Spyderco Sharpmaker

Dopic1

Irredeemable wood purveyor
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I know this question has been asked and answered before but I searched and couldn't find anything so I'll apologize for my ignorance in advance. I recently picked up a Sharpmaker, watched the DVD several times, read the book and played with it numerous times. But just cant get the "razor edge" they describe in the video. I've read good reviews on the Sharpmaker but seriously thinking of selling it.

I currently use a 72 belt grinder with a fine 3M Trizact belt, then polish the burr on a charged cloth wheel and have pretty good and consistent results. I was looking for the extra little edge but haven't had any luck. Is there that much of a learning curve or am I missing something?
 
The sharpmaker is good for helping a person hold a consistent angle. If you can get good results with other methods, including a charged cloth wheel, you might have a hard time equaling that with a sharpmaker.
The biggest problem that most people seem to have with the sharpmaker is trying to change the bevel angle on a knife so they can reach the apex of the edge. This will take a long time with the gray medium rods, and you need a felt tip marker and magnifier to really tell if you are close to the edge or not. You are probably beyond this point. I think the sharpmaker with the ultra fine rods will create a good edge, but not better than what you can get with some good stropping.
 
I know this question has been asked and answered before but I searched and couldn't find anything so I'll apologize for my ignorance in advance. I recently picked up a Sharpmaker, watched the DVD several times, read the book and played with it numerous times. But just cant get the "razor edge" they describe in the video. I've read good reviews on the Sharpmaker but seriously thinking of selling it.

I currently use a 72 belt grinder with a fine 3M Trizact belt, then polish the burr on a charged cloth wheel and have pretty good and consistent results. I was looking for the extra little edge but haven't had any luck. Is there that much of a learning curve or am I missing something?

Might instead replace the cloth wheel polishing with the Sharpmaker, straight from the fine belt. It may be that the apex is being rounded off somewhat on the cloth wheel, making it a little more difficult for the SM to quickly bring back the 'bite'. So long as the blade's edge geometry fits within the limits of the SM (15-20°/side, or lower), it should handle the refining after the fine belt easily. This might be a good direct comparison anyway, to see how the SM (with some patient practice*) and the cloth wheel affect your finished edges.

* = I'm finding the SM is hard to beat for quickly putting some bite into a very thin/refined edge. The lighter the touch and the more consistent the held angle becomes, the better the results will be. There's definitely a learning curve in using it, which is why it's good to give it time for practice.


David
 
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As always, check your edge with a sharpie on the edge bevel and see if the sharpmaker is removing the sharpie mark all the way to the cutting edge. If it's not, your angle is larger than the sharpmaker angle and it won't work without lowering the edge angle.

As long as the blade isn't too dull *and* it's under 20 degrees per side, the SM will give you a very sharp edge, even right off of the gray medium rods. Finishing up with light back and forth strokes really seems to make a difference.

Good luck!

Brian.
 
Thanks guys, I give it some practice and work on getting the edge angle correct so it the SM will work. I didn't think about the sharpie idea to check the apex.
 
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