they said it works- get a piece of aluminum foil and crumble it into a ball, pour some fresh pepsi or coke on the blade and scrub it with the ball of foil to remove rust. Again I never tried it on a khuk so I cant say how well it works or of it will scratch the mirror finnish but it does take rust off. Ive tried the lemon before and it worked for me, actually started smoking when it came in contact with rust
 
Thanks for all the replies. Still learning how this works. These things are going to get dirty when used, and like cars and guns, you gotta take care of 'em if you want them to last. Rust is nobodys friend except time.
 
Not sure how to spell it, but Win-ol. Great. Worked better than bore cleaner
and hours with steel wool.

Rub on, rub off, or scrub with a fine brush. That's it. Incredible. Too bad I didn't know before I put all those fine scratches on my Sticker.

John
 
So to review, after you've smoothed off the problem area with steel wool and wd40... ( done )

I use Flitz or chrome polish to take it back to the mirror finish?

Please tell me if I read the info correctly...
 
Also, for initial scrubbing;

Any lubricant seems to help.

Brass 'wool' scrubby pads from the kitchen aisle
will not scratch the steel,
but will abrade anything anywhere near 'loose' on the steel.

Brass brushes from tool aisle similar
and stiffer.
Just be sure it's not brass plated steel wire,
which -will- scratch.


BonAmi / Soft Scrub
[or similar Calcium Carbonate (chalk) no bleach cleaner]
or Baking Soda
made into a paste with water or oil
makes a good gentle initial scrub.


I think most auto polish compounds are in a wax base.
So they lend a preservative effect.

White polishing compounds are often Tripoli
which is fine ground quartz
which can be troublesome if breathed into the lungs.


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