Spyderco bevel at 30 degrees?

E

evert67

Joined
Oct 22, 2011
Messages
222
I always wondered why Spyderco knives are, out of the box, so much sharper than for example Benchmades or Kershaws. Until I saw the video that accompanies the Sharpmaker. In it Sal says Spyderco ship their knives with a 30 degree bevel, whereas 40 degrees is the standard.

At the same time, Sal recommends sharpening your knives at 40 degrees, since at 30 degrees the edge becomes too vulnerable and may break or chip. Sal says things like "only certain steel types can deal with this" or "at Spyderco we take special care of this" (not literal quotes).

Therefore I wondered, if Spyderco ship their knives with a 30 degree bevel, why wouldn't we (re)sharpen it at 30 degrees?
 
Haven't watched the video in ages. Perhaps Sal was referring to non-Spyderco knives when he suggested using a 40º bevel? Thought the normal suggestion was to sharpen at 30º, then back bevel with a few strokes at 40º.
 
Hi Evert,

Most Spyderco steels will handle 30 degrees just fine. There is argument that even with a 30 degree bevel, many feel that a few strokes at 40 degrees strengthens the edge. You'll have to play to determine your own parameters.

sal
 
Thanx Sal!

I'll try this tomorrow on my Paramilitary 2! And if it works, I'll try to get one of my Benchmades in 154CM to the Spyderco level :).
 
In my opinion it depends a lot on how you use your knives. I thinned out a ZDP Stretch to about 12.5 degrees per side (25 degrees inclusive) and it performed amazingly well, it zipped through anything I put in front of it. On the other hand, I didn't twist or pry with the edge--I would imagine with how thin I took the bevels I would have been in for some chips if I got too rough with the knife.

If my observations of the "average" knife user is generally true, most people don't really take any consideration of the edge when using the knife. They usually put way too much force into cuts, and twist/pry/wiggle the knife around--especially when cutting difficult materials like thick plastic or wood. A thin edge will cut much better, but won't stand up to as much abuse as a more obtuse and thick edge will. An edge at or around 30-40 degrees seems to be the best compromise for the "average" user.

Take a few passes at 40 degrees on a knife with a 30 degree edge will create a microbevel. Microbevels allow for thin bevels with a thicker edge--a great way to get edge strength while retaining a good edge geometry.
 
Most of the Spyderco's that I have see have been right on or very close to 30 degrees inclusive.

One still has to match/tailor the edge angle and edge finish to how they use the knife though.
 
When someone mentions or talks about 30 or 40 degree we are talking about 15 and 20 degrees per side correct?

I have always kept my Spyderco's at 20 degrees per side. A micro bevel sounds like it really is the better of both worlds, may have to try it. (Sorry for sort of derailing this conversation wanted some clarification; I always like to learn).
 
czechinthepipes said:
When someone mentions or talks about 30 or 40 degree we are talking about 15 and 20 degrees per side correct?

I have always kept my Spyderco's at 20 degrees per side. A micro bevel sounds like it really is the better of both worlds, may have to try it. (Sorry for sort of derailing this conversation wanted some clarification; I always like to learn).
Click to expand...

Yes that's it. :)
 
I never used the 30 degree until i read Sal's comment, and i like it! Holy crap my Delica is now slicing like never before :D
 
I reprofiled my Persian (VG10) to 24 degrees and than microbevel at 30. It is performing just fine.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top