Spyderco Compression lock Stick

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Jan 1, 2017
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31
I've owned 3 compression lock spydercos and sold 2 in the past because of lock stick. Im just onna deal with the lock stick on my most recent para 3... but im not sure what's going on, it seems that everyone online doesn't have many issues with this, but every Para 3/PM2 I touch has bad lock stick on the stop pin every time! I've owned 3, each for decent chunks of time and on each on I've had issues with lock stick not on the lock surface on the blade, but on the stop pin. Anyone have input on this? Is this normal? What's should I do?
Thanks much,
Giffayy
 
The only time I've had lock stick was because of dried debris in the tang where it locks up.
 
I’ve had lock stick in a few PM2s before. I’ve also had the notorious Manix 2 click when opening too.
 
I currently own 41 compression locks...PM1, PM2, Para 3 G10 and LW, Shaman, Lil Native, Yojimbo, Yojumbo and Gunting. Of those, only one of the PM2s had actual lock stick. The problem is caused by a slight lockbar overpressure that drives the locking tab too far across the horizontal lock face, pinching it between the lock face and the stop pin. If you're just experiencing a slight gritty feeling on a new knife, that's not really lock stick, and it should break in fairly quickly. Real lock stick is much different, and will typically get worse instead of better until the problem is resolved. It may get so bad that you need a pair of pliers to disengage the lock.

If you're comfortable working on Spydercos, you can correct the problem at home. The lockbar needs to be bent outward *extremely slightly* to reduce the locking force. The bending procedure should be done with a vise, so you do not introduce a second bend into the lockbar. If you get it right, the lock stick will completely vanish, and you won't have any lock rock. Barring that, you can take your chances with Spyderco's warranty department. They may send you a new knife, work on your old knife, or send it back with a note informing you that it meets QC standards. If you accidentally bought a counterfeit, they will throw your knife in the garbage.
 
I currently own 41 compression locks...PM1, PM2, Para 3 G10 and LW, Shaman, Lil Native, Yojimbo, Yojumbo and Gunting. Of those, only one of the PM2s had actual lock stick. The problem is caused by a slight lockbar overpressure that drives the locking tab too far across the horizontal lock face, pinching it between the lock face and the stop pin. If you're just experiencing a slight gritty feeling on a new knife, that's not really lock stick, and it should break in fairly quickly. Real lock stick is much different, and will typically get worse instead of better until the problem is resolved. It may get so bad that you need a pair of pliers to disengage the lock.

If you're comfortable working on Spydercos, you can correct the problem at home. The lockbar needs to be bent outward *extremely slightly* to reduce the locking force. The bending procedure should be done with a vise, so you do not introduce a second bend into the lockbar. If you get it right, the lock stick will completely vanish, and you won't have any lock rock. Barring that, you can take your chances with Spyderco's warranty department. They may send you a new knife, work on your old knife, or send it back with a note informing you that it meets QC standards. If you accidentally bought a counterfeit, they will throw your knife in the garbage.
Wow, 41 compression locks! I’m a big fan of the compression lock as well, I’d like to see a picture of that!

I have a few of them and haven’t any problems with them. If they didn’t break in and go away I would send em in to spyderco to get fixed or sell n keep trying because when they’re good they’re great!
 
Looks like H HP2114B has got you pretty well informed already. Changing the lock bar pressure isnt as daunting as it seems at first, just bend it so slightly that it seems your almost not doing anything, then put it back together dry, and check it. Just keep making micro adjustments, then check. You can do that on any of your liner or framelocks also to change lock bar pressure, and to tune your detent as well in most cases.

I just commented to mention one thing though. If theres any oil on on the lock faces, it will create lock stick in many cases. You want the lockfaces to be squeaky clean. Clean them with rubbing alcohol on a paper towell. If its degreased and still sticks, then you can draw on the lockfaces with a pencil and itll help a lot. However itll usually come back unless you change the lock bar pressure.
 
Wow, 41 compression locks! I’m a big fan of the compression lock as well, I’d like to see a picture of that!

I have a few of them and haven’t any problems with them. If they didn’t break in and go away I would send em in to spyderco to get fixed or sell n keep trying because when they’re good they’re great!

I don't really want to spend the afternoon unboxing mostly safe queens for a single money shot, but here are some pics I've taken in the past.





































pm2lockdown-960.jpg
 
I've owned 3 compression lock spydercos and sold 2 in the past because of lock stick. Im just onna deal with the lock stick on my most recent para 3... but im not sure what's going on, it seems that everyone online doesn't have many issues with this, but every Para 3/PM2 I touch has bad lock stick on the stop pin every time! I've owned 3, each for decent chunks of time and on each on I've had issues with lock stick not on the lock surface on the blade, but on the stop pin. Anyone have input on this? Is this normal? What's should I do?
Thanks much,
Giffayy
black-coated liner?
 
I did have compression lock stick on one knife. It was easily fixed by lightly polishing the contact surfaces. If you don’t want to void the warrant, just send it to Spyderco for an adjustment.
 
I don't really want to spend the afternoon unboxing mostly safe queens for a single money shot, but here are some pics I've taken in the past.





































pm2lockdown-960.jpg
I thought about it after the request, that would be a pain in the arse. Awesome collection!
 
My Sage had a really bad case of lock stick, tried to break it in, failed, sold it. It put me off comp locks, even though I still have a PM2 and P3 which work fine and I like them more for their steel and custom scales. I just don't want to buy any more. I would rather go for back lock, RIL, liner lock or even no lock now.
 
In my experience, compression locks have been more reliable than other Spyderco locks. I think I have 13 compression locks. Might have missed one. Never had a problem with any of them regarding the lock, unless you count the Lil Native where the blade bounces off my finger when I try to close it.

Had a Manix years ago. Almost impossible to close without using a metal implement. I gave it to a friend who repairs heavy machinery. He got it repaired after several months.

There was a Byrd Cara Cara with a back lock. To release the lock, you had to push the lock bar below the level of the scales, like with a flat blade screwdriver. There was a Rescue knife that was almost that bad, but it would close by pressing down a screwdriver shaft perpendicular to the lock bar. And several other back locks were hard to close because the spring was too strong.
 
Thabk you all for the information and replies, you all are always great with prompt and helpful replies.

-Giffayy
 
My Sage had a really bad case of lock stick, tried to break it in, failed, sold it. It put me off comp locks, even though I still have a PM2 and P3 which work fine and I like them more for their steel and custom scales. I just don't want to buy any more. I would rather go for back lock, RIL, liner lock or even no lock now.
I'll give this bad boy another few months of dry breaking-in. If I don't see any more improvement, this may be the route I take again. The delica 4, (other than nipping my finger tips,) has treated me very well
 
I had a lot of success with using a sharpie or lead pencil on th blade lock face. The lead pencil works well and I think helps to smooth the area a bit and eliminate any sticking.
 
There's a guy on YouTube and I'm sure everyone knows him ... starts with M, anyway he has a lock stick rant, end of the day, unless it's terribly aggressive, don't worry about it
 
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