- Joined
- Oct 15, 2010
- Messages
- 414
I have been using Spyderco knives for about 2 years now and about 6 months ago started playing around w/ serrated edges. I cut a good amount of dirty nylon rope @ work and found that it would really dull my PE blades. I had always been a little hesitant about serrated knives,mainly because i couldn't sharpen them, but after getting a sharpmaker I thought I might give a PS Spyderco a try and see if I could cut that rope and not have to sharpen my work knife 3 times a week. I first bought a PS Endura and immediately fell in love w/ Spyderco serrations! They cut through the tough nylon rope w/ no problem but also ripped through cardboard and anything else I put in front of it. I then bought a SE Delica and it too was an awesome cutter. Next came a PS Millie that has been my work knife for the past 5 month and again the serrations rock. Just for fun I picked up a SE UKPK and it also cuts like nobody's business.
This is where the weird stuff starts happening. I liked the serrations on my PS work knife so much that I decided to get a SE millie and give it a shot @ work. I got a 440v SE Millie and although the serrations felt sharp, when I tried to cut sissal rope or 550 cord the rope would get caught up in the serrations but would not cut. Upon closer inspection the serrations appeared to be ground a little differently than what I was used to. The points appeared to be sharper and longer w/ more distance between the point and the apex of the radius of the serrations. I was pretty disappointed so I shipped the knife back and started looking for another. Yesterday I found a SE S30V Millie @ a gun show. I got it home and found that it cut a little better than the 440v Millie(it cut the sissal rope but I had to put a s@*t load of force into it) but it still didn't cut like my other serrated Spydies. The serrations on the new Millie are very similar to the 440V. I really want this knife to work so I have started working it on the sharpmaker to grind the points down so that they are the same as my other super-performing serrated Spydies. After a few hours on the SM the knife is cutting better but it still needs a lot of work. It looks to me like the distance between the points and the apex is so large that the points get caught up in the rope w/o the cutting edge making contact. I have better luck when I basically make a push cut though the rope but trying to slice through the rope is pointless.
I assume that the serrations are all hand ground and that they are all slightly different but the fact that these different looking/performing serrations were on 2 SE Millies makes me wonder. Did Spyderco use different style serrations on SE Millies? Have any of you guys noticed variations in the appearance/performance of you serrated Spydies? What is the best way to go about getting this knife in tip top shape. Hopefully you old school Spyderco guys can shed some light on my situation. Thanks
This is where the weird stuff starts happening. I liked the serrations on my PS work knife so much that I decided to get a SE millie and give it a shot @ work. I got a 440v SE Millie and although the serrations felt sharp, when I tried to cut sissal rope or 550 cord the rope would get caught up in the serrations but would not cut. Upon closer inspection the serrations appeared to be ground a little differently than what I was used to. The points appeared to be sharper and longer w/ more distance between the point and the apex of the radius of the serrations. I was pretty disappointed so I shipped the knife back and started looking for another. Yesterday I found a SE S30V Millie @ a gun show. I got it home and found that it cut a little better than the 440v Millie(it cut the sissal rope but I had to put a s@*t load of force into it) but it still didn't cut like my other serrated Spydies. The serrations on the new Millie are very similar to the 440V. I really want this knife to work so I have started working it on the sharpmaker to grind the points down so that they are the same as my other super-performing serrated Spydies. After a few hours on the SM the knife is cutting better but it still needs a lot of work. It looks to me like the distance between the points and the apex is so large that the points get caught up in the rope w/o the cutting edge making contact. I have better luck when I basically make a push cut though the rope but trying to slice through the rope is pointless.
I assume that the serrations are all hand ground and that they are all slightly different but the fact that these different looking/performing serrations were on 2 SE Millies makes me wonder. Did Spyderco use different style serrations on SE Millies? Have any of you guys noticed variations in the appearance/performance of you serrated Spydies? What is the best way to go about getting this knife in tip top shape. Hopefully you old school Spyderco guys can shed some light on my situation. Thanks
