Spyderco Ball Bearing lock vs BM Axis

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Supra1988t

Joined
Aug 31, 2010
Messages
104
Everyone raves about the axis lock but you don't hear too much about the ball bearing lock. They seem very similar to me with the exception being the type of spring being used. I have limited experience with both but the axis lock seemed much easier to operate. How does the BB lock hold up to extended use and abuse compared to the axis?
 
I haven't really used my Manix 2 in "hard" use, but I can definitely say that I like the Axis lock better. The spring is stronger in the ball bearing lock, making one handed closing more difficult as well as more difficulty in "flicking" the knife open.

Also, since it's a ball rather than a sort of "rod" that the Axis uses, I'm guessing it's not as suited for shocks like a spine whack because of the curvature. Can't really speak to how it stands in hard use.
 
If you haven't heard about the BBL (and I assume you actually mean the CBL, the caged ball bearing lock), you haven't used the 'search' feature here or at Spyderco Forums. ;) There were several very long, very heated threads about the CBL earlier this year. :eek: :(

In real life, both companies make superior knives that are designed, tested and manufactured to very high standards. Both the Axis and CBL locks are more than strong and reliable enough for 99.999% of the cutting that 99.999% of users will do. Buy for the ergos and blade you want. :thumbup:

Supra1988t said:
Everyone raves about the axis lock but you don't hear too much about the ball bearing lock. They seem very similar to me with the exception being the type of spring being used. I have limited experience with both but the axis lock seemed much easier to operate. How does the BB lock hold up to extended use and abuse compared to the axis?
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Having owned and used both, I think the Spyderco ball lock is harder to manipulate than the BM Axis bar. When things get slippery, it’s even worse. When using any kind of thick gloves, it’s worse still.

Too bad, because otherwise I like the ball lock. The lockup works very well.
 
The reason beating the handle hard over the lock area and spine whacks may cause problems for the BB lock, IMO is because it's a long coiled type spring holding the ball and the shock makes it move. That's just my theory of course . But it seems to stand to reason a spring would vibrate if shock is transmitted and repeatedly striking it over and over would make the ball move out of lock-up.
 
since when is wacking the spine of a knife common or normal use of a folder? besides keeping a knife from closing the lock adds allot of strength to the knife in general use which is cutting. dont own a bm, dont think ill of them just think there all pretty much the same ole same ole in knife design. not very imaginative or innovative. My manix 2 is as smooth as i need it to be. opens like its on ball bearings. and closing is a one handed affair once you get the knack. i think the issue of the manix and spine whacking should be filed where it belongs, and thats in the way old news basket which has been beaten to death and brought back to like only to be beaten to death again almost weekly.
 
Supra1988t said:
Everyone raves about the axis lock but you don't hear too much about the ball bearing lock. They seem very similar to me with the exception being the type of spring being used. I have limited experience with both but the axis lock seemed much easier to operate. How does the BB lock hold up to extended use and abuse compared to the axis?
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The D'Allara model with the Ball Bearing lock has had no issues that I know off. It was one of the best models ever made IMO. I dont know about the new caged system. I know some complained about closing the old BB lock and therefore the new caged system. Personally I think they are both great locks.

http://199.231.142.3/forums/showthread.php?t=417597
 
I haven't owned any of the ball bearing locks, but the caged BBL on the Manix 2 is a fantastic lock. People talk about how smooth the axis lock is, but for my money, the CBBL blows it out of the water in terms of smoothness and solid lock up. Plus I had a problem a) with my axis lock getting gummed up with filth and corruption, and b) with the omega springs breaking. No such difficulties with the CBBL.
 
well if you go by what he shows on the tube you probubly should scrap all your benchmades, spydercos and kershaws for a cold steel recon. just sayin, you think its so relevant put ur money where the relevance is/ triad lock and aus8 steel. yea, thats gonna happen.
 
If i wanted a knife to just literally beat the hell out of, I'd use a Cold steel with the Tri-ad lock. (cheap tough and IMO not all that refined and yes I have one, but it's still not misused) But, I don't treat any of my folders like that. We have tools that are designed to chop and smash objects without damage. A folding knife isn't going to be used for anything by me, but cutting.
 
bada61265 said:
well if you go by what he shows on the tube you probubly should scrap all your benchmades, spydercos and kershaws for a cold steel recon. just sayin, you think its so relevant put ur money where the relevance is/ triad lock and aus8 steel. yea, thats gonna happen.
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Actually, that seems to be happening quite a bit. Well, not the 'scrapping' of all your other folders, but there are a ton of posts about the CS Triad Lock knives, and the posters all seem unanimously pleased with it.
 
