Spyderco’ hawkbills for yard work?

L

looker

Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
158
Hi,
1st post. The shape of the Spyderco hawkbill blade resembles a pruning/harvesting knife. Any first hand experiences with them cutting suckers, weeds, small branches, vines, roots, etc.?

Or others suitable choices for yard / gardening choirs would be appreciated. I need something a) better or stouter than a regular pruning knife, b) can be open / closed with one hand, often with gloves on, and 3) not too nice that I would fret over damaging it.

Thanks
 
I don't know the model name, but the Byrd line has a folder with a hawkbill blade.
Should be under $20 for the FRN version, bit more for the stainless and G10

Opinel makes a good inexpensive pruner in carbon steel but it doesn't open one handed.
 
It is called the Byrd Crossbill G-10 and is available in part serrated as well.

BY07G_L.jpg


P.S. - Welcome to the forums!
 
I see that Spyderco will soon be releasing the "Superhawk", which, it seems, will be selling for 3-4 times the amount of the Crossbill. What is the difference in these two knives, except the steel? The Superhawk will have a blade of VG-10.... any other major difference? The blade length would seem to be the same.....

Andy
 
Andrew Colglazier said:
I see that Spyderco will soon be releasing the "Superhawk", which, it seems, will be selling for 3-4 times the amount of the Crossbill. What is the difference in these two knives, except the steel? The Superhawk will have a blade of VG-10.... any other major difference? The blade length would seem to be the same.....

Andy
Click to expand...

1) The Superhawk is made in Japan, whereas the Crossbill is made in China. As you're probably aware, knives made in Japan are quite a bit more costly than knives made in China.

2) The Superhawk has a compression lock, as opposed to the front-lock (lock-back) that the Crossbill has. The compression lock is stronger and requires a lot more in the way of machining.

3) The Superhawk has peel-ply carbon fiber handles (not G-10 like the Crossbill), which is also a more expensive material.

Regards,
3G
 
I use a SpyderHawk, Harpy or Merlin for pruning. They all work great for the type of chores you mention. The SpyderHawk gets used on larger branches (longer blade), the Merlin gets used a lot for smaller stuff and the Harpy gets all-out beater duty (it's still in production, so I can replace it easier). The Harpy has a thicker blade, all stainless construction and better steel, but I think if I were you, I'd get four G-10 Crossbills for the same amount of money and not even worry about abusing them. The Crossbill is quite a bit larger than the Harpy, the G-10 will give you a better grip, it is easier to operate with gloves on and is way up there in the "bang for buck" rating.
 
3Guardsmen said:
1) The Superhawk is made in Japan, whereas the Crossbill is made in China. As you're probably aware, knives made in Japan are quite a bit more costly than knives made in China.

2) The Superhawk has a compression lock, as opposed to the front-lock (lock-back) that the Crossbill has. The compression lock is stronger and requires a lot more in the way of machining.

3) The Superhawk has peel-ply carbon fiber handles (not G-10 like the Crossbill), which is also a more expensive material.

Regards,
3G
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! :thumbup:

Andy
 
I have the Stainless crossbill as a disposable concealable fighter but it has done a bit of pruning. For most people I would recommend the crossbill but if you are hanging out here on BF you might like a bit more finish and detail to your knives so one of the made in Japan models preferably with a thin flat edge.
 
First of all Welcome to this Forum, You will find lots of useful info here. I have the Crossbill and I use it for yard work also. Its a good knife for the money and I have no complaints. It looks wicked also. Buy one and beat the crap out of it with out any remorse.
-frank
 
Thanks everyone for the welcome and responses. My yard work choirs are fairly mundane. I’m sure any of the models suggested will be fine, as long as it’s stouter than the Victorinox Pruner. Please forgive my ignorance, I'm not sure what the differences are. I put this chart together.

Model...Cost...Blade Length...Blade Material...Handle Material...Lock Style

Crossbill...$31...3.5”...8Cr13MoV...G-10...Back Lock
Harpy...$42...2.75...VG-10...Stainless Steel...Lock Back
Merlin...discontinued model?
Tasman...$64...2.94...H1...FRN...Lock Back
SpyderHawk...$128...3.5...VG-10...Carbon Fiber...Compression lock

I think you guys are telling me this -

Cost : The crossbill lacks the refinements of the Japanese ones, but offers a good “bang for buck" .
Blade Length : A longer blade is better with larger stuff. I’ll be happy with anything that can handle things shy of fetching the loppers for.
Handle Material : I don’t like kitchen knifes with metal handles, so I’ll cross them off.

Blade Material : Are any of them worse than the Victorinox Pruner Knife?
Lock Style : Are any of them worse with gloves on?
 
If you can find a Harpy for $42, snap it up. They usually retail around $65 to $75. But it does have a stainless steel handle, which can be rather slippery, especially if you happen to be wearing cotton work gloves.

The Merlin is essentially a Harpy Lite. The same size and shape blade, 0.5mm thinner, with an FRN handle. Although the Merlin is discontinued, the Tasman Salt is basically the same knife with rustproof H-1 steel. It is possibly the ultimate beater hawkbill in its size.

