I just registered and have a question - I don't know if I'm even in the right place, but .....I bought a Brad Southard Flipper and it came sharp but after a bit I had to touch up the edge. I have NEVER had such a hard time sharpening a blade, and I've been doing it for hundreds of years. I thought, and read, that CTS204P was a super steel - better than S30V - but the edge roll was worse than cheap Chinese steel !!! Did I buy a clone ?? After checking with all the souses available I do not believe it was ( notice "was" ) a clone. I could put a good edge on it (it was always toothy, though) and after very moderate use it would barely slice through paper. A little stropping brought the edge back OK. Does anybody have any ideas why ?
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Spyderco Brad Southard CTS204P blade
- Thread starter PLYSWKNVS
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2012
- Messages
- 902
Probably the wrong place to post, but I will offer you what help I can. CTS-204P is,in my opinion, a fantastic steel. For what it is and what a knife like the Spyderco Southard is designed to be. It is VERY similar to M390. As such it is high chromium (20%) and decent Vanadium (4%). This puts the stain resistance very high and the wear resistance pretty high as well. I have come to really, really like the steel. I'm a huge fan of M4, but CTS-204P is really great as well. The alloy content of the steel that gives it great wear resistance also makes it more difficult to sharpen. I use diamonds and a Lansky. If I'm hand sharpening I use DMT diamond stones.
This steel is very capable of taking a fantastic, fine, shiny edge. I personally run mine at about 600 grit. If you are having trouble getting an edge, that is understandable. As far as not keeping an edge well, that doesn't seem normal for that steel. I recommend diamonds and a good system ie: Wicked Edge, Edge Pro, Lansky etc. possibly you only got a "micro-bevel", and not a proper edge. Try that and see. If it just won't hold an edge, I would be suspect on the steel.
Talk to Spyderco, I have heard nothing but good about their customer service. Hope this helps. Cheers.
This steel is very capable of taking a fantastic, fine, shiny edge. I personally run mine at about 600 grit. If you are having trouble getting an edge, that is understandable. As far as not keeping an edge well, that doesn't seem normal for that steel. I recommend diamonds and a good system ie: Wicked Edge, Edge Pro, Lansky etc. possibly you only got a "micro-bevel", and not a proper edge. Try that and see. If it just won't hold an edge, I would be suspect on the steel.
Talk to Spyderco, I have heard nothing but good about their customer service. Hope this helps. Cheers.
- Joined
- May 29, 2011
- Messages
- 1,799
Yea I don't really know what to say.... You are asking several questions without actually asking.
Are you saying you think your knife is fake based off how the steel performs? Because, we can answer that a lot easier with some pictures or even if you wanted to research it.
Also, your post is very hyperbolic (Sharpening hundreds of years, folds like cheap Chinese steel, etc.) so I'm having a hard time qualifying your request for help.
What method are you Sharpening it? Are you removing the burr fully? Are you forming a burr? What steels do you have experience with? Did you buy it from a reputable dealer?.....
Oh and welcome to the forum.
Are you saying you think your knife is fake based off how the steel performs? Because, we can answer that a lot easier with some pictures or even if you wanted to research it.
Also, your post is very hyperbolic (Sharpening hundreds of years, folds like cheap Chinese steel, etc.) so I'm having a hard time qualifying your request for help.
What method are you Sharpening it? Are you removing the burr fully? Are you forming a burr? What steels do you have experience with? Did you buy it from a reputable dealer?.....
Oh and welcome to the forum.
