Spyderco Coating?

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dragonist2

Joined
Nov 24, 2012
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I've noticed that unlike many/most knife manufacturers, Spyderco charges more for their black blades than their satin finish ones. Why is this and what do you guys think about Spyderco's black coating? I'm thinking about ordering a Para 2 and trying to decide between the black and satin versions.

Thanks!
 
If it is a DLC coating I think it is something that has to be outsourced so costing more seems appropriate. DLC is very hard and will last a long time. However it doesn't really help with corrosion though with a stainless blade that isn't really an issue. It is more for looks and a non glare finish. There have also been some reports of DLC blades not being as hard as the satin version. If the DLC process requires the coating to be heated and baked on I can see how it could be a little softer.
 
dragonist2 said:
I've noticed that unlike many/most knife manufacturers, Spyderco charges more for their black blades than their satin finish ones. Why is this and what do you guys think about Spyderco's black coating? I'm thinking about ordering a Para 2 and trying to decide between the black and satin versions.
Click to expand...

Not sure your premise is accurate. Most of the "better" makers I've noted charge a bit more for the coating. Another step in manufacturing adds to the price.
Some brands may charge less because they are using the coating to mask an unfinished blade.

Personally, I don't care for coated blades. I'm sure DLC and similar quality processes are worthwhile in many cases....rest prevention, lower visibility, etc.
I just don't like the look and feel of any of them.

I'd get the Para2 (great choice BTW) non-coated...in fact, I did! :D
 
I thought about the "heat" too so I looked it up and the coating processes max out at 400F which I don't think will have too much of an effect on the steel.
All of the DLC coating service websites I visited stated something along these lines.

"low coefficient of friction and high micro-hardness, making them extremely effective in many tribological and wear applications."

They all mention typical uses would be found on end mills, drill bits, carbide bits, punches and dies, engine components. It would seriously extend the life of the product.

Because of that I wonder if "the Schrades of old" that you see with the sunken-in blades (not from sharpening but from wearing thin) would look like today if that
coating was applied 50yrs ago.

I have some DLC blades (quite a few years old) that show no signs of wear. I wonder how long it will last. Forever?
 
The coating helps the blade take less wear.
It's a very tough coating that causes another step in manufacturing - Thus the higher price.
DLC Coating - If the knife is taken care of - Will last for a very long time - Or forever.
It will get some rub marks from being used, and can wear, but this takes a lot of heavier use to do so.

I have the all black Para 2. I'm very pleased with it.
I've owned the Satin bladed Para 2's and they were far more likely to scratch and wear.

I think you'd like either. But go with which you like most.
The coating does have its advantages.
 
I would recommend the DLC coated PM2 if you are looking into it. I've only got six months of edc on it but not a sign of wear. It is expensive to coat thing with I've heard which is why you pay a higher price for the blade. I've heard nothing but good things about it as well and it's tribological features make it a great slicer as the DLC coating provides lubricity at ambient atmosphere and at vacuum. Or in other words is like a non stick coating of sorts that also is very good at preventing wear.
It is also used on metal cutting tools, on space craft for re-entry, bearings and other high friction surfaces. I'd say its safe to say that the coating will not come off in the time you have the knife.
 
I have a digi camo Military with a DLC coated blade and it has kicked but for several years and still looks relatively new.
I've never noticed any negative traits and it definitely looks good too.
It's also VERY scratch resistant.
 
Yup thats the one I want. Black coating with digicam candle. I like the look of the black blade more and I just wanted to help myself justify paying a higher price for it. Since it seems to be very functional in addition to looking better (in my opinion), I think that is what I'll go with. Thanks!

Now I just gotta find somewhere that has it in stock and for a good price. What happened to the sub-$100 ones people talk about?!?
 
If you're going to get a coated blade, DLC is the way to go. It is tough stuff (doesn't scratch, chip, or scrape away as badly as other coatings). If cutting hard or abrasive items, though, it will get marked up like crazy. This isn't damage to the DLC itself, but just surface marks.

