Spyderco Domino aftermarket bearings

Miketbass · May 20, 2017

Hello all,

I have been battling with my Domino on and off for a long time now. I just can't seem to get centering, lock up, and smooth deployment all balanced out in a way that satisfies both the need for utility and flick-ability. I know that the consensus is to just send it back to Spyderco, but I can't help but think there may be a better way.

FWIW I have already disassembled and tinkered with this knife many times. I have tried:

1. Flushing with solvent and lubrication with Tuf-Glide, BM blue lube, frog lube, a few others too with mixed results.

2. Disassembly and light polish of blade tang with mothers mag, then re-lube

3. Flipping the pivot to help with centering. Right now the adjustable screw is on the CF side which seems to be best (forget which way is factory)

Currently I have flushed everything out and applied some moly-lithium grease which seems to work the best. The blade is still favoring the show side scale a bit and does not free fall. Has anybody changed out the bearings for something else? The stock bearing cages appear to be plastic and I can't help but wonder if some of the aftermarket bearings at USAknifemaker wouldn't help this knife out.

What do?

Mo2 · May 20, 2017

I don't have a Domino, but let's try a few things. .

Have you tried without lube at all? you may be putting too much lube on.

If that doesn't work try a tiny drop on the detent hole .

This could be an assortment of issues including lockbar tension.

As for centering, have you heard how Hinderer knives go together? If so try that way (something like fitting it together with the blade 90deg).

Could just require a certain combination of tightening the screws like some knives require. I usually tighten the rear screws a little then the pivot most of the way then the rear screws all the way then the pivot all the way (or any other combination that works).

Just trying to help, a lot of knives I have are very different, the ones that are my favorite are the ones that you take apart and put back together without issue and are perfect every time without any adjustments.

Miketbass · May 20, 2017

I have tried it dry, after being hosed out with brake cleaner and after WD40. Surprisingly the WD40 works pretty well but doesn't last as a lube. I've been using the bearing grease because it makes sense on bearing pivots, but I wonder if too much could be detrimental. Thing is, this is the best it's felt. Would bending back the lockbar to reduce tension do anything for the deployment?

marcus52AR · May 20, 2017

I too struggled with the Domino.. Southard for that matter as well.

Only fiddled with the Southard once or twice and I had to send it in to get fresh parts and a tune up. Same thing with my Domino, but I made more attempts with my Domino. I think it was because I over tightened the pivot and "dished" the washers.

Just like you said in the op, back to Colorado is the best bet.

They sent both my Domino and Southard back in superb condition.

It would be nice if one could put some pb washers in there and get Gayle Bradley/Slysz bowie like smoothness. If it can be done I haven't heard about it.

Good luck with your Domino, I love that knife!

115Italian · May 21, 2017

To much grease can slow the action down. Red bearing grease works best, just apply a light film.

When trying to center the blade-
Loosen all the screws in the knife. Pivot and body. Just loosen to the point that nothing falls out. With the blade closed, wedge a piece of folded paper between the blade and liner/ handle scale puting pressure in the direction to where you what the blade. Over compensate. Then tighten the pivot down all the way. Then tighten the body screws one by one going down the knife away from the pivot. Remove paper. Open the knife, close it. Start to loosen the pivot a little at a time until it opens smoothly. Hopefully the blade centers better.

Lapedog · May 21, 2017

There is an issue with Spydercos knives featuring bearings when overtightening the pivot. It causes the washers to dish as Marcus said. The problem was most prevalent on the Advocate model. Spyderco is doing things to remedy the problem according to Sal. I would send it in. I don't think they have come up with washers that have resolved the problem yet but they will put a new set in, make sure your knife is centred. When you get the knife back don't crank down the pivot to overtightness.

You might be able to figure out which phosphor bronze washers are the right size and get them on Alpha Knife Supply. If you do go that route be surs to tell us which size PB washers you got.

Miketbass · May 21, 2017

Alright, I took this knife down again and did another clean/lube and adjustment. A few notes-

1. The bearings look to be in good shape and have cut a nice even track on the blade and in the washers.

2. The washers are cupped towards the blade. The contact point from the bearings appears to be very small, and did not seem like a big enough deal to worry about. I contemplated flipping them over but decided to leave them as is - maybe future wear will dictate that I flip them then.

