spyderco 306uf after dmt x-fine?

Kentucky

Kentucky

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Dec 13, 2008
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I have the x-course through x-fine dmt plates(8")..Im thinking fo getting the spyderco 306uf instead of the EEF dmt..Seems I just like the stone and I sharpen a lot of plane blades etc..What do you think?
 
For plane blades you should try waterstones. A 1k and 6k wold serve you we'll.

The UF ceramic a good stone, I just don't think it would be a good fit to the sharpening you have planned.
 
I go from my EF DMT to a fine spyderco, it's about 2400 grit so it's already a step up from the EF DMT. The extra fine spyderco is ~5k.
 
The UF spyderco is more of the 8-10k range.
 
knifenut1013 said:
For plane blades you should try waterstones. A 1k and 6k wold serve you we'll.

The UF ceramic a good stone, I just don't think it would be a good fit to the sharpening you have planned.
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I did actually use waterstones. I had the arashiyama 1k and 6k but I fooled around and sold them last fall. I have regretted it ever since. I started over this time with dmt's because I have some cpm 3v and cpm 154 personal knives. I do plan on re-acquiring the arashiyama stones oon. I actually bought them from your recommendation..
 
Numbers only get you so far, what stones actually do to steel is a different story. Compare a waterstones, oil stone, ceramic and diamond at the same micron rating and they will all produce a different finish
 
I have the exact same setup and before the strops, the edge i get on the UF Spyderco after the EF DMT is like a hazy mirror on most steels. 1095 takes a nice polish off of it, S30V has a little more scratches still visible. I am planning to buy a few Naniwa Super Stones to improve the edge i get anyways but I would reccomend getting both and using the EEF after the EF and then the UF Spyderco and then maybe some CrO on fuzzy leather. The edges I get after the EF on the UF cut great and very clean and look nice but I really want full mirror edges with mine. The cloudy mirror polish you get on the UF after the EF looks like a mirror someone breathed on a bit. Hope this helped. Happy polishing.
 
As I understand it ceramic is around 30 mic and the various sintering procedures dictates how fine or coarse the stone "feels". That being said, the ultra fine "feels" nowhere as fine as my 6000 shapton glass and numerically is closer to 4 to 5k than 10k.
I don't sharpen planes but it seems if you are used to DMT then why not stick with them and get the eef. They are coming "broken in" from the factory now and I have good luck with mine on high vanadium steels. It is great to have so many choices, stones and plates have come a long way since I was a lad. Russ
 
Jason (who is always spot on), said a lot there. I had a tough time understanding about different stones/ different finishes, when they were equal on paper. It doesn't make sense, but it's true.

That said, I am headed back to toothy edges. I have the full progression of SM rods, and love them. I also have xc-ef on the DMT's. I have played with a bunch of different edges, and tried to learn as much as I can, about their performances. For me, the fine DMT, for the back bevel, brown sm rods for a 40 degree micro, and a strop with green compound, give me an extremely useful edge, that is very sharp, but very robust too. Good luck man.
 
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mycough said:
I was typing while you posted this, follow your instincts, and have fun! Russ
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Yea, Im going to Amazon here in a little while. I have a free amazon prime membership right now so I can get the EEF dmt for $58 shipped two day mail :D
 
Just so you guys know I got my EEF stone in today. I tried it out on a bird & trout in AEB-L which was already pretty sharp. In no time it was just sticky sharp. Ive never been one to overuse terminology with sharpening but it was actually hair whittling sharp(which is hard for me to do because my hands are so big :D )
 
Are you using the Dia-Sharp continuous plates or the colored version with the little holes all over on the surface??
 
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