Here's my ZT0550BLK after breaking down a bunch of large cardboard boxes. Most of that came off by wiping with a wet paper towel.
ZT0550BLK_800x264.jpg


Here it is after cutting a tin can into a spiral ribbon. The blade was coated in tin dust after cutting (the DLC isn't perfectly smooth, so it probably acted like a fine sandpaper against the tin). That mostly wiped off with a wet paper towel, and this was what was left. They look like scratches, but they're not. It's just the material from the tin can trapped in the small pores of the DLC. People have reported being able to use metal polish to remove such marks, but I haven't tried.
ZT0550_Blade_20121202_800x622.jpg


If you don't want the blade to show wear, stonewash is probably your best bet. My stonewashed Mini-Grip has a number of scratches, but they're not visible unless you look at it in the right light and at the right angle.
 
Those do look a lot like scratches. I may be wrong, but say that is tin residue, isn't it resting in the valley of scratches? I'm not completely sure, but it doens't make sense that the pores of the DLC form lines
 
I don't feel scratches when running my fingernail over those lines. It actually still feels smooth. Some of that has actually already rubbed off since I took that pic.

Think of running a piece of chalk over a chalkboard. Even after you erase it, you can still see a remnant trail on the board. It's not so much that the chalk scratched the slate (I'm sure on a microscopic level, it does, but on a macro level, the surface hasn't been damaged), but rather the eraser wasn't able to remove all the chalk bits.
 
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FlaMtnBkr said:
If it is a DLC coating I think it is something that has to be outsourced so costing more seems appropriate. DLC is very hard and will last a long time. However it doesn't really help with corrosion though with a stainless blade that isn't really an issue. It is more for looks and a non glare finish. There have also been some reports of DLC blades not being as hard as the satin version. If the DLC process requires the coating to be heated and baked on I can see how it could be a little softer.
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Holy crap, i am never buying a dlc coated knife
 
flarp said:
I don't feel scratches when running my fingernail over those lines. It actually still feels smooth. Some of that has actually already rubbed off since I took that pic.

Think of running a piece of chalk over a chalkboard. Even after you erase it, you can still see a remnant trail on the board. It's not so much that the chalk scratched the slate (I'm sure on a microscopic level, it does, but on a macro level, the surface hasn't been damaged), but rather the eraser wasn't able to remove all the chalk bits.
Click to expand...

Ah good analogy. That makes sense to me. I think besides aesthetics, there is a general consensus that dlc coating is better. I'll take my chances on the heat treating issue because I don't think it should be an issue
 
I took some metal polish to it, and now it looks almost like new again. Got the suggestion from another forum member here to try Nevr-Dull. About 5 minutes of buffing, and most of the tin residue was removed. Before shot above. After shot here:

ZT0550_Blade_20121217_800x530.jpg


If you want to keep DLC looking clean, this stuff works very well.
 
Just so you know DLC doesn't do much for corrosion. I had a blade where rust 'grew' right through the coating. It was easily wiped off and the coating was intact. But I don't know how much of that it could take before something permanent happens. But like shown above most marks are another material that has been deposited on the coating.

400 degrees is getting pretty close to the tempering temp of some steels. I still think hardness could be effected especially if it needs to get that hot.
 
dragonist2 said:
Yup thats the one I want. Black coating with digicam candle. I like the look of the black blade more and I just wanted to help myself justify paying a higher price for it. Since it seems to be very functional in addition to looking better (in my opinion), I think that is what I'll go with. Thanks!

Now I just gotta find somewhere that has it in stock and for a good price. What happened to the sub-$100 ones people talk about?!?
Click to expand...

That is the knife I have. The only thing I'll add is that the oil from your hands can show up more pronounced on the DLC coated blade. Washes right off, though.

The only sub $100 Para's I recall seeing were satin/black models and that was a while ago when shopping for mine.
 
I'm sure Spyderco has any issue with DLC application handled. I actually like the look of some wear on a coated blade, but this stuff just wipes clean after some moderate abrasive cutting use.
 
Yeah I'm sure a very reputable company like Spyderco wouldn't let this mar their quality.

Boy that after picture is like a whole other knife! That's clean!
 
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