Spyderco Sharpmaker OR Work sharp

[bigboy2011]

Which one is better for an Esee-5? I've heard really good reviews about both, But heard that sharpmaker is slow if your knife is dull and the work sharp can round your tip but thats ok

 

[TriviaMonster]

These are just two very different ways to attain a sharp knife. For me, its no question, I am a stone kind of guy. I say sharp maker. It can take some time to do any serious work without the diamond rods, but it is a well known sharpening system for a reason.

The work sharp is cool, I just prefer a more old fashioned approach. To each his own.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

These two options are sort of at opposite ends of the sharpening spectrum. At one end of the spectrum, the Worksharp, or any powered sharpener, can put a completely new edge on a very dull knife, very fast (and also remove a lot of metal very fast, and in unskilled hands, potentially ruin a blade very fast). At the other end of the spectrum, the Sharpmaker will do a great job in maintaining an already-decent edge (while not removing a lot of metal very fast). Either one is fine for what it's designed to do. But, they're each designed to do very different tasks. For most people, the light maintenance end of the spectrum is where most work will be done. For someone just starting out with a brand new knife, light maintenance should be most or all of what you'll need, at least for a while. If the light maintenance is kept up, and the edge not allowed to get very dull in the first place, most people could avoid having to use the heavy metal-removing tools much at all. And, even if the light maintenance isn't quite getting it done, I'd still take baby steps in the slightly-more-aggressive direction, as opposed to taking the huge leap to the other end.

What I'm saying is, you might want to look into some of the 'in between' options for sharpening too, like a set of stones in gradually-changing grit steps, or something simple and inexpensive like a range of grits of wet/dry sandpaper. The Worksharp does have a range of belts available. But, it's still a powered tool which grinds off metal a lot faster, and also raises potential over-heating issues for the steel, if used carelessly. So, you need to be careful with it. Especially if you've never done any sharpening before. If I were just starting out, I'd focus on learning basic technique on an un-powered sharpening tool first, so you get a feel for how the abrasive works, and also develop some skills for maintaining a steady angle and pressure. Trying to 'learn' these things on a powered tool, with a brand new knife, can be costly.

(Edit: Another thing to consider with a powered tool is the dust generated. All that cutting speed will also kick up a lot of metal dust, in a hurry. Not just messy, but you'll need to consider breathing protection, to keep that dust out of your lungs.)

I'm not knocking any of the powered tools. They serve a very useful purpose. Just want to be sure you know what the potential risks are, before you dive into it. Good luck.

 

[TriviaMonster]

Don't forget, there is always a third option, a decent water stone or two for free hand can be very fun and easy with some knives like warncliffs and scandi grinds like mora's. Or a fourth option, an edge pro apex with choseras. The last is my preference, but skilled hands like obsessed with edges and a couple good water stones embarrass me easily.

 

[bigboy2011]

Yes, I have learned how to use stones. I have a razor edge on my Esee-5 using a cheap stone and a coffee mug. But i need something fast when i'm not ready for something and just give it a very fast edge for work

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Yes, I have learned how to use stones. I have a razor edge on my Esee-5 using a cheap stone and a coffee mug. But i need something fast when i'm not ready for something and just give it a very fast edge for work

A coarse/fine diamond hone, such as from DMT, is perfect for this. Either a Dia-Fold (blue/red combo) or one of the 'credit card' hones in coarse, fine, or EF, from DMT are perfect for fast working edges on the go. And they're both 'pocketable' too, so you can even take them with you.

 

[paper hat]

worksharp is great for convex. hard to do that with stones,

 

[cziv]

Yes, I have learned how to use stones. I have a razor edge on my Esee-5 using a cheap stone and a coffee mug. But i need something fast when i'm not ready for something and just give it a very fast edge for work

There's one that I consider best for a compact solution that you can carry in you pocket or somewhere else. It will take a sharp knife and bring it to life instantly - maybe 10 light passes per side. Size of blade is not a consideration either.

If I was headed into the woods for a camping trip and just wanted to tune up or give me a quick working edge, I'd use the coarse & fine. I sharpen freehand too but I still use some of my dia-folds when I'm in a hurry and want a more polished edge (x-fine & xx-fine) or a toothier working edge (coarse & fine).

There are other grits available according to what your intentions might be. DMT Dia-fold, don't leave home without it!!

[video=youtube;244nwE6EHCI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=244nwE6EHCI[/video]

The two I recommended:

[video=youtube;YMWzzg0BjEw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMWzzg0BjEw[/video]

 

[bigboy2011]

There's one that I consider best for a compact solution that you can carry in you pocket or somewhere else. It will take a sharp knife and bring it to life instantly - maybe 10 light passes per side. Size of blade is not a consideration either.

If I was headed into the woods for a camping trip and just wanted to tune up or give me a quick working edge, I'd use the coarse & fine. I sharpen freehand too but I still use some of my dia-folds when I'm in a hurry and want a more polished edge (x-fine & xx-fine) or a toothier working edge (coarse & fine).

There are other grits available according to what your intentions might be. DMT Dia-fold, don't leave home without it!!

[video=youtube;244nwE6EHCI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=244nwE6EHCI[/video]

The two I recommended:

[video=youeo]

Do they take off a lot of metal while sharpening?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Do they take off a lot of metal while sharpening?

They can. But if used smartly, that's a good thing. Their advantage is in the ability to restore an edge quickly, even if the knife is pretty dull. The blue/red Dia-Fold (coarse/fine) really excels at this. They remove metal fast enough, it's a good idea to check the edge after each pass, to see how much progress you've made. Unless you're completely re-bevelling an edge, it usually only takes a few passes on each side, to get your edge back in shape. And either of the Coarse or Fine sides of this hone will leave an excellent toothy edge. Maintain enough pressure to keep the bevel flush to the hone, but don't bear down on it. No need for heavy 'scrubbing' on an edge. That'll take too much metal off, and won't likely help the edge either. Using light pressure will also protect the diamond from being scrubbed off the nickel substrate. They last much longer this way.

 

[bigboy2011]

They can. But if used smartly, that's a good thing. Their advantage is in the ability to restore an edge quickly, even if the knife is pretty dull. The blue/red Dia-Fold (coarse/fine) really excels at this. They remove metal fast enough, it's a good idea to check the edge after each pass, to see how much progress you've made. Unless you're completely re-bevelling an edge, it usually only takes a few passes on each side, to get your edge back in shape. And either of the Coarse or Fine sides of this hone will leave an excellent toothy edge. Maintain enough pressure to keep the bevel flush to the hone, but don't bear down on it. No need for heavy 'scrubbing' on an edge. That'll take too much metal off, and won't likely help the edge either. Using light pressure will also protect the diamond from being scrubbed off the nickel substrate. They last much longer this way.

So just a few passes and it will be sharp? Even after heavy use slashing wood and stuff?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

So just a few passes and it will be sharp? Even after heavy use slashing wood and stuff?

Make sure to check progress as you go. That's the only way to know if it's sharp again. Test the edge as you ordinarily would, by slicing paper, cutting into cardboard, wood, whatever. I wouldn't make too many passes on the hone at a time, before checking. Whatever shape the edge is in after 'hard use' and 'slashing wood' is very much dependant on individual circumstances (what 'hard use' actually means, which is highly variable, depending on whom you ask), blade steel, and what kind of shape the edge was in initially. Assuming a carbon steel blade, the diamond will remove the steel very fast.