3. The grease that I have is some cheap Walmart "moly-lithium " Supertech grease. For this application I cannot see why anything fancy would be needed. I used a small amount of grease under the washers, on top and between blade and bearing. A small dollop on the detent as well.

4.I removed the lock bar insert and ever so slightly bent the bar away from the blade. Reinstalled the insert and the assembled knife unlocks easier, meaning there is also less pressure on the blade.

5. After fully taking this knife down and reassembling the centering is spot on. The thick scales and flat surfaces allow for a very precise fit. I used thread locker on the screws, but on the body screws it may be overkill. Everything went together very easily and fit snug.

The end result is a centered blade that deploys better than before. The blade will almost swing freely when the lockbar is depressed and sits nicely between the scales so it's progress. I'm looking forward to flicking this blade around more tomorrow after the thread locker has set - I think as the grease distributes and the metal to metal surfaces wear in a bit the action will improve.

The only things I may try is flipping the washers, using a lighter lube, or replacing the bearings with something else. I will report back.

marcus52AR · May 21, 2017

Congrats on your success, I've found I need very little oil on my Domino. I use fishing rod reel oil. It's very light and seems to work well.

One more tip, (I learned from personal experience) be mindful not to use too much locktite. I boogered up my bearings using too much. I think that's when I sent it in if I remember right! Haha, live and learn.

One more tip, try not to tinker too much. I think they're great knives, dont get me wrong, but they don't break down and go together like my CRK or Hinderer knives do.

Mo2 · May 21, 2017

The washers should be flat, not cupped. This is likely the problem. You over tightened the pivot it looks like (It's really easy to do apparently). Send it to Spyderco so they can replace the washers. They use really thin washers where the slightest overturn will bend them. Have to remember that they make knives and don't recommend users to service them due to issues like this.

I may be wrong but I believe that to be the issue here based on the information givin

Lapedog · May 21, 2017

Honestly I run my bearing knives with very little lube. So little lube that I'm practically running them dry. I am not sure if that will increase wear rates. Benchmade Blu-Lube works great for me.

Mo2 · May 22, 2017

Miketbass said:
Alright, I took this knife down again and did another clean/lube and adjustment. A few notes-

1. The bearings look to be in good shape and have cut a nice even track on the blade and in the washers.

2. The washers are cupped towards the blade. The contact point from the bearings appears to be very small, and did not seem like a big enough deal to worry about. I contemplated flipping them over but decided to leave them as is - maybe future wear will dictate that I flip them then.

3. The grease that I have is some cheap Walmart "moly-lithium " Supertech grease. For this application I cannot see why anything fancy would be needed. I used a small amount of grease under the washers, on top and between blade and bearing. A small dollop on the detent as well.

4.I removed the lock bar insert and ever so slightly bent the bar away from the blade. Reinstalled the insert and the assembled knife unlocks easier, meaning there is also less pressure on the blade.

5. After fully taking this knife down and reassembling the centering is spot on. The thick scales and flat surfaces allow for a very precise fit. I used thread locker on the screws, but on the body screws it may be overkill. Everything went together very easily and fit snug.

The end result is a centered blade that deploys better than before. The blade will almost swing freely when the lockbar is depressed and sits nicely between the scales so it's progress. I'm looking forward to flicking this blade around more tomorrow after the thread locker has set - I think as the grease distributes and the metal to metal surfaces wear in a bit the action will improve.

The only things I may try is flipping the washers, using a lighter lube, or replacing the bearings with something else. I will report back.

McFeeli · May 22, 2017

I run my Domino without any lube whatsoever on the bearings themselves. I may add a drop of blue lube over the detent ball and wipe it off with a small piece of cotton almost immediately.

I did send mine to Golden, though it was because when I opened it up I noticed it didn't have any washers, haha. Very strange.

I called them, explained what was up, and sent it in with the $25 they were asking for. It came back 13 days later and was unbelievably smooth. I did have to adjust the pivot until I got it right where I wanted it, but it was seriously amazing the difference from before and after.

I looked all over the Internet to try and find what size of washers it took to try and fix it myself, but to no avail. Very hard to find information on Spyderco's internals, especially concerning their ball bearing knives because of how new they are.

I'll advise you to just bite the bullet and send it in. To me it was worth the $25 and 13 day wait for a such great return. I would also say to take the clip off if you want to keep it, I didn't and they replaced mine without sending the old one back.