J.Davey said:
Actually, that seems to be happening quite a bit. Well, not the 'scrapping' of all your other folders, but there are a ton of posts about the CS Triad Lock knives, and the posters all seem unanimously pleased with it.
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Just a testament to aus8 and the lockback as great all around performers (yeah I know the triad is a bit different but you get the point)
 
i dont doubt it, they are nice knives, much improved over the previous versions. just saying that to buy one because it can take a hit on the spine and live to tell about it is kinda like shopping for a race car and ending up with a jeep because someone youtubes a video of a ferrari breaking an axle on a pothole.
 
bada61265 said:
i dont doubt it, they are nice knives, much improved over the previous versions. just saying that to buy one because it can take a hit on the spine and live to tell about it is kinda like shopping for a race car and ending up with a jeep because someone youtubes a video of a ferrari breaking an axle on a pothole.
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I think whatever analogy you were going for there crashed and burned. :p

Buying one lock over another because it can take more abuse than said other lock makes perfect sense to me.
 
bada61265 said:
well if you go by what he shows on the tube you probubly should scrap all your benchmades, spydercos and kershaws for a cold steel recon. just sayin, you think its so relevant put ur money where the relevance is/ triad lock and aus8 steel. yea, thats gonna happen.
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I've never seen Ankerson suggest you should only purchase what thoughts or tests show to be the strongest, most durable folders.

He and others have simply stated that any knife presented or advertised as "hard-use" should be able to easily go through the little series of tests he put together.

I put 90's lock-backs from Cold Steel and Spyderco through much worse than what is on his videos.

What you are saying all together here, and after, is almost as though you think Cold Steel Tri-Ad knives are not very good at cutting but just good at being tough - which would be absurd.
 
Where is this information coming from that the bbl is more likely to slip than the axis lock? this is the second thread in which i have seen a post where someone starts with something along the lines of i think the ball bearing lock is more likely to slip because it is round. I have a theory that this is how bladeforums "truths" get started... a couple of people post what seems right to them, and next thing you know, this is quoted as fact. I personally think that Spyderco, a company that places so much stock in lock strength and reliability that they have a machine dedicated to breaking locks, has thought of this potential shortcoming. You realize that much of the price built into these knives comes to pay the engineers that sit around a big table and figure out these problems more scientifically than a 2 line thought experiment on a forum right?

I think its great to sit around and discuss the merits of both locks, they both work in slightly different ways, and to us knife geeks, that is a fascinating topic of discussion. Be that as it may, there is no reason to invent reasons to make it more interesting. Coming to the fight with imaginary facts is like going to war with an imaginary gun.
 
after having 2 knives with the bearing lock (poliwog, manix2) and 1 with axis (minigrip) i like the axis because of ease of use. if have no doubt that they are both strong enough, but i can easily manipulate the axis one handed so it gets the nod.
 
sweet_hitch-hiker said:
after having 2 knives with the bearing lock (poliwog, manix2) and 1 with axis (minigrip) i like the axis because of ease of use. if have no doubt that they are both strong enough, but i can easily manipulate the axis one handed so it gets the nod.
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This.

Still, I think a better reason to go for one over the other is the blade shape and the task you have in mind. The leaf blade shape is good enough for EDC and certain types of cutting, but I found that a shape like the Endura, para2, or Gayle Bradley is better suited for cutting thick and wet mediums like corn as it provides less resistance. Of course, cutting dry mediums like wood might be an entirely different story.
 
jill jackson said:
The reason beating the handle hard over the lock area and spine whacks may cause problems for the BB lock, IMO is because it's a long coiled type spring holding the ball and the shock makes it move. That's just my theory of course . But it seems to stand to reason a spring would vibrate if shock is transmitted and repeatedly striking it over and over would make the ball move out of lock-up.
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Gotta love a woman with a good knowledge of knives and common sense.:D
 
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