Spyderco sharpener VS do it your self stone...

OnionPoptarts

OnionPoptarts

Joined
Aug 18, 2013
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249
I've wondered for some time why so many people prefer to use the spydie sharpener that gives you a V grind VS using a whetstone or what have you that allows you to put a convexedge on your knife. Yes using stones takes more skill and practice, but is that the only reason people go for the spydie sharpener? I personally hate factory V edges and can't wait to put a nice concave edge on them with my 6000 grit stone. Years latter and several stones latter as well, I'm able to put an edge on a knife that's actually too sharp for EDC if you know what I mean.
 
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OnionPoptarts said:
I've wondered for some time why so many people prefer to use the spydie sharpener that gives you a V grind VS using a whetstone or what have you that allows you to put a concave edge on your knife. Yes using stones takes more skill and practice, but is that the only reason people go for the spydie sharpener?
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I don't like convex edges. Harder for me to just touch up in 30 seconds like I can do with V edges. The Sharpmaker is also $50, up to $70 with the UFs and diamond stones, which is considerably cheaper than most of the quality stones I have looked at. It's also got a much shorter learning curve, I was getting hairsplitting edges in a few weeks after getting my SM. Gotten them on an arkansas stone as well but it was more time consuming and easier to mess up on. It's sorta like automatic vs manual transmission for cars. They both do the same thing but one is guided and the other is controlled by you. It's not for everyone.

OnionPoptarts said:
I personally hate factory V edges and can't wait to put a nice concave edge on them with my 6000 grit stone. Years latter and several stones latter as well, I'm able to put an edge on a knife that's actually too sharp for EDC if you know what I mean.
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Ehh, that's just you. I don't like convex on my EDC knives. And with my Sharpmaker, I was able to get scary sharp edges on them as well. Managed to slice my fingertip off one time when I sliced through a wadded up wet paper towel with my Khukuri. Didn't even feel it until I saw the blood on the blade, so the edges I get on the SM aren't too shabby at all. But if you like your stones, then by all means use them. Different people like different things.
 
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I personally prefer flat bevels and a convex (I'm pretty sure you are not putting a concave bevel on your knife) microbevel. This is achievable with a Sharpmaker.

The microbevel should be extremely small; the flat bevels should meet and you just slightly convex them.
 
I personally hate convex edges and love v grinds. To each their own, I suppose.
 
I dont like guided sharpeners. Reminds me of training wheels.

water stones are very quick, few minutes soak and about 10 seconds to hone and polish, 5-10 minutes if damage needs tp be repaired.

I used to love V grinds until I found convex is just superior for what I do.
 
I'm using sandpaper on a leather strop. Cheap and gets the job done. Touching them up is faster IME freehand then using a guide but then again I've practiced that skill.
 
I could never learn to put a sharp edge on manually with a stone. The Sharpmaker gets them very sharp, very quickly.

Some folks drive an automatic, and some folks drive a stick shift.
 
For EDC purpose, I don't require hair popping sharp edges, but a raspy/toothy (slightly) edge works best. I started with a Sharpmaker when I was learning the skills, but now use freehand sharpening. Nothing good or bad, just preference I'd say.
 
I use a bended method for sharpening my knives, especially when dealing with damage. I will use a flat/whetstone to get my basic profile down (and remove damage) and from there I go to my SM for a medium sharp edge, and then to my lansky crock stick system (which for some reason provides a much sharper edge than my SM ever could) and then finally to the leather strop with some flitz on it. I guess it all depends on where you are comfortable getting the sharpest edge. If you can get it on a flat stone and get a razor sharp convex edge thats awesome! If you use a crock stick system and get a very sharp v grind then kudos to you, it's all about where you're comfortable getting an edge that you are comfortable working with day to day.
 
Hi Onionpoptarts,

The sharpmaker is fast, effective and educational. If you are going to be an "Knife Afi" (aficianado), then you'll want to learn to sharpen freehand as part of your graduate work.

sal
 
No doubt you can make a knife really sharp with the spydie sharp maker, not doubting that at all. I don't think times a factor, I think I'd take more time to use the sharp maker then to use a stone. Once your familiar with the stone it's just a nice fluid motion. This goes back to what I was asking, is it all just a lack of skill that draws people to the sharp maker?

Id also like to add that for the same price as the sharp maker you can get some good stones.

I don't know if its a matter of opinion or fact that convex edges take longer to "touch up". On paper the convex edge should hold its edge longer, and when I think about touching up an edge I think about a leather strop, and in that case V grind or convex is gonna take the same amount of time.
 
