I would lean towards lc200n if possible. It's basically aebl on steroids with no chance of rusting.
This
H2 is at least as good/same as H1
Fooling around I took a recently made (< a year ago) H2 Spyderco Salt 2 and thinned and reprofiled the heck out of the blade ~ 1.8mm at the spine ~ 10 thou behind the edge ~12 deg per side. It held up good enough considering this is H series steel.
In other words it did not roll over cutting quadruple wall card board.
It did not break or chip (like that would happen ) this is a pretty tough steel but not particularly hard. I just looked up in Larrin's book it tops out at 60HRC or less. Don't believe all the old / past posts about work hardening from grinding to 65 hrc much of that was hearsay and or poor hardness testing technique due to angled surfaces presented to the tester's point , or some such.
In any case just ask / see Dr. Larrin Thomas's high level science investigation of the hardness / grinding etc.
If you have not read how they harden/toughen it , it is worth reading about it on Larrin's site . . . I think that is where I saw it (not in one of his books I just looked).
Rather than all the heating and quenching business other steel alloys go through they take the H series in like 6mm thickness and roll the living crap out of it , COLD, until it is about 3mm thick ! ! ! !
[ that was only four exclamation points ; still somewhat sane ]
PS : yeah , like Mk-211 posted !
Follow the link about H1 for cold rolling.
sorry . . .