Spyderco RONIN Sheath problems?

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Nov 20, 2004
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I just got me a new USER Spyderco RONIN. I am wanting to use it for a SD knife.

Unfortunately I am having problems with the factory sheath :( It keeps hanging up on me when I try to put the knife back into the sheath.

But I'm sure it has to do with the Kydex material that they used in the sheath. The blade geometry and the extremely precise point sure make it a challenge for it to seat properly.

#1? Have any of you ever experienced this problem? If so are there any remedies?
 
I remember having to push the spine of the knife against the sheath for it to slide in properly. The technique you need may be different than mine, however. Just practice a few times and you'll get used to it.

Regards
 
I remember having to push the spine of the knife against the sheath for it to slide in properly. The technique you need may be different than mine, however. Just practice a few times and you'll get used to it.

Regards

I know exactly what you are talking about. I've actually tried that a couple of times but the point on this one of mine is so sharp that it just snags on everything it touches. It looks like I may be looking at a custom sheath unless one of you guys know of a modification that I am not aware of.
 
I have the same trouble with mine. you just have to insert it very carefully. I do not often carry the knife on my belt because of the sheath. It is virtually impossible to resheath without using two hands, so I just carry it in my pocket.

Great cutter, though. . .
 
hey spydo how are yah

I just bought a ronin on here, and was told by the seller that there are two sheaths to the ronin an old one and a new one. He also stated the newer one is better and holds the ronin a lot better than the old counterpart. So do you have a new sheath or an old one. hope this helps tc

aj
 
JD,

The problem is more with the Ronin's fine point than it is with the sheath, though some sheaths (customs) let you "ride the spine" better than others. Any off-axis insertion of the Ronin will cause the thin tip to contact and engage the side of the sheath. I no longer leave a Ronin with sheath out on a display table where people can fiddle with it unattended, because every time I have done so, someone will just jam the knife back in the sheath and f**k it up. Once this is done, it'll hang up easier on subsequent insertions. With any sheath for the Ronin you must ride the knife's spine down the corresponding part of the sheath and be in line with the central axis. Any contact with the sheath's side will cause the point to dig. Off-axis draws/insertions are also a cause of a lot of rub marks or scrathes attributed to kydex sheaths, but no one considers "operator error" - gotta be the sheath's fault.
 
JD,

The problem is more with the Ronin's fine point than it is with the sheath, though some sheaths (customs) let you "ride the spine" better than others. Any off-axis insertion of the Ronin will cause the thin tip to contact and engage the side of the sheath. I no longer leave a Ronin with sheath out on a display table where people can fiddle with it unattended, because every time I have done so, someone will just jam the knife back in the sheath and f**k it up. Once this is done, it'll hang up easier on subsequent insertions. With any sheath for the Ronin you must ride the knife's spine down the corresponding part of the sheath and be in line with the central axis. Any contact with the sheath's side will cause the point to dig. Off-axis draws/insertions are also a cause of a lot of rub marks or scrathes attributed to kydex sheaths, but no one considers "operator error" - gotta be the sheath's fault.

Mike I have tried that "Spine Trick" you mentioned>> and it really doesn't work much better. I will admit that I got this particular Ronin used which I didn't mind because I wanted one strictly as a USER. And I am not berating Spyderco for the sheath design either. But I will probably be going to Custom Sheath route because the way this particular sheath is it's just simply not going to work. I will probably be contacting you about one when I heal up from the holidays. thanks Mike
 
hey spydo how are yah

I just bought a ronin on here, and was told by the seller that there are two sheaths to the ronin an old one and a new one. He also stated the newer one is better and holds the ronin a lot better than the old counterpart. So do you have a new sheath or an old one. hope this helps tc

aj

Well "aj" I just had a guy who is really a RONIN freak on the Spyderco Forum last night call my attention to the fact that there were 2 different factory sheaths made for the Ronin model during it's tenure on the Spyderco line up. Evidently I am putting the dots together and I am coming to the conclusion that Spyderco themselves must have had trouble with making a perfect sheath for the Ronin. And there just might not be any simple solutions to this. I know as credible of a company as Spyderco is that they have surely tried to remedy this problem.

I have an idea and I don't know if it's feasable or not. But when I was working in a tool & Die shop once upon a time we used brass rods to do stuff to the molds because it wouldn't marr or scratch tool & die steel. With that being said I am wondering about the viability of making a Ronin sheath with with a BRASS SLEEVE. You could make it very slick to where the point would just glide over it and seat itself securely.

But still you guys I am open for all kinds of suggestions here. Mike if you want to PM me and give me a time I could call you maybe we could talk this over and come to some solution. JD
 
Hey Guys..

For some reason I haven't had this problem with my sheaths..
I've made alot of Ronin sheaths,, and haven't run across this as of yet...

I do agree with Mike though if the knife isn't put back in straight it could cause problems....

I don't think the brass sleeve would solve the problem...

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
I didn't have a need for that needle point, so I just rounded it off a bit. That helped a lot.
 
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