Spyderco Sharpmaker question and/or help

[Taonari]

I ordered a Spyderco Sharpmaker. It arrives today and I had a couple questions. I bought the sharpener because I was impressed with how easy it is for most people to sharpen knives while having little skill and I know that the sharpener will sharpen 30 and 40 degree edges with its built in angles. I also understand that the edge on knives may be different than the 30 or 40 degree angles the Sharpmaker is preset for. Most of my knives are Spydercos (Paramilitary 2, Sage 1, Manix 2, Endura, Delica) and I have a few Kershaws (Skyline, Chill, Scallion, Leek, Blur) and Benchmades (551, 556). Are most of these models ground at 30 or 40 degrees or would I need to pick up a set of the diamond rods to take off enough steel to change the angle on any that are too steep or too shallow?

I am a complete noob when it comes to sharpening and would appreciate any help. Thanks in advance!

 

[kriller1217]

I also just recently purchased and started usig the sharpmaker. I cannot comment on most of your knives, but it put a razor sharp edge on my leek, oso sweet, and ambitious. All I
did was follow the steps on the video, starting with the brow rods exactly how they did. My first time it took a little bit as I had to get used to the pressure and stuff.

Oh and I also bought the ultra fine rods, not sure if that makes a huge difference though.
Edit: I used the 40 degree angle for all of them

 

[Taonari]

Thanks for the reply. It sounds as though that the knives you sharpened must have been pretty close to the 40 degree angle then. Did you have to make many passes with the coarse (brown) rods?

 

[HuntBomb]

You can compensate for the angle difference once you get used to the system.
The diamond rods are very useful for reprofiling as well.

 

[rycen]

Use a sharpie to color the edge to see what angle is best for each knife.

 

[Taonari]

Use a sharpie to color the edge to see what angle is best for each knife.

Thanks for the tip. I'll be sure to try that.

 

[Taonari]

You can compensate for the angle difference once you get used to the system.
The diamond rods are very useful for reprofiling as well.

I think the diamond rods are a good investment anyway, especially if I end up sharpening one of my older, dull slipjoints and other folders.

 

[Komitadjie]

Hint for you: If you've only got a couple knives that need re-profiling, go snag some silicon carbide wet-or-dry sandpaper (the black stuff at the auto store) and use binder clips to hold a slice of that around your medium rods. It folds around them nicely, and boosts the grit up to something useful for re-profiling without the investment in the diamond rods. You can drop right down to 220 or so if you want to get it done right now, then step up a few times to 400 or so to make a nicer finish before you go to the actual ceramic rods.

 

[Taonari]

I just got the Sharpmaker in the mail. Opened it up, watched the video and grabbed by Manix 2, which won't cut paper anymore. Tried the 40 degree angle and even though it feels sharp to my thumb, I can't get it sharp enough to cut paper. I held the knife straight up and down. I think I need some practice. I went through all 4 steps twice.

 

[Komitadjie]

Practice, practice, and a very light touch. Also, use the marker trick to make sure you're hitting at the edge. The Sharpmaker won't create an edge as good as my Chosera-equipped EdgePro, but the edge off of it will easily shave arm hair and smoothly cut paper. The emphasis on a LIGHT touch and a whole lot of strokes can't be over-emphasized, it's very important.

 

[kriller1217]

Try all the steps for 30 degrees, then go back and do the steps for 40 degrees. It took me a couple tries the first time, but I ended up getting the hang of it. Now I have no issues
Putting a good edge on any knife I own.

 

[Taonari]

Try all the steps for 30 degrees, then go back and do the steps for 40 degrees. It took me a couple tries the first time, but I ended up getting the hang of it. Now I have no issues
Putting a good edge on any knife I own.

By doing the steps for 30 degrees and then on to 40 degrees did that remove the shoulder on the edge or reprofile it?

 

[Taonari]

Practice, practice, and a very light touch. Also, use the marker trick to make sure you're hitting at the edge. The Sharpmaker won't create an edge as good as my Chosera-equipped EdgePro, but the edge off of it will easily shave arm hair and smoothly cut paper. The emphasis on a LIGHT touch and a whole lot of strokes can't be over-emphasized, it's very important.

I went a lot slower and lightened the pressure a bit on the blade. I grabbed a dull Victorinox Tinker. It is shaving sharp now and can't quite cut paper consistently, but I think more time on the fine rods will fix that.

 

[kriller1217]

It removed the shoulder on mine. I don't feel like 20 strokes a side on the med/fine rods will do any reprofiling. It got the edge to take the 40 deg very nicely.

 

[Razorsharp-Travis]

Spyderco aims for their back bevels to be 30 degrees so all you need for them is to do micro bevels til it needs reprofiling

 

[Taonari]

It removed the shoulder on mine. I don't feel like 20 strokes a side on the med/fine rods will do any reprofiling. It got the edge to take the 40 deg very nicely.

I'll give that a shot tonight. I'll run through 30 deg steps, then 40 deg steps and go slow and light.

 

[IUKE12]

You really need to follow the sage advice in post #5 by rycen. Sharpie the edge to see what's going on and correct accordingly.

 

[Taonari]

You really need to follow the sage advice in post #5 by rycen. Sharpie the edge to see what's going on and correct accordingly.

That really seems like the best way to do it. I am going to grab my Sharpie and after marking it run through the 30 degree steps and see where it is hitting and then move over to 40 degree if needed.

 

[Taonari]

I took a closer look at my Manix 2 (hollow grind) and marked the edge with my Sharpie. At 40 degrees the marking comes off the edge, but upon closer examination it appears that very little if any edge is forming. I believe I am going to have to do a little reprofiling still of the blades's angle to get it close to the Sharpmaker's 40 degree setting. I am going to order the diamond stones this Friday and give that a try. I can get a nice burr on the edge after more than 100 passes on the corners of the medium stones, but I cannot hone it enough so that it will cut paper. I think I am just wearing down a thick shoulder slightly above the edge.