Spyderco Military PE for Survival?

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Mar 2, 2003
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I EDC a Military and really love this knife, My questions are related to this knife and Survival task! I have used my Military to cut 550 Cord and Cardboard boxes and plastic. So what Survival related task have other Military users used their Knife to do? Also what is your thoughts on this knife in an actual Survival Situation?
 
Pretty crappy, the lightest battoning will slip the lock, and the handle isnt the best shape for hard cutting/sawing. the steel is one of the best and the blade shape is great but i dont like the over all package. I like my Emerson CQC-8 alot better for all uses and its cheeper than the cf version of the Military. just my 2 cents.
 
I want info from who ever has it! Anyone else please feel free to add to the discussion. I do think the Military can be used for say 1. Making Fuss Sticks, 2.Cutting Wild plants for food 3. Cutting 550 Cord for making Stuff! 4. Skinning Game to eat! 5. slicing meet off of the game you skinned 6. Making small traps . I guess what I am trying to say is, if you carry the Military for an EDC and you just so happen to get into a Survival situation, is there things you can use this knife for to help your survival. I think any knife could help out to some extent. Hell les Stroud does pretty good with just a Multi tool.
 
Of course this kife will work for all those tasks. I would not recomend batoning any folder. But for everything else it is more than able to handle those camp chores. I could think of a much worse knife to have with me in a survival situation. You just have to know what the kife is not capable of and dont abuse it, a broken knife could ruin your day. Hope that this helps you.
Wade
 
Got it.
Used it for all tasks mentioned.
Replaced it with a Manix due to more confidence in the lock and better handle ergos for me.

Rather have the Millie than try to use my teeth or a rock.

Rather have a 4-5" x 3/16" fixed-blade than any folder for my survival use in this area 'cause I always have a folding saw (unless you beat me up and steal my car, my pack, and my BOB -- but then you'd prob'ly take my knife too, you lowdown critter.).
 
The Military cuts well, will stay sharp a long time cutting woods and most materials, the chopping ability is about twice that of a Mora 2000, the one I had was able to take wrist impact batoning without functional damage though it did rapidly wear the lock.

It has a few drawbacks :

-in extreme cold the lock action can freeze up
-the point is quite thin so little leveraging ability in woods
-the handle is thin and open frame so long term ergos can be problematic

In general watch liners/integrals for accidental release which can be a concern in any hard thrusting, dynamic cutting, leveraging, and of course direct impact.


SubaruSTi said:
...the lightest battoning will slip the lock...

This is a common problem with liners and integrals in general, it doesn't have to prevent batoning though, if this is a concern with the specific knife on hand then just cut a small wedge and pin the liner lock to the side. Now when batoning use a countertorque on the handle rather than a straight push to keep the blade stable.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
... then just cut a small wedge and pin the liner lock to the side. Now when batoning use a countertorque on the handle rather than a straight push to keep the blade stable.

-Cliff


Never thought of that. Good idea, I'll have to give it a shot.
I have never had the lock on my Starmate fail (last remaining liner lock I have), even when batoned, but I don't apply any pressure to the handle, just sort of hold the knife in place with a light grip, and hit the back of the blade midpoint. I have had several other liner locks fail when in use, but not when batoned. My old CRK&T M-16 just about cost me a finger. Then they came out with the lock lock, lawk.
 
Jim Craig said:
...I don't apply any pressure to the handle, just sort of hold the knife in place with a light grip, and hit the back of the blade midpoint.

Generally, nothing locally will split under those levels of impacts, the blade simply won't move in the wood. I took thirty pieces of wood out of the pile this weekend, looking for clear wood, none of them would chop split with the GB hatchet for example and they were all small, under 4" thick.

If the wood is really small as in under 2", it might split like that, but such wood gets wet all the way through fast in the rain, plus on really small wood with a nice cutting blade I could just shave off the wet wood on one side really quickly. I'd probably baton it with something like the Fulcrum.

-Cliff
 
No soft pine on the Rock??

Only Province I've yet to see (me son).

Luckily, up here there is almost always dry wood that is not too hard to find. Even above tree line you can find good driftwood on the river banks. When I worked for the Northwest Company, our store in Tuktoyaktuk sold more chainsaws than any other. There are no trees anywhere near Tuk. And it wasn't just to cut ice...

Jim
 
If you go somewhere near people and there is pine growing, what you tend to find is small twisty wood, everything else has been long cut for lumber. All the houses one generation ago where built by the guys that live in them and made from wood they cut.

I spent last summer hauling cutting sticks and we had to cover a lot of ground to find them as they are fairly rare now. I have not even seen a piece of pine more than 12" locally in a long time, which is fine with me because that is enough to carry around. Nice wood to cut, exceptionally soft, and splits decent when straight, burns horribly though, just flash burns when seasoned.

Most wood people burn is also basically lot selection, management consists of removing the dead and damaged trees unless you are clear cutting for building, so a lot of wood piles are highly concentrated with really gnarly wood, hell to split, most don't, just use a wide face stove and well seasoned wood.

-Cliff
 
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