The SuperHawk is a new knife, carbon fiber scales and compression lock. It seems to me to be more self-defense oriented than utility oriented, with less curve and less negative blade angle. It is also pretty pricey for a yardwork knife.

The SpyderHawk is another discontinued model. 3.5" VG-10 blade set in the Endura3 handle. There are probably collectors cringing because I use mine for trimming trees and shrubs, they are getting pretty scarce.

The Crossbill is roughly the size of the SpyderHawk. The Byrd series knives are made in China to Spyderco specs and quality control. They are amazingly good knives for the price. The 8Cr13MoV steel is similar to AUS-8, but run harder than AUS-8 normally is. It sharpens easily and holds an edge well.

All of these knives except the SuperHawk are lock backs, and none of them should be difficult to operate with gloves on. The Comet hole of the Crossbill gives more purchase for the thumb than the smaller round holes of the Merlin and Harpy.
 
I was reading up on the blade shape last night. Even though it originate as some sort of hand sickle for farming, most discuss its’ usefulness for boating and fighting. Your experiences using them for yard work choirs are more applicable to me.

Harpy – The slipperiness of stainless steel handle is a concern. My hands and gloves are often dirtied from soil, watering, and sweaty palms.
Superhawk - Looks nice, just too expensive for yard work.
Merlin, SpyderHawk – being discontinued, collector items limits its availability.

I’ve down selected to the…
Crossbill - being cheaper with the two reservations of made in china and uses 8Cr13MoV steel.
Tasman – 2x more, “with rustproof H-1 steel. It is possibly the ultimate beater hawkbill in its size.”

I’m hoping to find them locally. Being clueless, I’m not sure I’ll be able to tell (or appreciate) the differences. What would be some of the obvious (poorer quality, manufacturing) things to look for? Ways to determine steel quality without being able to use it first. Would you recommend a serrated or plain edge?
 
Good questions! The Crossbill is made in China, as opposed to Japan for the Tasman Salt, so quality should, in theory, be better on the Salt, but being that it's Spyderco, quality will be great on both. For garden/yard type work, I personally would go with the Tasman Salt, as it would require less in the way of maintenance and corrosion prevention, due to the H-1 steel. I think a serrated blade may cut a little easier for your purposes, but the plain edge should be easier for you to sharpen. I hope this helps.:)

Regards,
3G
 
I prefer the serrated edge for yard work, as it cuts through tough vines and green wood more quickly than a plain edge. That is about the only thing I prefer serrations for, though. The Byrd Duckfoot sharpener is inexpensive and does a great job of sharpening serrations if that is a concern.

H-1 is probably a "better" steel all around than the 8Cr13MoV of the Byrd knives...but it costs a lot more. Granted, it absolutely will not rust, but how much of a concern is that for you? I live in a semi-arid climate. Rust resistence is way down there on my priority list. Sal Glesser knows steel way better than I do, and he picked the steels for both of these knives. 8Cr13MoV is the best blade steel available in China, so that is what he went with. The Salt series was intended for the marine market, where corrosion resistence was critical, and H-1 was the best that was available in that category, so that's what he went with.

The G-10 Crossbill has skeletonized steel liners under the scales. It will feel far more substantial and rigid in hand than the unlined FRN of the Tasman Salt. Which will fail first in real use? Flip a coin. I have ten year old unlined FRN knives that I have beat the hell out of and they are still going strong. Looks and feel can be deceiving. Your best bet is to pick a good brand name and buy from a reputable dealer. Either the Crossbill or the Tasman will give you years of good service. It will boil down to personal preference - which works best for you. I hope you can find them locally and handle both before buying. I'm not that fortunate, so I do most of my knife shopping online.
 
yablanowitz said:
... I'm not that fortunate, so I do most of my knife shopping online.
Click to expand...

Same here. I drove an hour to find two dead-end leads for this one:

attachment.php

I wound up buying it online. :grumpy:

I like it. Fine pruners, sharp wharncliffe blade, and a weed popper. :thumbup:
 

Attachments

  • leatherman-hybrid.jpg
    leatherman-hybrid.jpg
    7.7 KB · Views: 101
I found plenty of gerbers, but no spydercos at my local sporting goods stores. I’ll probably go with an online retailer as well. I’ve read the 8Cr13MoV is said to be a good, but a softer steel than H1. If 8Cr13MoV is softer or on par with the Victorinox Pruner knife, I’ll opt for the H1 –even though above average corrosion resistance is not something I need.

The leatherman is about the same weight as my current pruners. It’s ok when carried on a belt, but too heavy for pocket carry. Besides, I’ve read the hawkbill blade shape is excellent for fighting. I’ll be better prepared to fend off attacks from thorn bushes.
 
Well, the 8Cr13MoV of the Byrd is a bit softer than H-1, especially at the edge and even moreso on serrated blades. The Byrd steel is far from soft, though. If I recall correctly, it is generally in the Rc 61-62 range. Most Victorinox blades are in the mid to upper fifties. H-1 work hardens during grinding, and a serrated blade will have a Rockwell hardness at the edge of 65-67. In spite of that hardness, it still seems to get scratched up rather easily. Go figure.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top