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spyderco sharpmaker
- Thread starter elimcbee
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 3,148
Bear down harder than you would think necessary. I have used the hell out a sharpmaker. Most people need to put a little more "ass" into it.
Also, I use the "V" edge more than the flat edge.
Also, I use the "V" edge more than the flat edge.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2005
- Messages
- 4,527
Have you watched the DVD that comes with it? Please describe what you are doing first so we can fine tune if needed. Are you trying to just touch up a blade or is it really dull- patience is needed if dull and you are not using the diamond stones (I've heard, I only have the ceramic).
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2008
- Messages
- 10,394
I haven't found that to be the case, especially with the white or UF rods. The brown rods you can put pressure on, but I doubt it will make it go faster.
The thing to remember is the Sharpmaker is excellent for maintaining your edge, not restoring it. If you need to restore it pick up some diamond rods and a season of I Love Lucy.
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2006
- Messages
- 1,347
Follow the video. If you are not getting a sharp edge, if that's what you mean by not getting the hang of it, make sure that you are sharpening with the same angle that you used on the Edgepro. Check with a sharpie marker to confirm the angle. You have two good sharpening methods. I find that I don't need much pressure on the rods to get the edge I require. Practice and you should be pleased with the sharpmaker.
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2008
- Messages
- 1,647
I had the same problems at first and experimented with a Benchmade folder (D2 steel) until I had results. I am at that stage where I can (not easily though) shave but certainly not whittling hair but results are not bad. What I found out and I bet this is different from steel to steel, first you have to "brake the rods in" and I did this with the diamond rods. If you don't have a 30 or 40 degr Edge you should use the diamond rods to get to the angle, otherwise it's going to take forever (but even then ...). Once you created a burr on "both" sides of the edge, go to the brown rods. Now I finally got results on the brown rods only when I used much more pressure than I thought I should. But be careful, don't overstress the edge of the knife on the edge of the rods. You can create quite a force on a small surface like that. I was able to (somewhat) shave after maybe 20-40 strokes on the browns. However, when I felt the edge with my fingers after, it seemed that one side had more bite than the other? Not sure if I had not removed a burr completely? Did I maybe "bent" the edge to one side? If yes, and that with D2 steel, I am going to dump this sharpmaker! Will post that question on the forum.
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2010
- Messages
- 643
I just watched the video. Sal makes it look easier than it really is, especially when sharpening an axe! You would have to have a lot of patience to sharpen an axe with this!
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2009
- Messages
- 1,421
Hi,
Seeing as how you have the EdgePro at home, set your default angles to something slightly lower than the Sharpmaker. So for example, if you like 30 degrees inclusive edges, set the EdgePro to 13 or 14 degrees on each side. Then you end up with an edge that will take a quick and very slight micro bevel on the Sharpmaker on the 15 degree setting. So any time you need to touch up the edge, a few alternating swipes on the whites will give you a new edge. Don't use too much force or you'll end up creating a burr instead of a clean micro bevel.
Sharpmaker is a good edge maintaining device. But you can use it to create a brand new edge too. I know the video and and the manual talks about how many alternating swipes per stone, etc. but that's mostly for folks that have little understanding of sharpening.
The trick is basically this. Assuming the knife in question is still somewhat sharp, first make sure the angles are correct. Use whatever angle is less than the bevel that's on the knife. Start on the medium (brown) rods, working on one side only. I don't use the corners unless the edge is serrated. Keep at it while checking for a burr to form on the opposite side.
When you get a burr to form along the entire edge, switch to the other side and apply the same number of strokes as the other side to keep your bevel even. Then start doing alternating sets, reducing the number of strokes per side and the amount of pressure you're using. You're now flipping the burr back and forth while reducing the size and thickness. Finish on the medium rods with a couple alternating single swipes.
By now, the burr should be very thin and fragile or depending on the steel, it may be gone entirely. If the burr is still hanging on, run the edge through a soft material to knock the burr off. Soft plastic (the base of the Sharpmaker) or a piece of wood will work. If the burr is too thick and sturdy to knock off, it needs a little more work on the medium rods.
Switch to the fine rods, again using the flats. With minimal pressure, do alternating sets (6, 4, 2, 1) to polish the edge. Now the goal is to refine the edge w/o creating a new burr. You should end with a couple of alternating single swipes with barely any pressure at all.
If there's a new burr, flip it back and forth a few times, knock it off and go back to the fine rods again using even fewer strokes and pressure.
If you're reprofiling or creating a new bevel, then you need to create a reasonable edge before going to the medium rods. Alternating sets of swipes on the diamond rods or sandpaper wrapped rods will create that bevel for you. It's important to keep the number same on each side and check the edge often to prevent premature wear. When you're sure both sides are coming together all along the edge, go to the medium rod and do the steps above.
The exact amount of pressure and number of strokes are different for different angles, steel type, and knife so you need to experiment a bit.
Hope this helps.
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