Spyderco Sharpmaker quetions

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I'm not looking to purchase one I'm just curious about the "triangle"

Does using the pointy section cut the steel faster?

I've heard another forum member here on the past talk about

"High pressure bevel setting"

What is that? Advantages? Is it the fastest way to sharpen? (with the respective grit of course)
 
I'm not looking to purchase one I'm just curious about the "triangle"

Does using the pointy section cut the steel faster?

I've heard another forum member here on the past talk about

"High pressure bevel setting"

What is that? Advantages? Is it the fastest way to sharpen? (with the respective grit of course)

As it pertains to the Sharpmaker and it's ceramic rods, I'd say, "It CAN, but it's no guarantee."

The 'pointy' corners will focus pressure on the edge; that's both a good and a bad thing. It can be a good thing, in the sense that the focused pressure can remove metal a little quicker, because the grit digs deeper. But also a bad thing, because with ceramics especially, more pressure also greatly increases the risk of edge damage by rolling or chipping. There's another drawback with heavy-pressure grinding on the ceramic rods, in that the very narrow 'strip' of contact on the hone's edge will load up with swarf very, very quickly; that'll negate any speed advantage after only a few passes, as the rod becomes so clogged it can't work anymore.

Fast bevel setting is much better done on an appropriately coarse stone; and more so if the stone is relatively large, which spreads the workload and reduces the likelihood of clogging as well. The Sharpmaker's ceramic rods aren't coarse enough, aggressive enough, or large enough to make a significant difference in speed simply by increasing grinding pressure. Doing so will likely be counterproductive in the end.

BTW, the triangular shape of the SM's rods is aimed more for use on serrations, as opposed to creating a significant speed advantage in bevel setting.


David
 
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Interesting, any advantages are cancelled out by clogging.

I suppose even with diamonds it would work at the cost of the stone wearing out faster eh?
 
I'm just thinking out loud in here... the corners can be faster in removing steel (the manual says to use the corners first, then use the flats). I think the risk here is that it's pretty much a point against the blade, it's possible to get an erratic / not straight edge. Using the flats help ensure the bevel is flat and the resulting edge is straight and not erratic / wavy.
 
Interesting, any advantages are cancelled out by clogging.

I suppose even with diamonds it would work at the cost of the stone wearing out faster eh?

Maybe. But if the diamond rods are also used with lighter pressure, they should still last a while; that's sort of the cardinal rule with diamond hones in general. The main drawback for the SM's rods is still the very small contact area, which forces the limited amount of abrasive to do a lot more work, as compared to doing the same with a larger stone.


David
 
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After seeing JDavis882 do it, I've been using ONLY the flats for a long time now. They work great and you can achieve some decent speed using the "scrub" that JDavis shows in his video. I use the corners only for recurves and serrations now. Here's the relevant video in case you haven't seen it:

[video=youtube;-MHe_8wTHmg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MHe_8wTHmg[/video]

Brian.
 
After seeing JDavis882 do it, I've been using ONLY the flats for a long time now. They work great and you can achieve some decent speed using the "scrub" that JDavis shows in his video. I use the corners only for recurves and serrations now. Here's the relevant video in case you haven't seen it:

[youtube]-MHe_8wTHmg[/youtube]

Brian.

I use the corner only to sharpen the notch I created to facilitate sharpening like what Unit advice long time ago. His video for those wondering why and some who believe sharpening choil snags:
[youtube]VMvE-b4259A[/youtube]
 
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