Hope I'm not coming off as if I'm not trying to bash on the spydie sharpener at all. This whole question came about because my friend insist that people like the spydie sharpener so much because it gives you the same kind of edge on your knife as when you first get it. Where as I've always thought people used it because they didn't know how to use stones.
 
I think that knife sharpening seems like one of the mystic old man on top of a mountain takes your knives and returns with sharp ones kind of thing. The initial learning curve can be steep, due, in no small part, to the wide array of knife sharpening stones/sets/guides/powered systems/hones/strops/etc. that are available. This gets even more confusing when one guy who sharpens on the bottom of coffee mugs and bricks and claims that that is all he needs, while another person takes knives to 30,000 grit Shapton stones and can whittle hair, and then a third person suggest that using an Edge Pro is the best solution, and yet a fourth person suggest that they purchase a Sharpmaker...and so on.

The vast majority of people come into the "knife" hobby without sharpening skills (me included!) and gradually pick up some skills over time. Personally, even though I no longer use the Sharpmaker, I still free hand on the rods for touch ups because the grit size and type is useful for the way that I sharpen knives. I don't always feel like breaking out full sized waterstones to sharpen a knife, and sometimes stropping isn't quite enough to bring an edge back.

It is a good system that does teach the ideas of the fundamentals to people, and it is quite portable and capable of being used "dry" and without water or oil. Like all systems, it has its advantages and disadvantages. For the more advanced knife sharpener the Sharpmaker may not be quite as versatile (especially in regards to range of grit sizes) as they may want.
 
The SM was just an easy route for me to start with. Without the bigger chance of human error! I have since learned how to sharpen by hand with the stones. I seem to like the hand sharpening better, and have bought a dmt coarse/fine stone so I can re profile, and repair edges easier. I will continue to use the sharpmaker rods for now, and just get the spyderco bench stones soon. I still would recommend the sharpmaker to anyone who is first starting out with sharpening. Just overall ease of use and price make it an affordable starter kit IMHO.
 
The SM as it comes is a great way to sharpen everything I own. I added the ultra fine rods which I really like for finishing. To be honest, although I would like to learn how to freehand, I just don't have the time or resources.
 
The SM is my favorite in the kitchen, it puts a good edge on my kitchen knives very quickly. It also can sharpen scissors, which also comes in handy. I find scissors to be very difficult to sharpen freehand. No muss, no fuss, no need to soak stones or any of that. Great system!
 
I'd LOVE to see the Sharpmaker modified slightly with an extra set of 20 degree holes. I'd use those for the back-bevel for finer, smaller knives, and the 30 for the primary edge. Keep the existing set-up for the heaviere duty blades.

I don't ever see myself possessing the coordination needed for good free-hand/stone skills, LOL.
 
IMO, the Spyderco system removes much less steel during sharpening than most freehand. Eventually it will need a rebeveling but in the mean time it's a great, effecient way to go.

I've free hand sharpened for 45 or so years and have tried most everything except Wicked edge and paper wheels. I stick to freehand and a light touch when possible yet I find guided systems valuable for recurves and other shapes now and again.
 
Sal Glesser said:
Hi Onionpoptarts,

The sharpmaker is fast, effective and educational. If you are going to be an "Knife Afi" (aficianado), then you'll want to learn to sharpen freehand as part of your graduate work.

sal
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Still waiting for a adjustable sharpmaker or a new improved version ;-)
 
OnionPoptarts said:
I've wondered for some time why so many people prefer to use the spydie sharpener that gives you a V grind VS using a whetstone or what have you that allows you to put a convexedge on your knife. Yes using stones takes more skill and practice, but is that the only reason people go for the spydie sharpener? I personally hate factory V edges and can't wait to put a nice concave edge on them with my 6000 grit stone. Years latter and several stones latter as well, I'm able to put an edge on a knife that's actually too sharp for EDC if you know what I mean.
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I prefer sharpening with flat stones, but I also prefer to keep my edges V shaped, or at least as close to V shaped as my ability to hold a constant angle allows, rather than intentionally making them convex. IMHO, convex is fine for chopping tools, and for certain applications where edge strength is more important than slicing ability, but I rarely have the need or the desire to do either with a pocket knife. I do own a Sharpmaker, but the only knives I'll use it on are either serrated, hawkbill, reverse S, or some combination of those.

As for your last observation, no, I have no idea what you mean. I can't honestly imagine a knife ever being "too sharp for EDC". Too dull, absolutely. To thick behind the edge to be an effective cutter, definitely. Too thick to be anything but a sharpened prybar, heck yes. Too sharp, no way.
 
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